Chadar Trek Challenges: Climate Crisis and the Future of Winter Treks in Ladakh

Chadar Trek Tales: Climate Change and the Melting Trails of Ladakh

Chadar Trek, Ladakh, was my first ever experience of coming face to face with climate crisis and the effects of global warming. Chadar Trek also known as the Zanskar Valley trek in Ladakh, is a unique experience for adventure seekers for its glamorous frozen river trail crossing through frozen ice sheets, ice slides, waterfalls, and caves on the Zanskar River. Traditionally, this trail has been used by the locals of Ladakh for trade as it is the only option connecting Leh to the Zanskar Valley in the winter when the river forms thick ice sheets on the surface. The extremely harsh weather conditions of winters in Ladakh have kept this region untouched by outsiders for many years. Few foreigners started venturing out on this trail with locals for adventure, and eventually, Chadar Trek became a very popular winter trek of India. ​

Frozen waterfall at Nerak, Chadar Trek, Ladakh

​Global Warming - a foreseen threat to Chadar Trek in Ladakh

In 2014, when I attempted the Chadar Trek, the trail was moderately popular. However, I had a firsthand experience of the imminent threat of Chadar Trek coming to an end.
The Zanskar River in Ladakh, which used to remain completely frozen during the winter months (December to February) with temperatures ranging from -10 degrees to -35 degrees, had already started melting. The unfrozen patches on the river and the broken and melting ice sheets posed a significant threat to the trekkers attempting to cross the frozen river. The window for the Chadar Trek had been reduced to only a month (mid-January to mid-February).
Beneath this threat to the adventurers, a much bigger threat to humanity emerged when the effects of climate crisis became more aggressive. ​

Chadar Trek, Ladakh, India

​Learning the effects of Climate Crisis with personal experience

I had embarked on the 7-day trail to Chadar Trek, starting from Tilad Sumdo and returning to Nerak. On the third day, I had a harrowing experience of falling into the frozen river on Chadar Trek, trapped beneath the broken ice sheets.

The descent into Chadar was terrifying, and the story didn’t end there. My survival felt like a new life, a chance to embrace the adventures that awaited me. Chadar, however, was actually broken a few meters ahead of my fall, making it impossible for anyone to cross the chest-deep, freezing waters.

A few trekkers had planned a buffer day while booking their return tickets, giving them the luxury to attempt their luck and stay back for an extra day, hoping for the chadar to form, which used to be a more probable occurrence earlier. Others, however, were bound by corporate pressure and tight leaves, forcing them to return immediately.

We waited at the previous campsite, praying for the chadar to form, and the local helpers offered us hope by sharing examples of chadar forming within 8 hours. But I knew that global warming was also playing its part, intensifying its effects with each passing year.

The next morning, with renewed enthusiasm and hope, we resumed our hike, only to find ourselves at the same point. This time, the chadar was stubbornly refusing to form, even after 24 hours. Disappointed, I had to return to Leh with everyone else, leaving the Chadar Trek incomplete.

Returning to Leh was the most disappointing experience for everyone. Managing leaves for the same trek again proved challenging, and the chadar rarely forms for a month during the winter.

Chadar Trek, Ladakh - cave

The ​thoughtful decision of not giving up!

My restless and greedy spirit refused to accept this fate. I couldn’t bear the thought of returning home! My intuition told me that the chadar would form within the next three days, and the fear of its extinction prompted me to consider paying an additional 10,000 rupees and rescheduling my tickets. I convinced my manager to extend my leaves and spoke with my parents about this unconventional decision: either stay back or return home. But no, that wasn’t me! I couldn’t give up. I was willing to risk everything to satisfy my soul, which wasn’t driven by the pursuit of promotions in the office.

I managed to inform my parents and manager and received assistance from a friend in rescheduling my flights. Yes, I embarked on the trek once again. A few individuals attempted to demotivate me by suggesting that the chadar might break this time as well. However, I was more afraid of not trying than of failing. All the helpers and locals on the trail had begun to recognize me, and I must say, these locals are incredibly cheerful and optimistic about everything. They effortlessly bring a positive energy to the journey.

Camping on Chadar Trek - Ladakh, India.

Ladakhi locals with sledges on chadar trek

Celebrating my perseverance!

In my mind, I was still contemplating, “If my manager had given me the option to either return or quit the job and proceed, I would have undoubtedly chosen this option.”

This time, the chadar was as cheerful as I am, and I could finally reach the most magnificent sight of the world—the enormous, magnificent frozen waterfall, a phenomenon that still remains a mystery. The patch of chadar that had been broken the previous time was still vulnerable. As I carefully navigated through the patch, a super enthusiastic guy with a wide smile on his face hurried to catch up to my pace and asked, “So, how was your experience of falling into chadar?” I can’t quite recall what irritated me about him, but I responded, “You need to be there and experience it to understand.” As I took the next step forward, I turned back to see his expressions in response to my reply, and I couldn’t help but burst into laughter when I saw his legs actually sink into the chadar at the very same spot. He kept complaining that instead of helping him, I was laughing out loud. Can anyone blame me for this?

Chadar Trek Ladakh

Hike to traditional Ladakhi village - Nerak at height of 4000m

I was one of the fortunate trekkers who had the privilege of hiking to the Nerak village, which is situated 2000 feet above Chadar. However, this narrow trail has been a cause of numerous injuries and even fatalities due to its steep uphill climb and slippery terrain. 

Nerak village at height 4000m - Chadar Trek, Ladakh

Kids playing at Nerak village at height 4000m - Chadar Trek, Ladakh

​The Chadar trek was an exceptional experience. We spent our days on a blanket of ice and our nights under the blanket of stars. The stars were so close, so bright, and so numerous. I wish I could stay there forever.

Chadar Trek - Blanket of snow / blanket of stars

​I returned to my office. All the clients in the US were aware that I was stuck in bad weather. After hearing my exciting stories, they were only urging me to share my photos with them. I can’t express my gratitude to my manager enough for his encouragement. It’s rare to find such supportive managers in the corporate world, and I would never miss an opportunity to express my appreciation to him.

Glamorous Frozen waterfall at Nerak, Chadar Trek, Ladakh

​Latest updates on the climate crisis affecting Chadar Trek

Global warming, excessive tourism, irresponsible human activities, and the neglect of Ladakh’s fragile ecology pose a severe threat to the local life and the organizers of the Chadar Trek. The ice forms and breaks on the river every few hours, and in some places, the chadars or ice sheets fail to form altogether. The frozen river resembles a carnival ground with bursting campsites.
Since 2018, there have been serious incidents of fatalities and rescue operations for trekkers who get stuck due to broken chadars. In response, the local authorities have begun issuing permits to limit the footprint of the trek. Additionally, they have made three days of acclimatization, a health checkup, and insurance mandatory for all trekkers.
​Responsible and sustainable tourism is the only way forward in the fragile ecologies of the Himalayan regions. However, if the situation remains uncontrollable, there is a possibility of a complete ban on the Chadar Trek.