RavenousLegs

Why I chose Adventure Travel as a way to Healthy Lifestyle and Wellbeing

6/7/2020

Thrill is the first emotion that gets reflected from the word “Adventure” and the crave for adrenaline rush makes us undertake these risky activities. For the ones who have once relished the taste of adventure, it is difficult to not crave for it again. My first ever innocent experience with outdoor adventure was a high-altitude trek in the Himalayas at the age of 16 and it left me wanting to come back once again. 13 years later, I returned as an adult for another trek, just to recollect the feelings I had associated with adventure. This time I was capable of absorbing more than just the thrill and I came back with a greed to experience the untouched beauty of nature over and over again! My curiosity and greed for the beauty of our planet kept growing on my mind and I started scuba diving to venture into the oceans as well. I was traveling around the world and Adventure Travel became an integral part of my life leading to the inception of RavenousLegs. Even before I realised, my curiosity and greed had became an addiction, for all the right reasons!
The benefits of Adventure Travel are several and I'm glad that it turned out to be my way to a healthy lifestyle and overall wellbeing.

Adventure Travel as way to healthy lifestyle and wellbeing

1. Adventure Travel for Physical Wellbeing

A healthy body is the first step towards our wellbeing, and the way our generation has started taking this as a priority is quite impressive. A lot of importance has also been given to Women’s Health, which requires special attention. I’ve always considered health as my first priority in life and by adding Adventure Travel to my lifestyle, I didn’t have to make any extra effort to keep my body healthy.

Adventure Travel for physical wellbeing

Physical fitness for outdoor adventures

The challenging expeditions in the mountains I kept progressing towards, needed dedicated physical training for at least a couple of months before the trek. Building stamina, strength and endurance became a regular affair, as I needed to keep getting better for the tougher challenges. During every expedition, the amount of physical exertion that my body goes through keeps me fairly fit for the rest of the time I spend in the cities with moderate workout routines. Scuba diving is also a demanding activity, the body requires a lot of energy to navigate through the water below the surface. A weeklong scuba diving trip keeps my fitness level in check!

Yoga in the Himalayas

Healthy diet & eating habits

As a part of my fitness preparation before the adventure, I keep a complete control on my diet. Even on the adventures, the local food offered at the remote destinations is generally fresh and healthy. Coming back home with a fitter body only motivates me to continue eating healthy. I introduced low-carb diet and intermittent fasting to my daily routines. Healthy diet is all about regular eating habits and has nothing to do with one time efforts of starving.

Low carb healthy diet

2. Adventure Travel for Mental Wellbeing

A physically fit body seeks a healthy mind. Physical wellbeing is completely interconnected with mental wellbeing. Adventure Travel came into my life with the benefits I had never thought through before taking that plunge.

Boosting confidence, overcoming fears

Getting out of the comfort zone is the first step towards overcoming fears. I've invariably put my body and mind under all kinds of risks and come out as a stronger person.

Shivering on a 83 meters high bridge for a bungee jump in Rishikesh.
Gasping for breath at the height of 6461 meters on the summit of Mera Peak in the Himalayas.
Paddling my way through the crashing waves and being flipped off the raft in the ice cold water of Himalayan rivers.
Rappelling through the gushing waterfalls in Sahyadri mountains in the monsoons.
Diving with the under currents at the depth of 40 meters in the mysterious oceans in Maldives.
Falling into a frozen river in -10 degrees and being rescued on Chadar Trek in Ladakh.

I've had it all! I realised adventure is a mind game, the stronger I prepared myself mentally for any of the adventures, the easier it was for me to get through. Adventures helped me overcome my fears and I went to the extent of quitting my job to pursue my passions. It has been tough for sure, but, it boosted me to be a more confident person than ever.

Bungee jumping in Rishikesh - Boosting confidence, overcoming fears

Building resilience & flexibility

Learning to be flexible was tough in the cities where we are constantly pushed towards perfection. It is really tough to break the shackles of social conditioning that we have grown up with. Intellectual plans followed by correct output kept driving me aggressively towards success. But when I exposed myself to the grandeur of nature, and came face to face with its power, I learnt flexibility, I learnt to let go.
On my trek to Kashmir Great Lakes, the weather turned bad and we were forced to return after trekking for 2 days. A week long trek was cut short to 4 days and we had to make alternate arrangements for the rest of the days. I happily returned next year to complete the trek as it is one of the most beautiful treks in India. I've had many such failed expeditions due to unpredictable weather, but the best part about is that, however frustrating it sounded, I didn't consider these experiences as failures, as it was actually a win for me. I had learnt to cope up with setbacks and developed a resilient mindset.

Kashmir Great Lakes trek

Digital detox

Being trapped in a world where all my jobs required me to be in front of the screen all the time, I had started hating the virtual world. I loved my adventure trips in remote places where I could get away being completely disconnected from my gadgets (except for my camera, of course). Adventure Travel helped me keep connected with the real world.

Digital detox in the Himalayas

Social connect

When most of the social connects were shifting towards social media chats and updates, I am glad I could make real connects with people through adventures. When you are cutoff from the rest of the world digitally as well as physically, when you are surviving with bare essentials, you end up making more meaningful connects with the people around you. Expeditions are considered to be successful only when every member of the team returns safe. Even those temporary connects become so meaningful.

Social connect during trekking expeditions

Continued learning & personal growth

With all the adventures I progressed with (Trekking, Scuba Diving & Paragliding) I ended up relearning the concepts of physics, this time practically. There's a lot of technical training that goes behind the the scenes before jumping in the oceans or flying off the hills. I ended up learning more about human body, different regions, cultures, weather behaviour, diversity, people, environment, conservation, photography, blogging, digital marketing and the list is endless.. There's nothing more fascinating to a human mind than learning newer things in the world.

Take off for paragliding

3. Adventure Travel for Spiritual Wellbeing

While I was trying to strike a balance between my body and mind with an intention to remain healthy for my entire lifetime, I got pulled into a soul-searching journey without my realisation. I had started observing more and questioning everything around me. I realised I was evolving and it felt addictive.

Self awareness & acceptance

When I was disconnected from all the distractions of the world, and kept walking up the mountains for days together, at an altitude where every step felt difficult, and all other team members around me were struggling with their own steps, I was left completely alone with myself! That's where I got to meet myself. I started identifying my limitations and insecurities in life which was stopping my progress back in the routine world, even when I made constant efforts for self-improvement. I would still feel wonderful about myself when I made it to the top of some of the most challenging mountains in the world. My journey of self exploration and self acceptance had already started!

Mera Peak Summit in Nepal - 6461m height

Living in the present

On the mountains, when every step and every breath felt difficult, there was nothing else that could have bothered me at the moment, than making it to the destined stop for the day. When I left my life to the fate of nature, there was always a possibility of not even making it to the next day in those extreme conditions. I learnt to live in the present. And it did not stop just there, I carried this learning back to the cities and lived with the same attitude, though it felt bizarre to others around me.

Technical climb during trekking expedition

Broadening my perspectives

Social conditioning has taught us to live our life in a particular way, but when I exposed myself to extremities and diversities, I discovered that life existed beautifully even when those conditions were completely defied. Life in all forms thrived in places close to nature and I learnt to find my little joys in simpler things in life. It helped me broaden my perspectives about life, it felt magical. I was probably seeking these perspectives, because deep down I always believed that there has to be some other ways than the ones I grew up with.

Connecting with nature on treks

Sense of gratitude for life

I was getting lost each time I tried to find my purpose in life. But when I found myself to be amongst the very few people on the planet who have deeply experienced the pristine beauty of nature, I felt content. The way I could absorb the beauty in my eyes, my mind and my heart gave me a sense of gratitude for life. If I was born just to appreciate the real beauties of the creation, I have no complains!

Gratitude for life

Secret Affair with Nature

When I felt content with the spectacular vistas on the planet, I started observing every little life that existed within. The pretty birds, the vibrant flowers, the eye-catching wildlife, the age old trees, the kind humans - I started feeling a connect with all of these. I found the most innocent creatures of the planet, deep down the oceans. I have spent absolutely silent hours watching the attractive and delightful fishes underwater and they have left a lasting impression on me. When I swam with them in the endless oceans, I felt myself to be one amongst them. When I started feeling one with nature, I connected with my higher self.

Scuba diving in Maldives - secret affair with nature

Health is a state of complete harmony of the body, mind and spirit. When one is free from physical disabilities and mental distractions, the gates of the soul open.

When I went about taking frequent adventures making it my lifestyle, a healthy body and healthy mind came to me effortlessly which made way for my spiritual progress, the ultimate goal of human life.

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Annapurna Conservation Area Project, Nepal: classic model for responsible & sustainable trekking tourism

5/31/2020

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Growing up in an era, when human society is constantly under the threat of depletion of natural resources, I had dreamt to visit some beautiful corners of our planet before the threat turned into a reality, like everyone in our generation has. My strong connection with sports got interwoven with my fascination for adventure travel and I started climbing the Himalayas. Once I tasted the purity of the pristine Himalayas, it never felt the need to look out for other destinations for my travels, eventually I did start exploring the diverse beauties of the globe, but I have always had an intimate affair with the Himalayas. I got enticed by the untouched beauty of the Himalayas, I got to experience on the trekking trails, only to later realise how commercialisation had started taking over! Since last 2-3 years, Over Tourism has turned into reality, and travel ceased to feel the soul-searching journeys as it did earlier. Along with over tourism, other human activities have caused the threat of depletion of Earth’s natural resources turning into a hard reality.

Up close with the Himalayas

Trekking deeply instilled self-realisations and a genuine concern for the conservation of nature in me, making me an extremely conscious human being. I started choosing the trails lesser taken for my personal gratification, and while I did my part in caring for the environment and being a responsible being, I came to realise that individual efforts are just not enough. For a balanced ecosystem, there is a strong need for the entire system to be regulated. Responsible and Sustainable Tourism is the only answer to make travel experiences beautiful. Just when my little mind was burdened with these thoughts, I got an invite for Annapurna Base Camp Trek. I wouldn’t miss any chance to be in the Himalayas, but I wasn’t sure how it would be to walk on one of the most popular trekking routes in Nepal. Without any expectations in my mind, I landed in Nepal and got introduced to the tourism ministers of Nepal, who had organised the trek for us.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project, Ghandruk office

After receiving a warm welcome at the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) office in Ghandruk, they presented their project of conserving the natural and cultural resources in this area. I suddenly felt excited about discovering something that my heart exactly wanted to hear at that moment! The beauty of the Himalayas and the craving for serenity immediately put on the back burner, I was more keen on observing and practically learning the concepts of responsible and sustainable tourism in Annapurna Conservation Area - the first and the largest protected area of Nepal.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) has been instrumental in conservation of natural and cultural heritage, community development projects for the locals and sustainable tourism in the Annapurna Conservation Area since 1986. ACAP focuses on 7 units marked within the conservation area - Jomsom, Manang, Lomanthang, Bhujung, Sikles, Ghandruk, and Lwang. I was happy to walk the Annapurna Base Camp trail in Ghandruk region with the officials of ACAP who kept giving insights on the constant work they keep doing to conserve that region.

Conservation of rich biodiversity through Afforestation efforts

The Annapurna Mountains ranging from subtropical forests (1000m) to trans-Himalayan cold deserts (8000m) builds an amazing ecosytem for extremely rich biodiversity with over 1200 species of trees & flowering plants and over 600 wildlife species. The trekking trails in Annapurna Conservation Area are covered with thick forests owing to the afforestation and reforestation efforts by ACAP. Annapurna Conservation Area is home to over 40 varieties of Rhododendrons brought in from different Himalayan regions in Asia. Rhododendron trekking in Annapurna Region is quite popular from March to May, when the rhododendrons are in full bloom. Different species of trees and plants have been brought in from different countries and preserved in this conservation area, making it an excellent habitat for flora and fauna.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - conservation of rich biodiversity

Protection of cultural heritage & ethnic tribes in Annapurna region

The indigenous communities settled in the foothills of Annapurna Range in Nepal were originally the wandering tribes of regions under Tibetan influence. The dominant groups of this regions are Gurung, Magar, Thakali, Manange and Loba. These ethnic tribes follow Hinduism or Tibetan Buddhism with various belief systems and have unique languages, cultures and traditions. They have been mainly involved in traditional occupations of farming and animal raising. In an effort to protect the cultural diversity of Annapurna Conservation Area, ACAP has ensured sustainable benefits for the local communities.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - protection of cultural heritage & ethnic tribes

Building trekking trails with stone steps and suspension bridges

Trekking Tourism has been a great support to local communities in Annapurna Conservation Area by generating a source of income for them. It also became a reason for the minimalistic and sustainable development of the area which benefitted the local life as well. Building stone steps and suspension bridges on the trail has been an undertaking of ACAP, to make hiking a smooth experience in all seasons.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - building trekking trails with suspension bridges

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - building trekking trails with stone steps

Strategic positioning of Teahouses & Lodges on trekking trails

Tea-houses were originally teashops where locals provided meals and tea to the trekkers on the hiking trails. Later the tea-houses started giving shelter to the trekkers and evolved into lodges with rooms, washrooms and few basic comforts like wifi, charging points and hot showers. Trekking tourism saw a huge shift from scheduled camping groups to free individual trekkers, who would like to walk the trail at their own pace. ACAP has helped the lodges to be strategically positioned at a distance of every couple of hours of hike on the trail, which make perfect stops for the trekkers for tea, lunch and rest for the night.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - teahouse & lodges on trekking trails

Training of lodge owners

The lodge owners are encouraged to train themselves at the hotel management institutions in Nepal and India. The locals benefit from their education with readily available job and business prospects which eventually leads to a satisfying experience for the trekkers. The locals are also exposed to cross-cultures with the influx of travellers from all over the world.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - training of lodge owners

Fixed prices for lodges and food menus

Fixing the prices of the lodges and food menus at every destination on the trekking trail has been the most thoughtful decision of ACAP to prevent undercutting and price wars. This move totally eliminates the unpleasant experiences of negotiation and dissatisfaction related to costs on both the sides - the lodge owners and trekkers.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - fixed prices for lodges & menu

Micro hydro-electric generators

The rivers flows in full swing in this mountainous region, and instead of obstructing their natural flow by building dams across, ACAP has effectively used the flow of the rivers for micro hydro-electric generators.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - micro hydro-electric generators

Lodges with solar water heater and efficient stoves

ACAP has encouraged the use and availability of solar heaters and efficient stoves at the lodges and local households in the terrain which remains cold most of the time.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - solar water heaters & efficient stoves

Safe drinking water stations / ban on mineral water bottles

An extremely important step taken by ACAP to stop the use of bottled water was by declaring Annapurna Conservation Area as “Mineral Water ban area”. They have set up safe drinking water stations from where the trekkers and lodge owners can refill their reusable bottles. I was so happy to see this being followed so religiously, there was no trace of plastic bottles left behind in the mountains.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - safe drinking water project

Protection of environment by effective garbage collection

ACAP has continuously engaged in spreading environmental awareness to the locals and persuading them to keep the trails and their villages free from garbage. For effective garbage collection, bins are installed on the trails as well. After seeing so many places where Himalayas are genuinely bleeding, it was a relief to my soul to see the Himalayas healing in the Annapurna Conservation Area.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - effective garbage collection

Health posts and mobile networks for safety of trekkers

ACAP has installed health posts and mobile networks throughout the trail for the safety of trekkers.

Adequate Information about the trekking trails for solo trekking

The carefully designed arrangements in Annapurna Conservation Area has made a way to happily embrace solo trekkers in this region. With all the basics in place, and enough information provided by ACAP on the trail, trekkers can easily and safely walk the trails on their own.
Click for - Tips on how to plan Annapurna Base Camp trek in Nepal.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - information on trekking route

Organic farming in the Himalayas

As if the clean trails, comfortable lodges, safe drinking water and natural beauty weren’t enough, I had the luxury of eating fresh food from the organic farms of the Himalayan terrains, every single day on the trail! Leaving my personal greed for fresh food aside, I actually felt glad to see the locals being encouraged to grow their own food. In all earnest ways, they could continue living their indigenous lifestyle because of the sustainable living opportunities provided to them by Trekking Tourism.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - organic farming

Community Development Centre - Ghandruk

The Community Development Centres have been planned by ACAP for upliftment of the lifestyle of the locals. Awareness and training programmes are conducted for locals on sustainable living in this area. Apart from the lodge owners who directly benefit from rooms and food to the trekkers, the others are encouraged into producing homegrown products which can be used for trekking tourism. The lodge owners are encouraged to buy products directly from the locals involved in farming, poultry, crafts, woollen items for the tourists. Community health centre and women interest groups have benefitted the local communities.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - community development centre

I consider Annapurna Conservation Area Project as a classic model for responsible and sustainable tourism as it has not only covered, but also effectively implemented every aspect of creating a positive environment by:

Being kind to mother nature.
Keeping local communities engaged and happy with minimalism.
Giving a pleasant experience to the travelers.

Annapurna Conservation Area Project - Responsible & Sustainable Trekking Tourism

Responsible Tourism creates better places for people to live and visit by constantly improving and maintaining the quality of living for the locals which eventually helps in offering efficacious experiences to the travellers.
When everything else seemed to threaten the survival of humanity and nature, my trek to Annapurna Base Camp was successful in showing me the possibilities for a better future, for a balanced ecosystem.
Responsible Tourism is the only way forward..

P.S. I was on trek to Annapurna Base Camp in collaboration with Nepal Tourism Board.

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How to plan Annapurna Base Camp trek in Nepal - route, difficulty, best time to trek and safety for solo trekking

5/28/2020

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Annapurna region, also known as Annapurna Massif, is the second most popular region in Nepal, after Everest. The Everest Region of Nepal is the most famous mountain range in the world encompassing 4 of the 14 highest mountains of the world, called the eight-thousanders (above 8000m). The highlight of the Annapurna Mountain Range is Annapurna I (8091m), the tenth highest mountain of the world, surrounded with around 30 peaks over 6000m. Ranging from easy short treks to extremely difficult climbing expeditions, Annapurna Region generously offers something to every level of adventure seeker, clearly justifying its name Annapurna (meaning full of food) - the Hindu goddess of food and nourishment.

Annapurna Range of Mountains, Nepal

Different trekking routes in the Annapurna Himalayan Range

Based on the expertise level and time in hand, the adventure seekers can choose from various trekking options available in the Annapurna Region. The most popular routes listed below take diversions at many junctions, leaving an option for the trekkers to customise their trek.

Medium-altitude treks (basic grade) : 3-4 days of trekking routes like Poonhill (2610m), Ghorepani (2850m), Mohare Danda (3300m) through forests gives panoramic views of the Annapurna Mountain Range from a relatively close proximity.
High-altitude Annapurna Base Camp Trek (easy grade) : 7-9 days of trekking routes from different start points like Ghandruk or Birethanti (through poonhill) to Annapurna Base Camp (4310m) gets you closer to the massive mountain range and back. With the road development, the trekking route keeps getting shorter and starting point keeps changing. Click for details - the shortest route to Annapurna Base Camp trek from Ghandruk.
High-altitude Annapurna Circuit Trek (medium grade) : 14-16 days of circular trek around the Annapurna Range of Mountains, crossing over ThorongLa Pass (5416m), gives excellent views of the mighty Himalayas from all the sides.
Extreme Summit Climbs (challenging grade): the Annapurna Mountain Range blessed with over 30 peaks above 6000m, and some of the highest and most dangerous mountains to climb, there’s enough for the extreme adventurers and technical climbers.

Annapurna Range of Mountains, Nepal

Annapurna Base Camp trek difficulty

For a high-altitude trek at the height of 4310m, Annapurna Base Camp trek is one of the easiest trek at that height, recommended for beginners. The hiking route for everyday is long, which requires good stamina.
It is extremely important to train your body for physical fitness before attempting any high-altitude trek. For the ones who aren't regularly involved into fitness routines, it is advisable to start preparing at least 1-2 months in advance by walking and jogging regularly for 4-5 kms.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Annapurna Sanctuary

Most of the route is through the forest line with lots of ascents and descents on the never-ending stone steps, which can be very tiring. But due to the availability of tea-houses at every 1-2 hours, it is easy to break the journey as per the trekkers comfort.
The ascents are very gradual, with only few short steep patches. At higher altitude towards Machapuchare Base Camp and further to Annapurna Base Camp, the trail is even more gradual which makes it very easy to acclimatise at that height - don't forget to drink a lot of water everyday to acclimatise well.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

Tea-houses on Annapurna Base Camp Trekking route

The tea-houses on the trekking routes in Nepal makes trekking extremely comfortable and enjoyable. There are enough tea-houses on the trekking route to Annapurna Base Camp spaced at every 1-2 hours. It is easy to break at the tea-houses for tea and meals on the way, leaving the trekkers free from the burden of carrying food or extra water. Originally the teahouses were meant to provide tea and food to the trekkers, but with time, these tea-houses have developed into lodges with guest rooms. The charges for the rooms are nominal and standard at every destination.

Tea-houses on Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

Accommodation, food & other facilities in the lodges on trekking route to Annapurna Base Camp

The tea-houses are well-equipped with basic comforts, which literally are big luxuries on a trek. The cosy rooms have basic beds, pillows, enough warm blankets and a small light. Most of the tea-houses have common toilets and bathrooms, while some may even have an attached washroom to every room.

Accommodation in Tea-houses on Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

The perks of trekking on tea-house trails in Nepal are the comfort facilities in the tea houses available at an additional cost - charging points, wifi, hot showers. Fresh cooked food is another luxury on the teahouse trails, where trekkers can order meals from a menu.

Food menu in Tea-houses on Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

Most of the teahouses have standard menus with breakfast (eggs, pancakes, porridge, local bread), lunch & dinner (dal bhat, spaghetti, pizza, potatoes, momos, spring rolls) - sounds lavish enough??!!
Dal-Bhat (a plate of steamed rice, lentil soup, vegetable curry, sautéed spinach, fresh pickle) is the authentic Nepalese food in the menu, also recommended as the best for your stomach on a high-altitude trek.

Traditional Nepalese meal - Dal Bhat, Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

What to pack for Annapurna Base Camp trek

After reading through the comforts of a tea-house, it is quite relieving to pack your trekking backpack with minimal basic essentials. Just make sure that you have all the gears to cover your body from head to toe as the weather can play a spoilt sport on some days.
Hiking pants, tshirts, trekking shoes, socks - for hiking.
Fleece or a hiking jacket, rain jacket & trousers - for hiking in bad weather.
Trekking pole, water bottle, sunglasses, torch - hiking accessories.
Thermal inners, down jacket, woollen socks, woollen gloves & woollen cap - for the evenings & nights.
Sunscreen, face wash, cold cream, lip balm - basic toiletries.
Personal medicines & hygiene needs.

The best place to buy all the trekking gears & accessories is Thamel market in Kathmandu, Nepal. However, if you have still missed out something important, the local shops in the villages on on the trail and the lodges do sell essentials like toilet paper, batteries, mobile recharge coupons, woollens and toiletries.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

Is it possible to trek solo to Annapurna Base Camp

Absolutely! Annapurna Base Camp trek, being one of the most popular trekking routes in the world, is walked by many hikers, which makes it extremely safe for solo trekking. The teahouses on the trail provides food and accommodation, giving the ease of just carrying your own backpack to keep going! The trail is well marked and easy to follow, there is adequate information about the trail at every lodge, making it possible to trek without a guide.

Information on Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

If you enjoy your own company and love to walk at your own pace, Annapurna Base Camp trek is a great deal for solo trekking!
For the ones who don't find it interesting to trek all alone - hire a porter to carry your backpack and guide you through the route -OR- join an organised group trek.
And then I met this inspiring bold beauty who chose to trek solo, carrying a backpack and a kiddo on her back, all the way to Annapurna Base Camp! And the kiddo was having the fun of his life!!

Solo Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp, Nepal

If you are trekking solo in the peak season, there could be issues with the availability of lodges. It is advisable to book lodges before hand. There's enough information about lodges on this trail. I'm sharing a list with contact numbers of the lodges on Annapurna Base Camp route, which may come handy while planning.

Contact numbers of the lodges on Annapurna Base Camp route

Best time to trek to Annapurna Base Camp

Spring (April-May) and Autumn (October-November) are the peak seasons for trekking in Nepal.
However, to avoid the crowd, many people choose to trek in the shoulder seasons, just before and after the peak seasons. The lodges on Annapurna Base Camp trail can be full during peak season, it is advisable to book before hand.
A lot of hikers choose to trek in spring to avoid the heat in their cities at that time, while quite a few choose to trek in autumn for clearer skies and drier weather.

Clear view of Annapurna Range from Annapurna Base Camp, Nepal

Permits required for Annapurna Base Camp Trek

The 2 mandatory permits for trekking in the Annapurna Region can be obtained from the Nepal Tourism Board office either in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) - a mandatory trekking permit for all treks in Nepal keeps a record of all trekkers to ensure their safety and security.
ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) - national park permit for Annapurna Conservation Area.

Permit checkpoints on Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

How to reach to the start point of Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Physical Fitness ✓
Backpack ✓
Permits ✓
Leave worries behind ✓
Ready to breathe the fresh air of the Himalayas ✓

Hop onto a flight to Pokhara, or fly to Kathmandu and take the road journey to Pokhara (by bus/car).
From Pokhara, you need to take a road journey to Nayapul / Ghandruk / Matkiu to start your trek. There are several busses running on this route, else you can hire a private vehicle to get to the start point of the trek.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Nepal

Click to read - my experience on trekking to Annapurna Base Camp.

P.S. I was on trek to Annapurna Base Camp in collaboration with Nepal Tourism Board

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Annapurna Base Camp Trek from Ghandruk Village in Nepal - the shortest route to ABC Trek

5/20/2020

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When the mountains do call, you don’t say no! When I got invited to go on a trek to Annapurna Base Camp, all I cared about was "to be" in the Himalayas, one more time, coz that’s where I feel alive. Though I was dealing with the thought of walking on one of the most popular trekking routes of Nepal, after being spoilt with pristine trails like Auden’s Col and Mera Peak, I packed my backpack to spend 3 weeks in Nepal without even looking at the itinerary. It was such a soothing feeling to have someone else plan it for me for a change, so that I could just go with the flow!

Annapurna Base Camp

Ghandruk Village, Nepal - Gateway to Annapurna Base Camp

Ghandruk village perched on the foothills of Himalayas at 1950m, is a unique ethnic village occupied by the Gurung tribe of Nepal. We put up at a traditional stone house lodge, Gurung Cottage, highly recommended as the best lodge in Ghandruk with spectacular views of the Himalayan peaks. A clear morning gave distinct views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machapuchare peaks from Gurung Cottage itself, yet, the greed to be closer to these giants got me out of the coziness that this village was pulling me into.

Spectacular views of Himalayan peaks (Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Machahpuchare) from Gurung Cottage, Ghandruk

After a delicious Gurung breakfast (Gurung Cottage makes the best Gurung bread on the ABC trail), I put on my trekking boots and strapped the backpack on my shoulders and waist to hit the trail. We took the shortest route to Annapurna Base Camp from Matkiu, where the current off-road ends. We trekked for a total of 7 days on the trail, however, the number of trekking days can be reduced depending on the physical fitness and acclimatisation of the trekkers. The gradient of the trail is quite easy for a high-altitude trek.

Spectacular views of Himalayan peaks (Annapurna South, Hiunchuli) from Gurung Cottage, Ghandruk

How to reach Ghandruk from Pokhara / Kathmandu:

A scenic 30-min short flight in a small bombardier carrier of Buddha Air got us from Kathmandu to Pokhara. The promising bird’s-eye view of the Himalayan Ranges from the flight quite thrilled me for my upcoming adventure in the Himalayas. We took a 5-hour road journey in a private jeep through Sarangkot View point to reach Ghandruk from Pokhara.

Day1: Ghandruk(1940m) - Jhinu Danda(1780m) - Chhomrong(2170m)
Distance:8 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

We started hiking downhill from Ghandruk to meet the off-road which currently ends at Matkiu. Matkiu Bus and Jeep Station is the point from where the shortest hiking trail for ABC starts. The narrow trail with river Modi Khola on the right was a gradual ascent. Just after an hour’s walk on the trail through the forest, we were surprised with the highest and longest suspension bridge on the ABC trail. Crossing the vibrant suspension bridges on different trekking trails in Nepal is quite a fascination for me. The New Jhinu Danda Bridge (also called Kadoorie Bridge) connects Jhinu Danda and Simrong with splendid views of the valley and a gorge making way for Modi Khola river.

Jhinu Danda Bridge (Kadoorie Bridge) - Suspension bridge connecting Jhinu Danda and Simrong

After another hour of steep ascent from the bridge, we stopped at Jhinu Danda for lunch, Dal-Bhat sounded the most promising meal on the menu. The struggle to climb on the 1st day on any trek is real, the body needs time to acclimatise to higher altitude and lower oxygen levels. I twisted my ankle on the stone steps and thankfully I could offload my backpack to our porter, which I generally tend to avoid. We took around 3 hours to walk on the steep uphill trail made of stone staircases to reach Chhomrong, our stop for the day.

Stone Steps towards Chhomrong on Annapurna Base Camp trail

The welcome board to Chhomrong declared it as “Mineral Water Ban Area” and promoted the use of “Safe Drinking Water” - a project by ACAP which allows us to refill our bottles at every lodge on the entire trail.

Mineral Water Ban Area, Chhomrong

Safe drinking water project by ACAP in Chhomrong

In the villages on the trail, there are small local markets with shops selling locally weaved woollen clothes and accessories for the mountains and some basic trekking gears. The aroma of freshly baked cakes and bread from the bakeries in Chhomrong filled the air of the town at this altitude.

Locally weaved woollen clothes and accessories on Annapurna Base Camp trail

The board of our abode for the night “Excellent View Top Lodge & Restaurant” instantly tempted us for the Hot Pizzas! The lodge is supposed to give excellent views of the Himalayas, but it was a cloudy day and the excitement for the pizzas was enough to not crib about the dampened skies or the sore leg muscles.

Excellent View Top Lodge & Restaurant, Chhomrong - Annapurna Base Camp trail

The lodges have cozy wooden rooms with comfortable beds and common washrooms. Most of the lodges provide heaters, charging points, wifi and hot showers at an additional cost.

Comfortable lodges on Annapurna Base Camp trail

Topped with fresh veggies & herbs straight from the organic farms and local yak cheese, there was no stopping on the hot pizzas! It gets extremely difficult to lose weight on teahouse treks of Nepal, coz they literally spoil you!

Hot Pizzas at Excellent View Top Lodge & Restaurant, Chhomrong - Annapurna Base Camp trail

Day2: Chhomrong(2170m) - Sinuwa(2360m) - Bamboo(2145m)
Distance:11 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Waking up to a misty morning in Chhomrong was quite refeshing, but the views of the snow-covered peaks remained blocked. A descent through the village of Chhomrong gave a glimpse into the local life of the ethnic Gurung tribe living in this area.

Local life of Gurung tribe in Chhomrong - Annapurna Base Camp trail

And again it was the time to torture our legs with a series of ascents and descents on the stone steps. The tip of the Fishtail (Machapuchare) mountain kept teasing us throughout the trail and kept us going!

Fishtail mountain on way to Sinuwa from Chhomrong - Annapurna Base Camp trail

The trail ahead crossed through the dense forests of oak, rhododendron and cedar trees. The nature itself acts as a sunscreen by not letting the sun pass through the thick cover of the forests. It was easy to lose myself in the tranquility of the woods and the sound of the river flowing all along.

Rhododendron & oak forests - Annapurna Base Camp trail

We stopped over at Hilltop Lodge in Sinuwa for a quick tea, and continued hiking towards Bamboo for lunch. We had aimed to reach Himalaya this day, but dark clouds covered up the skies and we had the comfort of choosing to stay back in Bamboo.

Lodge at Bamboo - Annapurna Base Camp trail

That’s the advantage of trekking on the tea-house trails in Nepal! With the strategically located lodges at distance of every 1-2 hours, and correct information available on the entire trail, it becomes easy to break the journey everyday as per the trekkers’ comfort.

Information of lodges on Annapurna Base Camp trail

The organic farms on the trail had started distracting me from the trek and I must confess that I had started looking forward to the freshly cooked organic greens more than the mountain peaks.

Organic farming on Annapurna Base Camp trail

Day3: Bamboo(2145m) - Dovan(2520m) - Himalaya(2920m) - Deurali(3200m)
Distance:10 kms / Duration: 6-7 hrs

It was a fresh start to the day through the bamboo forests, and on the third day of trekking, body tends to get accustomed to the difficulties of climbing a mountain.

Bamboo forests - Annapurna Base Camp trail

Instead of grumbling about climbing the endless stone steps, I had started finding fun in descending through the dense forests, crossing river streams and ascending towards the snow-covered mountains.

Crossing river - Annapurna Base Camp trail

We stopped over at Dovan for a quick tea, ginger-lemon-honey is my favourite in the mountains. The location of Dovan on the upper edge of the deep gorge has been well utilised for a micro hydropower plant. Just a little ahead of Dovan, we came across a huge waterfall rushing into the river Modi Khola, and a small shrine called Pojo Nim Baraha, worshipped as source of energy by the Gurung locals.

Waterfall & shrine of Pojo Nim Baraha worshipped by Gurungs - Annapurna Base Camp trail

Another steep ascent got us to a beautiful location called Himalaya, where we stopped over for lunch. The lunch menu looked pretty interesting here, and we binged on spaghetti in the outdoors! After lunch, we moved on to climb the endless stone steps towards our target of the day. We walked past a huge rock formation called Hinku cave. After that we kept following the trail with a gradual ascent along the river Modi Khola and chose our lodge for the night at Deurali.

Stone steps to Hinku Cave - Annapurna Base Camp trail

In the evening, when the skies cleared up in Deurali, a local helped us spot a white painting of what looks like a naturally carved stone resembling Buddha on one of the surrounding Himalayan mountains. The locals talk about it as a mysterious painting on a rock which looks inaccessible from any of the sides.

Naturally carved painting of Buddha on mountain in Deurali - Annapurna Base Camp trail

Day4: Deurali(3200m) - MBC(3700m) - ABC(4130m)
Distance:7 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Breakfast at Deurali, Lunch at Machapuchare Base Camp and Dinner at Annapurna Base Camp!
This was the day we all had been really waiting for, each one of us had a different reason to trek to Annapurna Base Camp. One of us had been fantasising Annapurna mountain for a long time, the other one was attempting a trek of this altitude for the first time, and I wanted to be in the higher Himalayas beyond the treeline, to breath the freshness of the pristine Himalayas! A glacier on the trail marked the end of the treeline. As we made a gradual ascent towards Machhapuchare Base Camp, I started feeling nostalgic with the terrain of higher Himalayas.

Deurali to Machahpuchare Base Camp - Annapurna Base Camp trail

We took a leisure lunch at Machapuchare Base Camp and I celebrated the closeness with Machapuchare (Fishtail) mountain to my hearts content. Machapuchare mountain is considered to be the holy abode of Lord Shiva.

Up Close with Fishtail Mountain - Machapuchare Base Camp

The grandeur of the other mountains (Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Gangapurna and Hiunchuli) had been captivating us from Machapuchare Base Camp. We started getting closer to them as we progressed towards Annapurna Base Camp from MBC, while the peaks kept playing hide and seek in the clouds.

Machapuchare Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp trail

By the time we made it to the Annapurna Base Camp, the mountain peaks had started fading away in the low light, but the vibrant prayer flags that welcomed us at the base camp lifted us up after a long day.

Welcome to Annapurna Base Camp

Day5: Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) - Himalaya (2920m)
Distance:13 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

I couldn’t wait for the dawn to see myself enclosed by a ring of glowing peaks of some of the mightiest mountains of the world!

Annapurna Base Camp

When the sun rays created a magical glitter on the Himalayan peaks in the morning, I was left spellbound with the stunning 360 degrees panoramic view of 10th highest mountain on earth - Annapurna I (8091m), Annapurna III (7555m) and Annapurna South (7219m), Gangapurna (7455m), Machapuchare (6993m), Baraha Shikhar / Annapurna Fang (7647m), Hiunchuli (6441m), Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak).
Being face to face with these majestic Himalayas felt divine and it extremely difficult for me to say goodbye to them. Going back is the hardest part of the trek as the mountains invariably build an emotional connect with everyone!

Morning View of Annapurna Range of Mountains from Annapurna Base Camp

Thanking the heavens for rewarding us with such an intimate time with the Himalayan beauties, we started descending through the same route and stopped at Himalaya for the night.

Leaving from Annapurna Base Camp

Day6: Himalaya (2920m) - Chhomrong (2170m)
Distance:15 kms / Duration: 6-7 hrs

Descending from the Annapurna Base Camp wasn’t just a simple downhill, we had to make countless ascents followed with descents on the same trail to our way back. The Fishtail mountain had kept teasing me until Sinuwa and we stopped at Chhomrong for the night. The skies opened up for us at Chhomrong this time and we had breakfast with an exotic view!

View of the Himalayan Range from Excellent View Top Lodge, Chhomrong - Annapurna Base Camp trail

Day7: Chhomorong (2170m) - Ghandruk (1940m) - Pokhara
Distance:8 kms / Duration: 4-5 hrs

It was the last day for us to deal with the stone steps that we had cursed throughout the trek, but it seemed like I had started missing them already! Reaching Ghandruk and having our lunch at Gurung Cottage felt like home coming. Though the lodges on the trail pampered us with pizzas and spaghettis, nothing beats the traditional Nepalese food ( a set of steamed rice, dal, green vegetable, potato, fresh pickle) in the mountains, "Daal bhaat power, 24 hour" - as they say it. I was gonna miss the organic greens more than anything!

Traditional Nepalese food - Dal Bhat on Annapurna Base Camp trail

We bid adieu to our lovely hosts, guides, porters and the mountains and continued to Pokhara!

Our team with the porters.

Bloggers in the picture: Antarik Anwesan (On Second Thoughts), Swati Jain (Buoyant Feet),
Medhavi Davda (Ravenous Legs), Devang Sethi (The Punjabi Wanderer)

How to plan Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal:

For details on different trekking routes in Annapurna Region, difficulty level, physical fitness required, best time to trek and safety for solo trekking read - How to plan Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal.

P.S. I was on trek to Annapurna Base Camp in collaboration with Nepal Tourism Board.

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Bandipur - Newari heritage town in Himalayas

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Bandipur, Nepal - a charming Newari heritage town in Himalayas: offbeat place to visit near Pokhara

5/11/2020

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Bandipur, a charming little town in the foothills of Himalayas, all the way different from the rest of the destinations in Nepal, is quintessential heritage of Nepalese culture. Hidden in the lower Himalayan ranges, isolated on a hilltop at 1050m, Bandipur is absolutely off the beaten track. Just a 2-hour drive from Pokhara, Bandipur came in as a pleasant surprise after ending my Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Pokhara. Spending a day in Bandipur, without knowing anything about the place, and just going with the flow was the best way to feel absorbed by this place. When the driver stopped the car at the entrance of the town and asked to walk down to the guesthouse, I wasn’t expecting much out of this place. But as soon as I took first few steps in the narrow lanes of Bandipur, I was completely blown away, as this place looked nothing less than a European town with the old-world charm.

Bandipur - most charming town of Nepal, heritage of Newari culture

The quaint town of Bandipur is a perfect location for the ones looking for laid-back time in the Himalayas, without having to worry about the rest of the world!

Bandipur in Nepal - hilltop town hidden in the lower Himalayan range

Unique Newari Architecture and Cultural Heritage in Bandipur

As I kept walking along the cobbled lanes of Bandipur, I couldn’t stop admiring the townhouses on both the sides of the alley. I was so fascinated with the initial glimpses of the town, that my eyes had already started craving for more. After a couple of minutes of walk down the lane, with my focus on the antiquated houses, I realised that I was walking freely without the need of keeping a watch on the road for traffic! Bandipur is completely free of traffic, all the vehicles have to parked outside the gate of of the town. After the third minute of walk, I was in my hotel. I was so driven into a state of intrigue, that immediately after dumping my backpack in the room, I set out to explore this quirky looking town of Bandipur.

Bandipur - most charming town of Nepal, heritage of Newari culture

Without feeling the need to ask for directions or any other information, I was out on the lanes of Bandipur, wandering wherever the road took me. The more I explored, the more I was awed with the vividly coloured Newari architecture houses, covered with flowering vines, giving an attractive vibe of the town. These ancient houses with striking brickwork and unique wood carvings felt like a living museum displaying the indigenous Newari culture.

Houses with Newari architecture in Bandipur, Nepal

Newari houses are generally 3-4 storied, have thick-walls made of bricks and roofs made of clay tiles, an open courtyard, carved windows, rooms with low ceilings and stairs with handrails. Bandipur has gained its importance on the maps of Nepal as a cultural heritage by preserving the traditional Newari houses and not letting the modern buildings replace any of them.

Houses with Newari architecture in Bandipur, Nepal

Bandipur Bazaar for ancient trans-Himalayan Trade

Bandipur was originally a rural self-sufficient village, occupied by the Magar tribe of Nepal. In the 18th century, many Newari families from the merchant community of Kathmandu migrated to Bandipur and developed it into a significant trading centre, known as Bandipur Bazaar, and made it and important stop on the ancient India-Tibet trans-Himalayan trade route. The trade included exchange of herbs, spices, metals, animals, leather, crop yields and various articles between the two countries. During this period, Bandipur flourished and transformed into a town with paved lanes, townhouses, carved windows and doors on the buildings reflecting Newari architecture, brass utensils in the households.

Bandipur Bazaar - ancient trading centre on trans-Himalayan route

On the ground floor, the houses had an open store front facing the street, which made a perfect market place for the people walking in the bazaar. In 1970, a new highway was constructed between Pokhara and Kathmandu, which by-passed Bandipur, which resulted in decline of trade in Bandipur. They say, some things happen for good.. Bandipur fell into a time wrap since then and managed to preserve its ethnic Newari culture.

Newari houses in Bandipur with open store front

Local Newari Community in Bandipur, Nepal

After Bandipur lost its importance as a trading centre, many Newari families moved out of the town to places with better business opportunities. Few families that were left behind, chose to establish their primary businesses elsewhere and maintain their footing in Bandipur with secondary businesses like export of medicinal herbs, produce of silk from silkworms, slate mining, cultivating fruit orchards and farming.

Newari locals in Bandipur engaged in organic farming

The families living in Bandipur are a close-knit community enjoying a peaceful village lifestyle by engaging in their simple daily routines, cut-off from the rest of the world.

simple routine of local Newari community of Bandipur

This kiddo greeted me with a "Namaste" and wanted to talk to me as I was twinning with her in "Pink" :) and her little brother captured this moment for us!

Notre Dame Secondary School in Bandipur, Nepal

In 1985, the establishment of Notre Dame Secondary School, a catholic missionary school, brought Bandipur back on the map of Nepal, by being one of the best schools in Nepal.

Notre Dame Secondary School in Bandipur, Nepal

It was a delight to watch the school kids freely walk on the traffic-free lanes of Bandipur!

School kids freely walking on the traffic-free lanes of Bandipur!

Bandipur - Nepal’s best kept secret travel destination

Not discovered by the crowd, Bandipur still remains a secret travel destination of Nepal as it opened its doors for tourists only after the road development in 2003. With spectacular views of the snow-capped Annapurna Himalayan Range, beautiful Newari houses converted to heritage guest houses, warm Nepali hosts welcoming the travellers, cafes serving farm fresh organic food, and having nothing else to do in the tranquil town, I had all the time in the world to connect with myself and absorb the pleasant vibe to the town!

Bandipur - Nepal’s best kept secret travel destination

Places to visit in Bandipur, Nepal

Bandipur Bazaar has turned into a local market for the residents and tourists. Shops for basic essentials, pharmacies, wine shops, ATMs and souvenirs for tourists are lined up on the main street.

Shopping in Bandipur Bazaar

There are some cafes, bakeries and local food joints as well in the bazaar.

Food joints serving local food in Bandipur Bazaar

Apart from the main street of Bandipur Bazaar, there are 3-4 small by-lanes which can be easily covered by foot in a couple of hours. I couldn’t stop my RavenousLegs from walking down the lanes repeatedly, as I was enjoying the absolute freedom - freedom from crowd, traffic, pollution, worries!

Walking around freely in the lanes of Bandipur, Nepal

While carelessly strolling around the town of Bandipur, I came across some distinctive small temples and community areas:

Bindabasini Temple, Bandipur, Nepal:
At the end of the main street of the Bandipur Bazaar, I discovered a pagoda style Hindu temple with beautiful carvings dedicated to goddess Durga, the guardian deity of Bandipur.

Bindabasini Temple, Bandipur, Nepal

Ganesha Temple, Bandipur, Nepal:
Bang opposite to the Bindabasini Temple, is a small pagoda style temple dedicated to Ganesha.

Ganesha Temple, Bandipur, Nepal

Khadga Devi Temple, Bandipur, Nepal:
A small uphill walk through flight of stone steps lead me to another exclusive Hindu temple called Khadga Devi which literally means “goddess of the sword”. The temple has a sword which is considered to be a gift from Shiva and a symbol of Shakti. The sword is taken out once every year during the Dashain festival and remains hidden from everyone else throughout the year.

Khadga Devi Temple, Bandipur, Nepal

Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa / Bandipur Monastery:
Walking through the morning mist, the trail further up the hill took me to a tiny Buddhist Monastery called Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa or just Bandipur Monastery. This is the only monastery in Bandipur.

Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa / Bandipur Monastery

The resident monk passionately talks to the visitors about how he built this monastery after visiting many monasteries in Nepal and India. His wife offered some oranges and a tiny cube of real hard cheese as a warm gesture.

Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa / Bandipur Monastery

Tin Dhara, Bandipur:
At the end of another by-lane of Bandipur, there’s a local washing area called Tindhara, meaning “three taps”. This washing place gets its water supply from a natural source and the locals actively use it for washing clothes and bathing.

Tin Dhara, Bandipur

Shiva Temple, Bandipur:
Exactly opposite to the Tindhara, there’s a stone temple with a dome, dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Shiva Temple near Teendhara, Bandipur

Hiking Trails:
There are quite a few hiking trails from Bandipur through forests, leading to view points of panoramic vistas of the Himalayan Ranges.

Panoramic views of the Himalayan Ranges in Bandipur, Nepal

The Old Inn, Bandipur - Heritage Newari Guesthouse

My stay at The Old Inn, Bandipur, was actually a cherry on the cake! The stay in the traditional Newari townhouse converted into a guesthouse gave me a complete experience of Newari culture.

The Old Inn, Bandipur - heritage Newari guesthouse

How to reach Bandipur from Kathmandu / Pokhara

Bandipur is easily approached by road from Kathmandu (4-hour drive) and Pokhara(2-hour drive) as it lies on the midway of Kathmandu-Pokhara highway. The 8 km road to Bandipur cuts from a point on the highway called Dumre. There are few direct buses to Bandipur from both the cities. Or you can take any bus on this highway upto Dumre and take a local cab from there on.

Tranquility in Bandipur, Nepal

Bandipur left me greedy for its character, tranquility, cleanliness, minimalism, organic food and more importantly the traffic-free zone! Though I spent just a day in Bandipur, I would love to spend a few months here, connecting with nature and doing absolutely nothing!

P.S. I was on this trip to Nepal in association with Nepal Tourism Board

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Khajuraho Temples: symbolism of Sacred Union of the Divine - Feminine Energy & Masculine Consciousness

5/7/2020

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Khajuraho Temples hold a special place in the heart of Incredible India - Madhya Pradesh. Dignified as UNESCO World Heritage Site, the temples of Khajuraho are famous across the world for their erotic sculptures and finest Indian art. Over the years, Khajuraho has attracted a lot of travellers intrigued to find a relation between Kamasutra and temples of Khajuraho. Though the temples are one of the most sought after destinations of India for its display of erotism, only once I came up close & personal with them, I realised that the glamour of the temples of Khajuraho is way beyond the visual treats of beauty and erotism. The mysterious temples disappoint no one as they have a lot to offer to every curious soul through the concepts of Hinduism including philosophy, cosmology, psychology, spirituality, art, architecture, religious faith, mathematics and the absolute vibe!

Duladeo Temple, Khajuraho - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Story behind discovery of Khajuraho Temples famous for erotism

Khajuraho temples are beautifully located near Shiv Sagar Lake in a small medieval town surrounded by hills of Vindhya Range. Believed to be built in the 10th century by Chandela Rajputs who ruled the Bundelkhand region of Madhya Pradesh, the Khajuraho temple site had 85 temples dedicated to Hinduism and Jainism. The Mughals attacked and ruled over the Chandela kingdom 13th century through 18th century, leading to destruction and abandonment of the temples during that period. India then fell in the hands of British rule and in 1830s, a British surveyor was persuaded by a local of Khajuraho to checkout the sexually explicit temples. The temples were overgrown by forests by then. But the rediscovery of the temples lead to intensive repair work of the surviving 25 temples. Identified as masterpieces of Indian art, the temples of Khajuraho gained global attention and ended up on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Lakshamana Vishnu Temple, Khajuraho - UNESCO World Heritage Site

World famous erotic art on the temples of Khajuraho

Khajuraho Temples - masterpieces of Indian art and architecture

Erotic Sculptures on Khajuraho Temples

I won’t deny the fact that the temples of Khajuraho do leave a lasting impression of the erotic art on everybody’s mind, however, it is very suprising to know that the erotic sculptures occupy only 10% of the entire artwork represented on the walls of the temples.
Sexual pleasure has been considered an art and the erotic sculptures elaborate various sexual themes and different human expressions by showing men and women in intimate lovemaking and sexual positions.
What impressed me the most about the erotic art on Khajuraho Temples is the acceptance of sexual desire as an essential part of human life by Hindu tradition.

Men and Women in different sexual positions - Khajuraho Temples

Men and Women in embracing love making positions - Khajuraho Temples

Secular Sculptures of Ancient Human Life on Khajuraho Temples

Beyond the erotic art, the temples of Khajuraho depict various aspects of human life from birth to death. The different sculptures that occupy the rest of the walls of the temples include:

Daily Life: Statues of women absorbed in their daily life activities like dressing up, looking in the mirror, applying makeup, wearing ornaments, fixing hair, playing with her child, scratching her back, removing thorn from her foot.

Statues of nymphs/apsaras absorbed in daily life - Khajuraho Temples

Economic Life: Storytelling about the daily life in the ancient kingdom through the scenes of hunting, using animals for transport, constructing temples, fighting wars, meeting of ministers and king in the royal court.

Secular Sculptures of Economic life - Khajuraho Temples

Social & Cultural Life: Storytelling about the social life of people through statues of dancers, musicians, scenes of people playing music and drinking, brahmin imparting education and even funeral scenes.

Secular Sculptures of Social life - Khajuraho Temples

Religious Life: The acceptance of different gods in human life is represented through statues of gods and goddesses, demigods, gods with their consorts, various avatars of Vishnu.

Statues of gods - Khajuraho Temples

Nature: Treating nature as an essential part of human life is represented by carvings of floral prints, statues of animals and mythical animals.

Statues of nature - Khajuraho Temples

Goals of Human Life based on Hinduism on Khajuraho Temples

The artwork on the temples of Khajuraho symbolically highlight the four goals and necessary pursuits and goals of human life as per Hinduism:

Dharma (righteousness) - represented by the duties of a human in their daily life
Kama (desire) - represented by erotic sculptures and sensual fulfilment in human life
Artha (purpose) - represented by the economic activities to make a living
Moksha (liberation) - represented by the diety inside the temple. Only after passing through the above stages (dharma, Kama and Artha) and leaving them behind, a human is eligible for attaining self-realisation or moksha. The temple symbolically represents dharma, kama, Artha on the outer walls. Only after a circular walk around the temple can one enter inside the temple to worship the god.

Adinatha Temple, Khajuraho

Finest of Indian Art and Architecture on Khajuraho Temples

Khajuraho Temples are built according to Nagara-style Hindu Temple Architecture focusing on the tall tapering tower (Shikhara) resembling a mountain peak. The structure is built on a raised platform (Jagati). The entrance porch (Ardha Mandapa) leads to a hall (Mandapa) and a great hall (Maha Mandapa) which is used for public rituals like religious dancing and music. The symmetric repeating structures of Mandapas leading to a foyer (Antarala) which finally connects to the main sanctum (garbhagriha - womb room) symbolising God’s presence looks absolutely remarkable. The spire (Shikhara) topped with a cherry (Kalash) rises above the shrine and looks splendid in its own way.
It felt like the temples were building a connect with me as an observer through its detailed architecture.

Vishwanatha Shiva Temple, Khajuraho

The entire temple structure is lavishly adorned with intricate carvings and finely chiseled sculptures. Each part of the temple - entrance, spire, walls, pillars, ceiling is decorated with a unique concept related to Hinduism.

Vamana Vishnu Temple, Khajuraho

And it is not just the visual beauty of the carvings that brags about the finest art of these temples. The beauty of the of Khajuraho Temples actually lies in the idea of translating the entire theological concepts into symbolic art. I was awed with how effectively art can be used to make a human eye perceive concepts and interpret it in their own way, satisfying every individual's intellect.

Parshvanatha Temple, Khajuraho

Geometric Wonders of Khajuraho Temples

The glamorous appearance of the Khajuraho Temples that pleases the human eye is literally the outcome of complex mathematical and geometrical calculations. The temple architecture follows certain rules and proportions to be in sync with the cosmic philosophy. Every symbolic structure is given space on the temple according to its importance in the universe. When observed closely, the sky-soaring Shikhara is a repetition of smaller shikharas arranged proportionately to make a colossal tapering structure.

Duladeo Shiva Temple, Khajuraho

The shapes on the walls of the temple are aligned in such a way that it gives different images from different angles. The idols aligned on a horizontal line, appear like a stairway from a different angle.

Intricate carvings of Khajuraho Temples

The ceiling of the temples displays Mandalas with concentric floral patterns.
Every detail on the temple can be seen as a rhythmic progression of shapes from small scale to large scale, establishing an aesthetic appeal for the observer.
The most wondrous geometrical significance of the temples is that the median of the collective structures of a temple is precisely at the centre point of the innermost sanctum where the deity resides, where all the energies are concentrated, wonderfully representing the centre of universe, considering the temple as a representation of the universe.

Mandala on the ceiling of Khajuraho Temples

Religious Acceptance of Khajuraho Temples

The 25 surviving temples of Khajuraho highlighting different deities of Hinduism and Jainism represent the concepts of life through religion. The temples dedicated to Shiva, avatars of Vishnu, Ganesha, Sun god and Jain Tirthankars illustrate different religious stories through sculptures. The most iconic religious sculpture is the monolithic statue of the boar (Varaha Avatar of Lord Vishnu) who rescued Mother Earth from cosmic ocean and restored her place in the universe by picking her up between his tusks.

Varaha Vishnu Temple - Khajuraho

Matangeshwar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is the only temple in Khajuraho that is still actively used for worship. Pilgrims from across the country gather at Khajuraho to celebrate Shivaratri every year.

Matangeshwar Shiva Temple, Khajuraho

Khajuraho Group of Temples: Symbolism of a Cosmos

The Western Group of Temples highlighting three major Shiva Temples - Kandariya Mahadev, Matangeshwar and Vishwanath are considered to be a symbolic representation of a cosmic design.
The Kandariya Mahadev Temple dedicated to Shiva is the grandest and the largest temple of Khajuraho. It is believed to be in shape of Mount Meru, which is considered to be the centre of all the physical, metaphysical and spiritual universes.
Spending intimate time with the temples of Khajuraho was enough for me to be convinced that there are zillions of ways in which these temples symbolically represent the fundamentals of the entire cosmos. The architecture imagery of each temple, the resemblance of the temple with a mountain, the group of temples considered as cosmos, involvement of human life in the universe - everything that exists in the universe can be related to the temples, and vice versa.

Kandariya Mahadev, the largest temple of Khajuraho

Sacred Union of The Divine: The Ultimate Truth

Khajuraho is considered a holy site of Shiva, the supreme master of spirituality and yoga (defined as Union in Hinduism).
Shiva and Shakti together feed the principles of cosmos.
Shiva is the universal cosmic male, Shakti is the mother nature.
Shiva is the creative consciousness, Shakti is the pure energy.
Shiva is the supreme inner soul, Shakti is the supreme body.
The divine union of Shiva and Shakti (Ultimate Yoga) maintains the cosmic balance.
Shiva in absolute union with Shakti destroys and recycles life at the highest level of evolution.

At an individual level, the human being is considered to contain the entire cosmos within self. When the human can implement the principles of cosmic union to himself by the way of self realisation, he attains the ultimate balance within himself and a state of peace. This ultimate truth about life is called enlightenment.

The temples of Khajuraho flamboyantly display this cosmic principle through ample concepts enough to arouse a human mind. But it only arouses the seekers!

Temples of Shiva and Shakti in Khajuraho - maintaining cosmic balance in union

The mysterious temples unfailingly built an intimate relationship with the curious soul in me by talking about Hinduism as the way of life, and not a religion. No wonder Khajuraho Temples have time and again proved to be a great learning ground for scientists, archeologists, mathematicians, historians, architects, artists, yogis, spiritualists, psychologists, philosophers, devotees, sexualists, naturalists, thinkers, photographers, daydreamers or the story tellers!!

My trip to Khajuraho felt like a journey of the universe, a blessing that can be received only by open minds ready to perceive everything this place has to offer.

Khajuraho Temples

P.S. I had visited Khajuraho as part of Culture and Heritage Trail curated by Times Passion Trails in collaboration with Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board

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Walking along the UNESCO World heritage city of Orchha - A hidden gem of Bundelkhand, Madhya Pradesh

4/22/2020

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Spending a day in Orchha - UNESCO World Heritage City of India and a hidden gem of Bundelkhand region of Madhya Pradesh, felt like walking down the memory lanes of a royal princely town of India. With every step I took on the streets of Orchha, I was transported into the life of kings and queens who lived in magnificent palaces surrounded by hills and dense woods, worshipped their gods in palace-style carved temples, strolled around beautiful floral gardens and left their last memories in unique styled cenotaphs on the banks of a river. Orchha, which literally means "hidden", is a quaint island town nestled on the banks of river Betwa in Madhya Pradesh.

Founded in 15th century by Rudra Pratap Singh, the kingdom of Orchha was ruled by him and his brothers after which it was captured by Akbar under the Mughal Empire. In 16th century, when Jahangir came to power in the Mughal Empire, he gifted the kingdom of Orchha to Vir Singh Bundela, as a token of his loyalty for helping the emperor in a fight against his enemies. Under the Bundela reign, Orchha flourished with its glorious monuments of unique Indo-Muslim architectural style resulting out of the cultural amalgamation of Rajput kingdom in Mughal era. The historic town of Orchha seems to be frozen in time since then, as it still retains its old charm with rich Indian heritage and natural beauty.

Royal Chhatris / Cenotaphs of Bundela Kings in Orchha, Madhya Pradesh

Orchha Fort Complex

Orchha fort complex is a grand structure of marvellous buildings where each door opens to a story from the yesteryears. The unique blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture in Orchha is something to really look forward to. The fort contains three major palaces of Orchha:
Raja Mahal - built in classic Rajput style for the Bundela kings and queens.
Sheesh Mahal - the palace of mirrors with high ceilings is now owned by Madhya Pradesh Tourism and converted into a heritage stay.
Jahangir Mahal - built with a blend of Mughal and Rajput architecture, exclusively to welcome Jahangir in Orchha.

Raja Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

The Raja Mahal (King's Palace) was built in Rajput style for the kings and queens of Orchha. The palace is huge and has a courtyard in the centre. The exterior facade of the palace is simple but the interior chambers are decorated royally.

Raja Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

The Rajput styled domes topped on the roof of Raja Palace have braved various attacks and weathers and haven't lost the charm of its naturally coloured stone structures till date.

Rajput styled domes of Raja Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

Raja Palace has several secret passages. The layout and design of the windows and passage allow sunlight in the palace which creates different moods according to changing temperatures and light shades.

Arcaded passages of Raja Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

The interior chambers of Raja Mahal are painted with murals based on religious and social themes. Various illustrations from Ramayana, different avatars of Vishnu, social celebrations and festivals can be seen painted on the inner walls and ceilings of the kings' and queens' rooms.

Murals in Raja Mahal, Orchha

A mural depicting a traditional wedding celebration with various characters in the procession encompassed in the body of an elephant.

Mural in Raja Mahal, Orchha

Jahangir Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

Jahangir Mahal was built by the king exclusively to host Emperor Jahangir in Orchha just for one night. Jahangir Mahal is a portrayal of fascinating mix of Mughal and Bundela architecture. The palace is decorated with lavish exteriors and interiors. The roof of the palace is crowned with eight Mughal style domes in each corner and smaller domes between them. The courtyard has a water tank in the centre.

Jahangir Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

The windows of Jahangir Mahal are embellished with intricate lattice design. The roof and the domes look quite appealing with the naturally coloured turquoise stones.

Lattice design on windows of Jahangir Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

Phool Bagh & Dinman Hardaul Palace in Orchha Fort Complex

The Jahangir Palace opens up to a pleasing view of an elegant garden annexed to the fort complex. Phool Bagh is again an amalgamation of Bundela and Mughal styles where the architecture of the garden is Rajput and the plantation is Mughal. There's a palace inside phool bagh which was built for the prince Dinman Hardaul.

Phool Bagh & Dinman Hardaul Palace in Orchha Fort Complex

Ram Raja Temple in Orchha

An interesting folklore lies behind the temple built for Ram in Orchha. Chaturbhuj Temple was originally built to worship the image of Lord Ram. The queen of Orchha, a devotee of Lord Ram, went to Ayodhya to bring an idol of Ram. The idol was handed over to her with a condition that the first place she rests the idol at, would be the permanent abode for the deity. When the queen arrived in Orchha with the idol from Ayodhya, she stopped at the Rani Mahal (Queen's Palace) for rest. She had forgotten the condition and surprisingly the idol couldn't be moved from Rani Mahal to Chaturbhuj Temple. And therefore, the Rani Mahal had to be converted to Ram Raja Temple which has simple yellow exteriors and the obvious looks of a palace. Ram Raja Temple in Orchha is the only temple in India where Lord Ram is worshipped as a king and not as a god.

Ram Raja Temple & Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha

Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha

Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha is famous as the Hindu Temple with the tallest Vimana (ornate monumental tower) in India. The Basilica styled multi-storeyed structure with tall spires in shape of pine cones can't fail to attract anyone's attention. Chaturbhuj Temple is an outstanding structure with an eccentric blend of temple, fort and palace architectural features. Chaturbhuj, meaning one with four arms, refers to avatar of Vishnu. Chaturbhuj Temple was constructed by the Bundela Rajputs to enshrine the image of Lord Rama (an avatar of Vishnu), but according to the local legend mentioned above, the idol of Lord Rama had to be placed in Ram Raja Temple next to it and Charutbhuj Temple remained without any sanctum.

Basilica style Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha

Royal Chhatris / Cenotaph of Bundela Kings in Orchha

The final memories of the Bundela Rajput kings of Orchha remain captured in the cenotaphs (tombs) on the banks of river Betwa. The grand palatial structures of the cenotaphs flaunt the royalty of the Bundela kings. The distinctive chhatri with large domes and mighty pillars is the memorial of Vir Singh Deo, under whose period the Bundela dynasty flourished. The chhatri of Vir Singh Deo completely reflects Hindu architecture. Even thought the shikara (tower) of his chhatri remained incomplete due to political instability, this structure right next to the river looks quite picturesque.

Cenotaph of Bundela King Vir Singh Deo in Orchha

The 14 cenotaphs, one for each Bundela king of Orchha, are dotted on the bank of river Betwa. Most of the cenotaphs of the Bundela kings have identical structures and are found together in a complex. Rather than the common dome shaped layout, the roayl chhatris in Orchha are topped with temple style shikharas. These timeworn cenotaphs, reflecting a combination of Mughal and Bundela architecture, are the most impressive monuments of Orchha.

Royal chhatris / cenotaphs of Bundela kings of Orchha

Wildlife & Birding in Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary

The gateway to the jungles of Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary is right across Betwa river near the cenotaphs. The sanctuary is said to be spread over a small area with some interesting wildlife species. I'm more attracted to birds and Orchha is a paradise for bird lovers. Betwa river builds an amazing ecosystem for various in-house as well as seasonal migratory birds. While taking a stroll along the countryside of Orchha, I could spot various colourful species of birds hidden in the lush green plantations. Some birds have made their spaces even in the monuments of the fort complex. The cenotaphs of Orchha are breeding sites to a rare Indian specie of long-billed vultures.
Orchha offers a perfect blend of heritage, culture and nature in the heart of India - Madhya Pradesh.

Long-billed vulture of India on cenotaphs of Orchha

Indian Golden Oriole in Orchha

Amar Mahal - Luxury Stay in Orchha overlooking the Cenotaphs

I had visited Orchha as a part of Culture and Heritage Trail in Madhya Pradesh with Times Passion Trails. To give us an experience of a royal Bundela palatial stay, we were hosted in the luxury suites of Amar Mahal. The doors of Amar Mahal opened into panoramic views of monuments, cenotaphs and the surrounding hills. The restaurants served lip-smacking Bundelkhandi delicacies making it a perfect way to spend a day in the royal town of Orchha.

Royal Palatial food experiences by Times Passion Trails

My trip to Orchha was part of Culture and Heritage Trail in Madhya Pradesh handcrafted by Times Passion Trails. They had promised us to make us "live" the stories of the chosen destinations centred around culture and heritage of Madhya Pradesh. The handpicked destinations were topped by heritage stays, handcrafted food menus, expert archeologists and historians, a private Sufi night with India's renowned Coke Studio artists. The experience of living through the royal life of Madhya Pradesh was completed by an exclusively curated 7-course palace-style dinner. Experiential journeys are meant to be lived to the fullest!

Royal Palatial food experiences by Times Passion Trails

P.S. This trip was a part of Culture and Heritage Trail curated by Times Passion Trails in collaboration with Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board.

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Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh - the best preserved Buddhist Monument of India

4/17/2020

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Sanchi Stupa in Madhya Pradesh, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is hands down the best preserved Buddhist Monument of India. Located on a small hilltop in the town of Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh, this Buddhist complex encompasses buddhist stupas, temples and monasteries. The Great Stupa of Sanchi is the most significant monument which was built in 3rd century BCE. The earliest Stupa was just a a simple brick dome built over the relics of of the Buddha. The a history of several centuries of construction, reconstruction, abandonment and restoration, this now stands as an important monument of Indian Architecture and World Heritage.

The Great Stupa at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Origin of Buddhism in Ancient India

Buddhism originated as a religion in ancient India based on the teachings of Gautham Buddha who lived in India in 5th century BCE. Buddhism mainly focuses on the suffering that a man goes through in his mundane life and teaches how to end the suffering.
According to Buddhism, the main reasons for suffering are - hatred, greed and ignorance. Buddhism teaches the way to end the suffering is the the ultimate goal of human life which can be achieved by attaining nirvana - liberation from cycles of rebirth. Buddhism almost ceased to exist in India (apart from the Himalayan regions) during the Islamic rule from 12th century.

Carvings on Torana - The Great Stupa at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Propagation of Buddhism by Asoka in Indian Subcontinent

Asoka, an Indian Emperor of Maurya Dynasty got converted to Buddhism after waging a highly destructive war in 3rd century BCE. Ashoka heavily promoted Buddhism by establishing various Buddhist monuments across Asia and marking the important sites in Buddha’s life. He initiated the construction of 84,000 stupas to preserve the relics of Buddha. Sanchi Stupa was an outcome of one of these efforts of Asoka to preserve the relics of Buddha.

The Little Stupa at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Evolution of Sanchi Stupa - the best Buddhist monument of India

One of the oldest stone structures of India, The Great Stupa at Sanchi was initially just a brick hemisphere built over the relics of Buddha, in 3rd century BCE.
Later in 2nd century BCE, the dome was expanded and covered with stones, an ornamental staircase was added to circumambulate the dome, another stone balustrade was made around the stupa on the ground.
Then in the 1st century CE, the the stupa was accessorised by four eminently decorated gateways, one in each direction, enhancing the importance of the Great Stupa of Sanchi for it's architecture as well.
Until 9th century, few more stupas, buddhist temples and monasteries were added to the complex, .
In 12th century, after the arrival of Islam rulers in India, Buddhism started to decline and the stupas of Sanchi were abandoned, which caused a major destruction to these monuments by overgrown trees. The gateways, temples, monasteries lay in ruins for a very long time.
Only in the 19th century, the restoration work for the preservation of Sanchi Stupa was undertaken by Archeological Survey of India, funded by ShahJahan Begum, the lady ruler of Bhopal.
Each piece of the artistic gateway is so perfectly fitted, that it is difficult to imagine it being in ruined state for centuries. The incredibly well preserved Stupa of Sanchi is now a UNESCO World heritage site.

The Great Stupa of Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Ornamental Balustrade - The Great Stupa at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Toranas - the decorative gateways of Sanchi Stupa

The Great Stupa at Sanchi is embellished with four lavishly carved Toranas (gateways) in the four directions. The most impressive part of Sanchi Stupa is these marvellous gateways called Toranas, displaying Indian, Persian, Greek and Sumerian architecture. Each Torana is made from single highly polished granite stones, however, the carvings on them are so intricate that it gives a feeling of being carved from wood. The reliefs depicting various scenes lives of Buddha were carved by ivory carvers of Vidisha. In the 19th century, the Europeans were very interested in taking the well preserved gateways to their countries’ museums, however, they were allowed to take only the plaster copies of them.

Northern Gateway (Torana) - The Great Stupa at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Jatakas - the moral tales of Buddhism

The Toranas (gateways) of Sanchi Stupa resemble ancient Instagram walls with a huge collection of illustrations depicting moral tales from the life of Buddha, called Jatakas. Buddha attained Nirvana after many lives, and various stories from all his lives are considered as teachings in Buddhism. In all the scenes on the reliefs, Buddha is never personified even when he is playing the main role.

Miracle of Buddha walking on river: The upper part of the illustration depicts a sage and his disciples trying a rescue in the flooded river. The lower part represents a promenade as Buddha who walked on the river to control the flood as the sage and his disciples pay homage to the Master.

Jataka - Buddha walking on river - The Great Stupa at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Monkey offering honey to Buddha: The illustration depicts a monkey offering honey to the Pipal Tree which represents Buddha. The other monkey with empty hands represents that the bowl of honey is already offered as homage to the Master.

Jataka - monkey offering honey to Buddha - The Great Stupa at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh

Sanchi group of monuments

The heritage site at Sanchi is a cluster of Buddhist monuments which were built after the main Stupa subsequently. Two more stupas containing relics of Buddha’s disciples were added on, one of them is decorated with a Torana. Structures of various Buddhist temples and monasteries also lay in ruins in this complex.

Structure of Buddhist monastery - Sanchi group of monuments, Madhya Pradesh

Light and sound show at Sanchi Stupa

Sanchi group of Stupas host a light and sound show in the evenings giving insights into Buddhism, Budhha’s life and Asoka’s propagation of Buddhism. The Great Stupas is impressively personified as the Past Buddha, giving knowledge and wisdom to the smaller stupa personified as present/future Buddha.

Light and sound show timing is 7:30 pm everyday.
The Sanchi Stupa timing is 6:30 am - 6 pm everyday.

Light and sound show - Sanchi Stupa, Madhya Pradesh

Experience Architect Padma Shri K.K. Muhammed

Sanchi Stupa was a part of Cultural and Heritage Trip in Madhya Pradesh curated by Times Passion Trails. Living the stories of our rich past was an experience in itself, and to add on to it, we were hearing the stories of the best preserved monument of India from the renowned archaeologist of India Mr. KK Muhammed. He has been the regional director of ASI (Archaeology Survey of India) and recently honoured with Padma Shri award for his outstanding work. Extremely humble with his personality, he shared his deep knowledge about Indian monuments with us, an absolute prestige for us!

Times Passion Trails - Experience Architect Padma Shri K.K. Muhammed

P.S. A visit to Sanchi Stupa was perfect for my dose of positivity and calming vibes on Culture and Heritage trail with Times Passion Trails in collaboration with Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board

How to reach Sanchi Stupa

To reach Sanchi Stupa, one needs to take the 10km short road from Vidisha, the nearest town to Sanchi. Or the 45km long road from Bhopal, the nearest city to Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh.
Vidisha and Bhopal are connected by road as well as by rail. For air travel, Bhopal is the most convenient airport.

Where to stay in Sanchi

Sanchi is a very small town, famous for the Stupas and the museum. It is generally chosen as a daytime stopover while making a road trip from Bhopal and onwards to Udaygiri caves/Chanderi/Orchha.
There aren't many guest houses in Sanchi, however, if you need to take a night halt, MPT Gateway Retreat is the best place to stay in Sanchi.
Contact Details of MPT Gateway Retreat, Sanchi: 1800-233-7777 (toll free)

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Taj-Ul-Masajid: Crown of the mosques, Bhopal - the largest mosque in India

4/8/2020

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Taj-Ul-Masajid in Bhopal, the largest mosque in India, magnificently boasts its status of being the crown of all the mosques. A classic illustration of Mughal architecture, Taj-Ul-Masajid is built with red sandstone, which gives a pink facade to its outer walls. The beauty of the mosque is enhanced by three stark white bulbous domes on its rooftop. Two tall minarets covered with a white dome each guard the mosque on both the sides. A rectangular walled complex with huge open courtyard and water tank envelops the aura of the mosque.

Taj-Ul-Masajid, Bhopal - Crown of the mosques, largest mosque in India

Interesting history behind the completion of Taj-Ul-Masajid:

Apart from its outstanding looks, what makes this mosque special is the unique history behind the construction of the mosque which took more than a century for its completion. The story goes back to Mughal Era (1526-1857), when India was mushrooming with Mughal styled architectural monuments. The Muslim rulers had built a number of mosques and Madarsas to spread Islam and its teachings.

The construction of Taj-Ul-Masajid was started in 1857 by a lady ruler of Bhopal, Shah Jahan Begum, with the intention to serve Islam and spread its teachings. The first site chosen for the construction of the mosque had some remains of a temple, so she chose found another site for Taj-UI-Masajid. The work was taken over by her daughter after her, but due to lack of funds (which were used over a war), the work was suspended and the construction remained incomplete.

The mosque was left in bad shape with damaged roof, pits in the courtyard and incomplete minarets for years, before the guardian of the mosque undertook the reconstruction work in 1971. With the help generous donations from Muslim community in India and abroad, the construction of the mosque was completed in the year 1985, standing tall as one of the largest mosques of Asia.

She dreamt, she initiated, but couldn't see the dream being fulfilled in her lifetime. Destiny had it to be fulfilled by someone else a century later, for the betterment of humanity.

Entrance to Taj-Ul-Masajid, Bhopal - Crown of the mosques, largest mosque in India

Darul Uloom of Taj-Ul-Masajid:

In the 19th century, when the Muslims lost power, they were challenged to preserve and protect their religion. In an effort to educate the young generation in Islam religion, they started establishing and operating various Madarsas (religious schools) throughout the country. Darul Uloom, which literally means “house of knowledge” in Arabic are religious institutes where Holy Quran is taught. Taj-Ul-Masajid Darul Uloom was established in 1950 to fulfil 3 responsibilities - education, completion of mosque, preaching Islam. Regular classes are conducted in the prayer chamber. Apart from Quran and Arabic, the students are also taught Hindi, English, Mathematics, History and Geography. The degree awarded by this institution is equivalent to B.A. by Aligarh Muslim University.

Main prayer hall at Taj-Ul-Masajid, Bhopal - Crown of the mosques, largest mosque in India

Main Prayer chamber in Taj-Ul-Masajid:

The main prayer hall of the mosque with red stone structure looks absolutely stunning. The chamber is beautifully designed with petal decorations and ornate pillars with book shelves all along. Scattered book shelves in the chamber keep spreading the message of Islam: God is merciful, all-powerful and unique (there is only one God). Prophet Muhammad is considered to be the messenger of God.

Bathing pond in the courtyard:

The entrance to the courtyard leads to a bathing tank in the centre. In Muslim tradition, it is expected to perform a purification ritual called Wudu, requiring to wash faces, hands, arms and feet before offering prayers.

Bathing pond in courtyard at Taj-Ul-Masajid, Bhopal - Crown of the mosques, largest mosque in India

Hostel in Darul Uloom:

The students have free access to the hostel rooms of Darul Uloom. Apart from the religious studies, the students are also encouraged for games and physical training.

Darul Uloom at Taj-Ul-Masajid, Bhopal - Crown of the mosques, largest mosque in India

Main entrance to the mosque:

The main entrance to the mosque is the eastern gate which was renovated during the reconstruction phase. The gate was embellished by ancient motifs from circa 1250 Syrian mosques, gifted by the Emir of Kuwait.

Eastern Gate of Taj-Ul-Masajid, Bhopal - Crown of the mosques, largest mosque in India

Taj-Ul-Masajid overlooking Taj Mahal of Bhopal

One side of the Taj-Ul-Masajid complex opens up to Motia Lake and Taj Mahal Palace of Bhopal. This royal palace was built by Shah Jahan Begum in Indo-Gothic architectural style in 1884. After India's partition in 1947, the palace was given to Sindhi refugees for a stay of 4 years, during which it went through significant damages. Some of the royal families that stayed in the palace thereafter couldn't afford the repairs and they abandoned the palace. The palace was declared as a heritage monument by the state and it is now being renovated to be used as a heritage hotel.

Taj Mahal of Bhopal - view from Taj-Ul-Masajid - Crown of the mosques, largest mosque in India

Expert Guide on Times Passion Trails:

I had visited Taj-Ul-Masajid as a part of Culture and Heritage Trail in Madhya Pradesh with Times Passion Trails. We had the privilege of learning the history of Taj Ul Masajid by Jamal Ayub, the editor of Times of India, Bhopal. He shared in-depth information about past, present and future of the entire area around the mosque.

Learning history of Taj-Ul-Masajid from Jamal Ayub - editor of Times of India, Bhopal

Jehan Numa Retreat in Bhopal:

Times Passion Trails had hosted us at Jehan Numa Retreat in Bhopal, at the edge of a lush green forest of Van Vihar National Park. Experiencing living in this exquisite property felt like being in relationship with nature. The luxurious rooms are designed with earthy elements, opening up to an open-air shower on one side and a sitting area in the garden on the other side. The refillable copper bottles in the room specially won my heart!

Luxury Suite - Jehan Numa Retreat Bhopal

Who wouldn't want to spend those extra hours at breakfast and dinners Under the Jamun Tree??!!! Yes, the signature outdoor restaurant of Jehan Numa Retreat is eloquently named "Under the Jamun Tree". And it's not just the ambience that connects you with nature, even the food mimics the freshness of the ingredients from their in-house farm produce. Jehan Numa Retreat made my time spent in Bhopal absolutely worth!

Breakfast Under the Jamun Tree - signature restaurant of Jehan Numa Retreat

This trip was curated by Times Passion Trails in collaboration with Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board.

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Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - my outdoor history classroom

4/1/2020

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Madhya Pradesh, the heart of Incredible India, is embellished with culturally rich ancient heritage of India. Indian heritage has time and again proved to be a beautiful means to understand the existence of mankind and evolution of life. Travel has been an addiction for me, only because of the way it has shaped me as a person. I have a strong gratitude for travel as it helps me quench my thirst for learning the natural processes. While those countless moments with nature helped me connect with myself, my eagerness for learning different ways of life kept growing on my mind. I have been overwhelmed by what our country has to offer with its rich heritage and diversity.

I recently embarked on a Culture and Heritage Trail in Madhya Pradesh, the heart of Incredible India with Times Passion Trails. Apart from cherishing the beautiful destinations, this handcrafted trail gave me a chance to immerse myself in the culture of Madhya Pradesh. I took a journey back in time as I lived the stories of human life from the prehistoric Stone Age to the current era of modern history.

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Khajuraho Temples

Bhimbetka Rocks Shelters (UNESCO World Heritage site):

I walked into the Stone Age around 100,000 years back (8000 BCE) as I entered the Bhimbetka caves which were home to prehistoric man. This was the time when human life had evolved to stand up on hindlegs and use the forelegs as hands to manipulate objects & tools. The ancestors have left behind some traces for us in the form of paintings on the rocks. These paintings depict how the humans had started observing animals, using them for his daily needs and eventually using them for fights against bigger animals.
My thoughts: Survival and self-protection from bigger animals had become the necessity.

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Bhimbetka Rock Shelters - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Bhimbetka Rock Shelters - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Sanchi Stupa (UNESCO World Heritage site):

I then progressed to 300 BCE, when emperor Asoka was propagating Buddhism by establishing Buddhist monuments across the country, to share the message of overcoming suffering and attaining Nirvana. The Stupa of Sanchi was built to preserve the relics of Lord Buddha which was later destroyed by the successor ruler. The Stupa was rebuilt and decorated with gateways (Toranas) with intricate carvings of buddhist moral tales from Buddha's life called Jatakas.
My thoughts: Man was influenced by power & destruction, hence needed teachings to find inner peace.

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Sanchi Stupa - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Udayagiri caves:

I walked into the 4th century (400 CE) astronomical centre which once existed in the caves of Udayagiri possibly due to its then location on the tropic of cancer. The sculptures and inscriptions of activities related to Hindu-calendar and sundials give insights to Hindu astronomy. The king later transformed the caves into Hindu temples to restore the concept of Hindu king as a supreme leader and devotee of Lord Vishnu. The caves are oldest surviving Hindu temples with iconography from Vaishnavism, Shaktism and Shaivism. The Varaha avatar of Vishnu rescuing goddess earth from the cosmic sea is the most iconic cave here.
My thoughts: Man had started learning the concept of leadership to protect the people of their kingdom. And, astronomy existed back then too!!!!!

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Udayagiri Caves

Khajuraho Temples (UNESCO World Heritage site):

I advanced to 10th century (950-1050 CE) as I explored the site of Khajuraho group of temples important to Shiva - one who destroys and recycles life, controlling the cosmic dance of time, evolution and dissolution. The temples are masterpieces of ancient Indian art, richly decorated with carved statues, depicting the goals of life as per Hinduism - dharma (duty), kama (desire), artha (purpose) and moksha (liberation). The temples remained abandoned for centuries under Islamic rule, yet remained protected from being vandalised due to its remoteness. However, the temples were secretly used by yogis on a regular basis and by Hindu pilgrims on occasion of Shivratri.
My thoughts: Selective men had started practising Yoga to advance mentally, physically and spiritually.

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Khajuraho Temples - UNESCO World Heritage Site

Chanderi:

I stood in 11th century to get a glimpse of Chanderi, a town which tells its stories through ruined temples, underground palaces and captured forts. Chanderi was captured multiple times by different rulers as it fell on important trading route of the ancient time.
My thoughts: Money had made existence in man's life and he started invading other's land for greed.

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Chanderi - Bird's eye view

Orchha:

I moved on to 15th century to live a day in the royal kingdom of Bundelkhand. Orchha is a tiny medieval town on the banks of river Betwa, which was a princely state for the Bundela kings. Orchha was gifted to the Bundela king by a Mughal Emperor as a token of their friendship. A day of walk in the town took me to marvellous palaces, forts, temples and cenotaphs displaying Mughal influenced Rajput architecture.
My thoughts: Man had started making friends with invaders, establishing cross-communal relationship.

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Orchha - Princely state of Bundelkhand

Taj Ul Masajid:

I headed to 18th century to find myself in Taj-Ul-Masajid which is claimed to be the crown of all mosques. The mosque was being built by the queen in the 1860s, however, due to lack of funds, it was not completed. In 1950, a religious leader took up the initiative of establishing a madrasa, an Islamic educational & religious institute and in 1971, he took up the work for completion of mosque through the funds he received as donations which stood complete in 1985, after more than a century of its initiation. The madrasa is an operational school till date and the mosque is visited by many pilgrims across the world.
My thoughts: Religion has started dividing man!

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Taj-Ul-Masajid , Bhopal - largest mosque in India

Bhojeshwar Shiva Temple:

Forwarding to 20th century, I stand in front of an incomplete story of what could have been one of the largest Shiva temple of India which houses 27feet tall Shiva lingam. The construction of temple had started in the 11th century which seems to have stopped abruptly due to unknown reasons. The unfinished statues and carved rocks still lie around the temple in ruins. The weathered temple was taken over by ASI for restoration and was made operational in 2005. In 2020, I stand here with the renowned archeologist of India, KK Muhammed, hearing this story from the man himself who worked on the restoration of this huge temple.
My thoughts: Scope for man to complete the incomplete stories??

Indian Cultural Heritage in Madhya Pradesh - Bhojeshwar Shiva Temple, Bhopal

Here, I stand in the year 2020, grasping all of it and thinking about the warmth and acceptance India has shown since the historic times. The cultural diversity that still exists in Incredible India says this in multiple ways, over and over again.
Just because I never agreed to learn history from school books, I feel blessed to be given one more chance to learn it, practically, at a time when I'm ready to perceive it the most!

P.S. This trip was curated by Times Passion Trails in collaboration with Madhya Pradesh Tourism Board

Related Posts:

Sanchi Stupa

Orchha - a hidden gem

Khajuraho Temples

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​1. Adventure Travel for Physical Wellbeing

​Physical fitness for outdoor adventures

Healthy diet & eating habits

​​2. Adventure Travel for Mental Wellbeing

​Boosting confidence, overcoming fears

​Building resilience & flexibility

​Digital detox

Social connect

Continued learning & personal growth

​3. Adventure Travel for Spiritual Wellbeing

​Self awareness & acceptance

​Living in the present

Broadening my perspectives

Sense of gratitude for life

Secret Affair with Nature

Conservation of rich biodiversity through Afforestation efforts

​​Protection of cultural heritage & ethnic tribes in Annapurna region

​Building trekking trails with stone steps and suspension bridges

Strategic positioning of Teahouses & Lodges on trekking trails

​Training of lodge owners

Fixed prices for lodges and food menus

Micro hydro-electric generators

Lodges with solar water heater and efficient stoves

Safe drinking water stations / ban on mineral water bottles

Protection of environment by effective garbage collection

Health posts and mobile networks for safety of trekkers

Adequate Information about the trekking trails for solo trekking

​Organic farming in the Himalayas

Community Development Centre - Ghandruk

​Different trekking routes in the Annapurna Himalayan Range

​Annapurna Base Camp trek difficulty

​Tea-houses on Annapurna Base Camp Trekking route

Accommodation, food & other facilities in the lodges on trekking route to Annapurna Base Camp

What to pack for Annapurna Base Camp trek

​Is it possible to trek solo to Annapurna Base Camp

Best time to trek to Annapurna Base Camp

​Permits required for Annapurna Base Camp Trek

How to reach to the start point of Annapurna Base Camp Trek

Ghandruk Village, Nepal - Gateway to Annapurna Base Camp

​How to reach Ghandruk from Pokhara / Kathmandu:

​Day1: Ghandruk(1940m) - Jhinu Danda(1780m) - Chhomrong(2170m)Distance:8 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day2: Chhomrong(2170m) - Sinuwa(2360m) - Bamboo(2145m)Distance:11 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day3: Bamboo(2145m) - Dovan(2520m) - Himalaya(2920m) - Deurali(3200m)​Distance:10 kms / Duration: 6-7 hrs

Day4: Deurali(3200m) - MBC(3700m) - ABC(4130m)Distance:7 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day5: Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) - Himalaya (2920m)Distance:13 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day6: Himalaya (2920m) - Chhomrong (2170m)Distance:15 kms / Duration: 6-7 hrs

Day7: Chhomorong (2170m) - Ghandruk (1940m) - PokharaDistance:8 kms / Duration: 4-5 hrs

​How to plan Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal:

​Unique Newari Architecture and Cultural Heritage in Bandipur

Bandipur Bazaar for ancient trans-Himalayan Trade

​Local Newari Community in Bandipur, Nepal

Notre Dame Secondary School in Bandipur, Nepal

​Bandipur - Nepal’s best kept secret travel destination

​Places to visit in Bandipur, Nepal

The Old Inn, Bandipur - Heritage Newari Guesthouse

How to reach Bandipur from Kathmandu / Pokhara

​Story behind discovery of Khajuraho Temples famous for erotism

Erotic Sculptures on Khajuraho Temples

Secular Sculptures of Ancient Human Life on Khajuraho Temples

​Goals of Human Life based on Hinduism on Khajuraho Temples

Finest of Indian Art and Architecture on Khajuraho Temples

Geometric Wonders of Khajuraho Temples

Religious Acceptance of Khajuraho Temples

Khajuraho Group of Temples: Symbolism of a Cosmos

Sacred Union of The Divine: The Ultimate Truth

​Orchha Fort Complex

Raja Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

Jahangir Mahal in Orchha Fort Complex

Phool Bagh & Dinman Hardaul Palace in Orchha Fort Complex

​Ram Raja Temple in Orchha

​Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha

Royal Chhatris / Cenotaph of Bundela King​s in Orchha

Wildlife & Birding in Orchha Wildlife Sanctuary

Amar Mahal - Luxury Stay in Orchha overlooking the Cenotaphs

​Royal Palatial food experiences by Times Passion Trails

​Origin of Buddhism in Ancient India

​Propagation of Buddhism by Asoka in Indian Subcontinent

Evolution of Sanchi Stupa - the best Buddhist monument of India

Toranas - the decorative gateways of Sanchi Stupa

Jatakas - the moral tales of Buddhism

1. Adventure Travel for Physical Wellbeing

Physical fitness for outdoor adventures

2. Adventure Travel for Mental Wellbeing

Boosting confidence, overcoming fears

Building resilience & flexibility

Digital detox

3. Adventure Travel for Spiritual Wellbeing

Self awareness & acceptance

Living in the present

Protection of cultural heritage & ethnic tribes in Annapurna region

Building trekking trails with stone steps and suspension bridges

Training of lodge owners

Organic farming in the Himalayas

Different trekking routes in the Annapurna Himalayan Range

Annapurna Base Camp trek difficulty

Tea-houses on Annapurna Base Camp Trekking route

Is it possible to trek solo to Annapurna Base Camp

Permits required for Annapurna Base Camp Trek

How to reach Ghandruk from Pokhara / Kathmandu:

Day1: Ghandruk(1940m) - Jhinu Danda(1780m) - Chhomrong(2170m)
Distance:8 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day2: Chhomrong(2170m) - Sinuwa(2360m) - Bamboo(2145m)
Distance:11 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day3: Bamboo(2145m) - Dovan(2520m) - Himalaya(2920m) - Deurali(3200m)
Distance:10 kms / Duration: 6-7 hrs

Day4: Deurali(3200m) - MBC(3700m) - ABC(4130m)
Distance:7 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day5: Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) - Himalaya (2920m)
Distance:13 kms / Duration: 5-6 hrs

Day6: Himalaya (2920m) - Chhomrong (2170m)
Distance:15 kms / Duration: 6-7 hrs

Day7: Chhomorong (2170m) - Ghandruk (1940m) - Pokhara
Distance:8 kms / Duration: 4-5 hrs

How to plan Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Nepal:

Unique Newari Architecture and Cultural Heritage in Bandipur

Local Newari Community in Bandipur, Nepal

Bandipur - Nepal’s best kept secret travel destination

Places to visit in Bandipur, Nepal

Story behind discovery of Khajuraho Temples famous for erotism

Goals of Human Life based on Hinduism on Khajuraho Temples

Orchha Fort Complex

Ram Raja Temple in Orchha

Chaturbhuj Temple in Orchha

Royal Chhatris / Cenotaph of Bundela Kings in Orchha

Royal Palatial food experiences by Times Passion Trails

Origin of Buddhism in Ancient India

Propagation of Buddhism by Asoka in Indian Subcontinent

Interesting history behind the completion of Taj-Ul-Masajid:

Bathing pond in the courtyard:

Main entrance to the mosque:

Taj-Ul-Masajid overlooking Taj Mahal of Bhopal

Expert Guide on Times Passion Trails:

Bhimbetka Rocks Shelters (UNESCO World Heritage site):

Sanchi Stupa (UNESCO World Heritage site):

Udayagiri caves:

Khajuraho Temples (UNESCO World Heritage site):

Chanderi:

Orchha:

Taj Ul Masajid:

Bhojeshwar Shiva Temple: