Bandipur, Nepal - a charming Newari heritage town in Himalayas: offbeat place to visit near Pokhara

5/11/2020

Bandipur, a charming little town in the foothills of Himalayas, all the way different from the rest of the destinations in Nepal, is quintessential heritage of Nepalese culture. Hidden in the lower Himalayan ranges, isolated on a hilltop at 1050m, Bandipur is absolutely off the beaten track. Just a 2-hour drive from Pokhara, Bandipur came in as a pleasant surprise after ending my Annapurna Base Camp Trek in Pokhara. Spending a day in Bandipur, without knowing anything about the place, and just going with the flow was the best way to feel absorbed by this place. When the driver stopped the car at the entrance of the town and asked to walk down to the guesthouse, I wasn’t expecting much out of this place. But as soon as I took first few steps in the narrow lanes of Bandipur, I was completely blown away, as this place looked nothing less than a European town with the old-world charm.

Bandipur - most charming town of Nepal, heritage of Newari culture

The quaint town of Bandipur is a perfect location for the ones looking for laid-back time in the Himalayas, without having to worry about the rest of the world!

Bandipur in Nepal - hilltop town hidden in the lower Himalayan range

Unique Newari Architecture and Cultural Heritage in Bandipur

As I kept walking along the cobbled lanes of Bandipur, I couldn’t stop admiring the townhouses on both the sides of the alley. I was so fascinated with the initial glimpses of the town, that my eyes had already started craving for more. After a couple of minutes of walk down the lane, with my focus on the antiquated houses, I realised that I was walking freely without the need of keeping a watch on the road for traffic! Bandipur is completely free of traffic, all the vehicles have to parked outside the gate of of the town. After the third minute of walk, I was in my hotel. I was so driven into a state of intrigue, that immediately after dumping my backpack in the room, I set out to explore this quirky looking town of Bandipur.

Bandipur - most charming town of Nepal, heritage of Newari culture

Without feeling the need to ask for directions or any other information, I was out on the lanes of Bandipur, wandering wherever the road took me. The more I explored, the more I was awed with the vividly coloured Newari architecture houses, covered with flowering vines, giving an attractive vibe of the town. These ancient houses with striking brickwork and unique wood carvings felt like a living museum displaying the indigenous Newari culture.

Houses with Newari architecture in Bandipur, Nepal

Newari houses are generally 3-4 storied, have thick-walls made of bricks and roofs made of clay tiles, an open courtyard, carved windows, rooms with low ceilings and stairs with handrails. Bandipur has gained its importance on the maps of Nepal as a cultural heritage by preserving the traditional Newari houses and not letting the modern buildings replace any of them.

Houses with Newari architecture in Bandipur, Nepal

Bandipur Bazaar for ancient trans-Himalayan Trade

Bandipur was originally a rural self-sufficient village, occupied by the Magar tribe of Nepal. In the 18th century, many Newari families from the merchant community of Kathmandu migrated to Bandipur and developed it into a significant trading centre, known as Bandipur Bazaar, and made it and important stop on the ancient India-Tibet trans-Himalayan trade route. The trade included exchange of herbs, spices, metals, animals, leather, crop yields and various articles between the two countries. During this period, Bandipur flourished and transformed into a town with paved lanes, townhouses, carved windows and doors on the buildings reflecting Newari architecture, brass utensils in the households.

Bandipur Bazaar - ancient trading centre on trans-Himalayan route

On the ground floor, the houses had an open store front facing the street, which made a perfect market place for the people walking in the bazaar. In 1970, a new highway was constructed between Pokhara and Kathmandu, which by-passed Bandipur, which resulted in decline of trade in Bandipur. They say, some things happen for good.. Bandipur fell into a time wrap since then and managed to preserve its ethnic Newari culture.

Newari houses in Bandipur with open store front

Local Newari Community in Bandipur, Nepal

After Bandipur lost its importance as a trading centre, many Newari families moved out of the town to places with better business opportunities. Few families that were left behind, chose to establish their primary businesses elsewhere and maintain their footing in Bandipur with secondary businesses like export of medicinal herbs, produce of silk from silkworms, slate mining, cultivating fruit orchards and farming.

Newari locals in Bandipur engaged in organic farming

The families living in Bandipur are a close-knit community enjoying a peaceful village lifestyle by engaging in their simple daily routines, cut-off from the rest of the world.

simple routine of local Newari community of Bandipur

This kiddo greeted me with a "Namaste" and wanted to talk to me as I was twinning with her in "Pink" :) and her little brother captured this moment for us!

Notre Dame Secondary School in Bandipur, Nepal

In 1985, the establishment of Notre Dame Secondary School, a catholic missionary school, brought Bandipur back on the map of Nepal, by being one of the best schools in Nepal.

Notre Dame Secondary School in Bandipur, Nepal

It was a delight to watch the school kids freely walk on the traffic-free lanes of Bandipur!

School kids freely walking on the traffic-free lanes of Bandipur!

Bandipur - Nepal’s best kept secret travel destination

Not discovered by the crowd, Bandipur still remains a secret travel destination of Nepal as it opened its doors for tourists only after the road development in 2003. With spectacular views of the snow-capped Annapurna Himalayan Range, beautiful Newari houses converted to heritage guest houses, warm Nepali hosts welcoming the travellers, cafes serving farm fresh organic food, and having nothing else to do in the tranquil town, I had all the time in the world to connect with myself and absorb the pleasant vibe to the town!

Bandipur - Nepal’s best kept secret travel destination

Places to visit in Bandipur, Nepal

Bandipur Bazaar has turned into a local market for the residents and tourists. Shops for basic essentials, pharmacies, wine shops, ATMs and souvenirs for tourists are lined up on the main street.

Shopping in Bandipur Bazaar

There are some cafes, bakeries and local food joints as well in the bazaar.

Food joints serving local food in Bandipur Bazaar

Apart from the main street of Bandipur Bazaar, there are 3-4 small by-lanes which can be easily covered by foot in a couple of hours. I couldn’t stop my RavenousLegs from walking down the lanes repeatedly, as I was enjoying the absolute freedom - freedom from crowd, traffic, pollution, worries!

Walking around freely in the lanes of Bandipur, Nepal

While carelessly strolling around the town of Bandipur, I came across some distinctive small temples and community areas:

Bindabasini Temple, Bandipur, Nepal:
At the end of the main street of the Bandipur Bazaar, I discovered a pagoda style Hindu temple with beautiful carvings dedicated to goddess Durga, the guardian deity of Bandipur.

Bindabasini Temple, Bandipur, Nepal

Ganesha Temple, Bandipur, Nepal:
Bang opposite to the Bindabasini Temple, is a small pagoda style temple dedicated to Ganesha.

Ganesha Temple, Bandipur, Nepal

Khadga Devi Temple, Bandipur, Nepal:
A small uphill walk through flight of stone steps lead me to another exclusive Hindu temple called Khadga Devi which literally means “goddess of the sword”. The temple has a sword which is considered to be a gift from Shiva and a symbol of Shakti. The sword is taken out once every year during the Dashain festival and remains hidden from everyone else throughout the year.

Khadga Devi Temple, Bandipur, Nepal

Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa / Bandipur Monastery:
Walking through the morning mist, the trail further up the hill took me to a tiny Buddhist Monastery called Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa or just Bandipur Monastery. This is the only monastery in Bandipur.

Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa / Bandipur Monastery

The resident monk passionately talks to the visitors about how he built this monastery after visiting many monasteries in Nepal and India. His wife offered some oranges and a tiny cube of real hard cheese as a warm gesture.

Boudha Sadan Shakyamuni Gompa / Bandipur Monastery

Tin Dhara, Bandipur:
At the end of another by-lane of Bandipur, there’s a local washing area called Tindhara, meaning “three taps”. This washing place gets its water supply from a natural source and the locals actively use it for washing clothes and bathing.

Tin Dhara, Bandipur

Shiva Temple, Bandipur:
Exactly opposite to the Tindhara, there’s a stone temple with a dome, dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Shiva Temple near Teendhara, Bandipur

Hiking Trails:
There are quite a few hiking trails from Bandipur through forests, leading to view points of panoramic vistas of the Himalayan Ranges.

Panoramic views of the Himalayan Ranges in Bandipur, Nepal

The Old Inn, Bandipur - Heritage Newari Guesthouse

My stay at The Old Inn, Bandipur, was actually a cherry on the cake! The stay in the traditional Newari townhouse converted into a guesthouse gave me a complete experience of Newari culture.

The Old Inn, Bandipur - heritage Newari guesthouse

How to reach Bandipur from Kathmandu / Pokhara

Bandipur is easily approached by road from Kathmandu (4-hour drive) and Pokhara(2-hour drive) as it lies on the midway of Kathmandu-Pokhara highway. The 8 km road to Bandipur cuts from a point on the highway called Dumre. There are few direct buses to Bandipur from both the cities. Or you can take any bus on this highway upto Dumre and take a local cab from there on.

Tranquility in Bandipur, Nepal

Bandipur left me greedy for its character, tranquility, cleanliness, minimalism, organic food and more importantly the traffic-free zone! Though I spent just a day in Bandipur, I would love to spend a few months here, connecting with nature and doing absolutely nothing!