Chadar Trek Tales - How climate crisis and broken chadar makes it difficult to complete the trek

Chadar Trek Tales - How climate crisis and broken chadar makes it difficult to complete the trek

Chadar Trek was my first ever experience of coming face to face with climate crisis and the effects of global warming. Chadar trek in Ladakh is a unique experience for adventure seekers for its glamorous frozen river trail crossing through frozen ice sheets, ice slides, waterfalls and caves on Zanskar river. Traditionally this trail has been used by the locals of Ladakh for trade as it is the only option connecting Leh to Zanskar Valley in the winter when the river forms thick ice sheets on the surface. The extremely harsh weather condition of winters in Ladakh had kept this region untouched by outsiders for many years. Few foreigners started venturing out on this trail with locals for adventure and eventually, Chadar Trek became a very popular winter trek of India. 

Frozen waterfall at Nerak, Chadar Trek, Ladakh

​Global Warming - a foreseen threat to Chadar Trek in Ladakh

When I attempted Chadar Trek in the year 2014, the trail was moderately popular, however, I had a firsthand experience of the threat of Chadar Trek coming to an end in the near future.
​Zanskar River in Ladakh which once remained completely frozen in the winter months (December to February) with the temperatures ranging from -10 degrees to -35 degrees, had started seeing a meltdown already. The unfrozen patches on the river and the broken and melting the ice sheets posed a threat to the trekkers trying to cross the frozen river. The window for Chadar trek had reduced to only a month (mid-Jan to mid-Feb). Beneath this threat to the adventurers, lied the bigger threat to humanity when the effects of climate crisis appeared more aggressive. ​

Chadar Trek, Ladakh, India

Learning the effects of Climate Crisis with personal experience

I had taken the 7-days trail to Chadar Trek from Tilad Sumdo to Nerak and back. On the third day, I had a near-death experience of falling into the frozen river on Chadar Trek through the broken ice sheets.
The fall in chadar was scary and the story doesn’t end there. My survival felt like a new life to me, only to go ahead with the adventures life had in store for me. Chadar was actually broken a few mtrs ahead of my fall. And it wasn’t possible for anyone to cross the 0 degrees chest deep waters. Few trekkers had planned a buffer day while booking their return tickets, so they had the luxury to try their luck and stay back for 1 day and hope for the chadar to form, which used to be a higher probability earlier. The others, because of the corporate pressure and tight leaves had to return right away. We waited at the previous campsite, praying for the chadar to form and all the local helpers gave us hopes by giving examples of chadar being formed in maximum of 8 hours. But I know, the global warming was playing its own part too, with greater vigour every year. The next morning again, with great enthusiasm and hopes we started hiking again, and stopped at the same point. The chadar was too stubborn to form this time even in 24 hours.  And I had to return back to Leh with everyone else. Leaving the Chadar Trek incomplete and going back to Leh was the most disappointing thing for everyone. It’s not definitely easy to manage leaves for the same trek again and the chadar is frozen hardly for a month in winters.

Chadar Trek, Ladakh - cave

The ​thoughtful decision of not giving up!

My crazy and greedy soul just didn’t let me settle with this fate. I just couldn’t go back home! My intuition told me that chadar would form in next 3 days for sure! And the fear of Chadar Trek becoming extinct sooner, pulled me into thinking about paying 10k extra and reschedule my tickets, convincing my manager to extend my leaves, talking to parents about this crazy decision of staying back or taking the decision of just going back. No, that’s definitely not me! I couldn't give up. I could put everything on stake to satisfy my soul, which is definitely not chasing promotions in office.

I managed to inform my parents and manager and got help from a friend to reschedule my flights. Yes, I left for the trek again. Few people did try to demotivate me by making me think of possibility of the chadar being broken this time too. But I fear not trying, more than the failure. All the helpers and locals on the trail had started identifying me and I tell you, these locals are so cheerful and hopeful about everything, they bring in a positive vibe quite effortlessly

Camping on Chadar Trek - Ladakh, India.

Ladakhi locals with sledges on chadar trek

Celebrating my perseverance!

In my head I was still thinking, “If my manager had given me an option to either come back or quit the job and go ahead, I would have still selected this undoubtedly”

Because this time, the chadar was as cheerful as I am and I could actually make it up to the most glamorous sight of the world – The huge magnificent frozen waterfall, the phenomenon of which still is a mystery. The patch of chadar that was broken last time was still weak. While I was carefully walking through the patch, one super enthusiastic guy with a wide smile on his face hurried to match up to my speed and asked "So, how was your experience of falling into chadar?" I don't know what made me irritated at him, I said "You need to be there and experience it to understand" and while taking the next step ahead, I turned back to see his expressions on my reply and I just couldn't stop laughing when I saw his legs actually sunk into the chadar at the very same place. He kept complaining that instead of helping him, I was laughing out loud. Can anyone blame me for this.

Chadar Trek Ladakh

Hike to traditional Ladakhi village - Nerak at height of 4000m

I was one of the lucky trekkers who could hike to the Nerak village 2000ft above chadar. This narrow trail has caused lot of injuries and few deaths because of its steep uphill climb on a slippery trail. 

Nerak village at height 4000m - Chadar Trek, Ladakh

Kids playing at Nerak village at height 4000m - Chadar Trek, Ladakh

Chadar trek was an exceptional experience. The days were spent on blanket of ice and the nights under the blanket of stars. The stars were so close, so bright and so many. If only I could stay there forever..

Chadar Trek - Blanket of snow / blanket of stars

I went back to my office, all the clients in US knew that I was stuck in bad weather and after hearing my adventure stories they were only insisting me on sharing my snaps with them. I can’t thank my manager enough to encourage me so much, it is difficult to find such encouraging managers in corporates and I would never miss a chance to be grateful to him.

Glamorous Frozen waterfall at Nerak, Chadar Trek, Ladakh

​Latest updates on the climate crisis affecting Chadar Trek

Global warming, over tourism, irresponsible human activities and negligence of the fragile ecology of Ladakh have posed a serious threat to the local life and organisers of Chadar Trek. The ice forms and breaks on the river after every few hours. And, in some places, the chadars or ice sheets do not even form. The frozen river looks nothing less than a carnival ground with bursting campsites.
Since 2018, there have been serious incidents of fatalities and rescue operations of trekkers stuck due to broken chadar.
The local authorities have started issuing permits to limit the footprint. They also made 3 days of acclimatisation before the trek, health checkup and insurance mandatory for all the trekkers. Responsible & Sustainable Tourism is the only way forward in the fragile ecologies of Himalayan Regions. However, if the situation remains uncontrollable, there is a possibility of a complete ban on the chadar trek. 

​
Related Posts:

Chadar Trek Tales - Falling into frozen Zanskar River in Ladakh and escaping death

How to prepare for Chadar Frozen River Trek - Zanskar, Ladakh

Markha Valley Trek, Ladakh - a trail through the most colouful mountains