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Chadar Trek Tales - Falling into frozen Zanskar River in Ladakh and escaping death

2/15/2014

30 Comments

 

Chadar Trek Tales - Falling into frozen Zanskar River in Ladakh and escaping death

Chadar trek, Ladakh is one of the most popular winter treks in India and one of the most glamorous treks in the world. This trek is considered to be highly difficult as it requires to trek on the frozen Zanskar river in extreme temperatures ranging between -15°C and -30°C. The word "Chadar" means a blanket, referring to the white ice sheets of the frozen river. Zanskar river flows through a steep canyon between Chilling and Zanskar Valley. The locals have been traditionally using this route for trade in winters as the road to Zanskar Valley is blocked due to snowfall. Over the years, the adventurers started walking on the frozen river, making it one of the most beautiful winters treks in India.
Chadar Frozen River Trek - Ladakh, India
Chadar Frozen River Trek - Ladakh, India


​Chadar Trek Route

The Chadar trek starts from a point where the current road ends, somewhere between Chilling and Tilad Sumdo. The 7-days trekking route (with a buffer day) goes upto a village called Nerak and back.
Tilat Sumdo - Shingra Koma - Tibb - Nerak - Shingra Koma - Tilat Sumdo.
The longer village Lingshed and back takea round 11 days of trekking from Tilat Sumdo.
Confluence of Zanskar & Indus rivers in Ladakh, India
Confluence of Zanskar & Indus rivers in Ladakh, India


​Chadar Trek Difficulty

The trekking distance for Chadar trek from Chilling to Nerak and back is around 105 kms, requiring 15-16 kms of walk per day. This trek is almost a flat walk starting an altitude of 3170m and reaching the higher camp at Nerak at 3400m. However, it is considered to be a difficult trek due to the harsh weather conditions. Thorough physical as well as mental preparation for Chadar Trek is highly recommended.
Climate Crisis is a reality and it is affecting our natural resources. Melting of the frozen Zanskar river in Ladakh in winters is posing a serious threat to trekkers each year, making it extremely difficult to complete the Chadar Trek.
Chadar Frozen River Trek, Ladakh, India
Chadar Frozen River Trek, Ladakh, India


Chadar trek is a unique experience

Unlike other treks, Chadar trek is an entirely unique experience of walking on a frozen river along the flowing turquoise river in unbearable weather conditions. Each day on the frozen river was a surprise as we crossed frozen ice slides, waterfalls and caves on the way. Someday I was left thirsty on the entire route as my water bottle wasn’t sealed properly, leaving only frozen ice in the bottle. Someday I woke up in the morning to find my lenses frozen in the lens case. Every morning, I had to dip the case in hot water from the kitchen tent before wearing the lenses. Things like toothpaste, sunscreen, moisturiser and wet wipes remained frozen throughout the trek. I started wrapping important things in my warm clothes to keep them from getting frozen, but there’s a limit to everyone’s imaginations.
Frozen waterfall Chadar trek ladakh
Frozen waterfall Chadar trek ladakh


​Local Ladakhi sledges on the Chadar Trek

Locals of Ladakh are accustomed to use wooden sledges to transport stuff on the frozen river. Our porters and support staff carried camping equipment on these sledges.
Local sledges on chadar trek ladakh
Local sledges on chadar trek ladakh


Alternate routes for broken Chadar

The ice on the river forms and breaks without any notice and in the worst case scenarios an alternate route through the snow-covered steep rocks has to be trailed through. It can snow at any time and leave the trekker guessing if there is ice or water beneath the snow cover.
Broken chadar on chadar trek, Ladakh
Broken chadar on chadar trek, Ladakh


​Camping on Chadar Trek

The trekking day ends by afternoon, and camp is setup. Thankfully, nature has left some flat surfaces on the gorge around the river for us to camp!
Chadar Trek campsite - Camping on Chadar Trek
Chadar Trek campsite


Falling in the frozen river and coming out alive!

On one of the days we had the news that the chadar was broken ahead and was very difficult to cross the waters or the steep rocks on the side-walls. I was walking down the frozen river very cheerfully, with my backpack on my shoulders and camera hanging down my neck. I observed a distinctly marked trail and found it worth clicking. And this happened to be the last picture I clicked on my brand new camera - Panasonic Lumix FZ-200.
Picture
I took a few steps on the trail and this time the micro spikes on my gumboots made a different kind of crackling sound on the ice. Before I could even sense, my leg had already broken the thin layer of ice and made its way through to the water flowing beneath. The feel of ice cold water numbed my leg and my brain together. I controlled the panic inside me and tried to lift up my leg. But the thin sheets of ice couldn’t handle the weight of my body and the backpack and my other leg sunk in too. I was inside the flowing river chest-deep and my hands above the chadar. It was this moment when everything around me became blur and I sensed rare possibility of my survival. I somehow gathered my senses and waved my trekking pole and called for help. There were locals on the trek carrying food items and other necessary camping equipments on the sledges. They saw me and ran towards me, it needed 2 of them to pull me out. Yes, I was pulled out alive and was taken away from that trail, made to rest on the sledges to catch my breath. The helpers advised me to change into fresh clothes soon, but I felt shy doing it on an open trail, so I insisted them to let me walk to a comfortable hidden place to change. I took 5 steps ahead realized that every part of my body has gone numb, I couldn’t move. The helpers then brought me back to the sledge and helped me change into fresh clothes. My boots had a considerable amount of ice in it. Socks, double layer of pants, down jacket, gloves, camera, everything was frozen, rock hard. Luckily I had clothes waterproofed in my backpack. And the only way to warm myself again was to start hiking again. I remember how happy I was to have experienced this “FORCED DIP” in chadar and survived too!

I had removed the batteries from the camera and allowed the camera to naturally dry in the normal temperature for atleast a week after my trek before trying to switch it on, and thankfully the camera had survived too!
​

I don’t have any picture of me sinking in the chadar, but this is how my frozen pants looked like!
Frozen pants after falling into frozen river
Frozen pants after falling into frozen river

​Continue reading my Chadar Trek Tales (part2) - How I managed to complete the trek.

Related Posts :
Picture

Chadar Trek Tales - How climate crisis and broken chadar makes it difficult to complete the trek

Picture

How to prepare for Chadar Frozen River Trek - Zanskar, Ladakh

Picture

Markha Valley Trek - Ladakh

Check out Leh Ladakh Tourism for more information on itineraries and tours in Ladakh.
30 Comments
Dr. Suyash Patankar
3/20/2015 18:54:13

Chaddar trek was indeed a unique experience..... nothing like any of the other treks we had done till then ( and we have done PLENTY !! )
It was more about braving the harsh conditions rather than steep and breathless climbs ...
It was about the most picturesque and at the same time, real rugged, landscape ...
It was about getting enough of ice till we were neck deep ( pun intended ) !!
It was about connecting with self during the frozen moments at night ...
It was something special .... that i long to experience yet again..... and again !!!

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:36:14

Mountains keep calling us Suyash.. and meeting you there was also one of the best experiences I had :)

Reply
Rahul Shah
3/20/2015 18:55:11

Not many people do Chadar and fewer even fall into freezing waters and survive to tell the tale. You've done both. And then kept going while most people would have quit after this incident. Kudos Medhavi. You are really something I tell you. Unmatched Persistence and a will to succeed. You make us Ladakh Bikers look like kids

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:36:01

Thanks a lot Rahul for your motivating words :) but i tell u, biking in Ladakh is something that i'm scared of and you are doing a wonderful job there

Reply
Sejal
3/20/2015 18:56:30

You are brave and blessed equally to survive

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:35:34

Thank u sejal

Reply
Gunjan
3/20/2015 18:57:32

Hi Medhavi,

It's great to read about your experiences. Having been on the chadar myself I couldn't help but imagine the panic and that feeling of being on the verge, before you are pulled back and live to tell the tale! Kudos to the never-say-die spirit :)

Btw I went down in the Chadar myself, could've been the same day that you're talking about. I was lucky enough, though, to find a slightly solid base by the time I was stomach-deep in water which allowed me to crawl up and away to safety. Scary enough. Can only imagine what you must've felt like! :)

Cheers!
Gunjan

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:35:19

Hey gunjan, kudos to the never-say-die spirit :)
I didn't know you had gone down too, i guess we had to meet on the chadar!
I dont need to say anything more than - it is a blessing to have experienced the real, scary chadar.
Cheers

Reply
NomadicRider
3/20/2015 18:58:33

Thats a really scary experience and thumbs up to your spirit!! Reminds me of Edmund Hillary's famous one liner - Its not the Mountains we conquer but ourselves. In my experience, Mountains teach humans to be humble and helpful, and the locals silently exhibit this qualities.

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:35:02

Thanks a lot NomadicRider. Great line you just quoted! Respect to the mountains..

Reply
Nikks
3/20/2015 18:59:28

Alwayz gud to hear your adventourous stories.Really nice narration dear.Keep up the good spirit....!!!

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:34:49

Thank you so much Nikks. You too have a good collection of stories, start sharing. And happy traveling :)

Reply
Vaibhav Yagnik
3/20/2015 19:04:27

Omg. I don't want to imagine what might have happened if you would have been pulled by the current! Safety first!
On the other hand good that nothing happened. The picture of your frozen pants indeed gives me the shivers

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:34:21

Neither do I want to imagine that Vaibhav! I've had near-to-death experiences with most of my adventure trips. I'll want to write about all of them. I've just been very lucky everytime

Reply
Rinkal
3/20/2015 19:05:19

muuuah meddy...

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:33:55

Love u too rinku :*

Reply
Travelure link
3/23/2015 12:36:27

Hats off, frozen pants! I salute your spirit!

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:33:39

Thanks for the appreciation, Ajay!

Reply
Alka Kaushik
3/23/2015 12:51:44

I was never inclined for Chadar trek and Swati Jain was always after my life to 'do chadar' in the season just gone by. I couldn't say No to the super excited girl but at the same time I was not ready physically, mentally and also financially to go on another trek after just having been to Mt Kailash a few months back. Then Nature did the trick and you all know the rest of the story.... but that was then. I will go now for sure and you are the reason Medhavi Davda ..wonderfully written post, engaging and interesting and inspiring!

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:33:16

Thank you so much Alka for the motivating words. You should do Chadar, it's definitely a very different trek! Keep your fingers crossed for the weather for next year. I have written one more post on chadar, i'll share that soon. I'm sure you'll be tempted even more then

Reply
Swati Jain
3/23/2015 13:41:10

By god amazing piece Medhavi Davda. Not d frozen zanskar but I had d pleasure of falling into this lake while rafting. I myself got numb in 2 mins and iam talking about summers. So I can well imagine what the dip in chadar would have been. But nothing can compensate the memory we take along. Hoping to catch Chadar this season

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:33:03

Thanks Swati Jain Ladakh definitely deserves 2 visits - winters and summers. Both are exceptional in their own ways. Good luck for Chadar next season. Do go!!

Reply
Harshit
1/11/2017 22:48:40

quite a story ma'am. Bravo.. I haven't got the chance yet to travel through this trek.visited Ladakh in the month of Aug last year (kind a summer with bearable temperature) so I would like to visit in winter once (it is a dream for me to see Ladakh in winter)..Once again..thanks for posting your experiences. I think it will help many in some way or the other

Reply
Medhavi Davda link
11/26/2022 18:32:44

Thank u so much Harshit.

Reply
Amit Sinha
4/23/2017 15:20:37

I would say its the most treacherous trek I ever did. With all usual difficulty I was so happy that I did well and just two days away from Ladakh and then just a fall and I landed on my left elbow with full body weight into and awkward position. I fractured my elbow, had to trek another two days to Ladakh to get some treatment. Climbing rocks to circumvent river where Chadar has melted with one hand was not easy. But hey at the end it was an amazing experience !

Reply
Satyam singh link
12/4/2020 19:07:45

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I came through this blog by chance and found this great and useful content on chadar frozen river trek and I will definitely be updated through your blog. Keep sharing!

Reply
Aamir link
12/15/2020 11:08:40

Well done.. you have done a marvelous job. Being a ladakhi I know how hard Chadar trek is. Chadar trek is being done by people of zanskar village during winter when road gets blocked.

Reply
Shruti
10/17/2021 13:29:02

Hi medhavi,

Very curious to know which trekking group you traveled with and if any suggestions on this front.

Reply
India Tourism link
7/30/2022 07:45:29

So Beautiful trip, You are really so Great, and your laddakh Journey so Awesome

Reply
Dolly Mehta link
1/24/2023 19:12:48

Thanks for the in-depth wonderful article you turned out here Enjoyed reading the article above and thank you for sharing good knowledge and information it’s very helpful. I was searching for a travel blog and found your blog site. I like your high-quality blog site design plus your posting abilities. Keep doing it

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    Author

    Picture
    Namaste! I'm Medhavi Davda.
    I travel to Evolve..
    In Nature, I confide..
    I find my calling in the Himalayas..
    In the Oceans, I meditate..

    ​
    A High-Altitude Trekker & PADI certified SCUBA Diver, I love exploring the heights and depths of the planet with my regular doses of mountains and oceans.
    ​
    Discovering myself & life through nature, adventures, travels, sports and dance has been an addiction since my existence!

    Quite fond of the  natural & cultural diversity of India, I've travelled extensively in my own country before exploring international destinations.
    ​
    I had left my 9+ yrs of career in Software Industry in a quest to make a living out of my passions. I packed my basics in my car (gave away the rest) and lived in different parts of Himachal Pradesh for 16 months. This invaluable time taught me to experience life from a broader perspective.
    ​
    I'm currently living in Mumbai to work with an Adventure Travel company as a product manager for Scuba Diving. I continue living a minimalistic life.

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