Markha Valley Trek in Ladakh - a trail through the most colourful mountains

Markha Valley Trek in Ladakh

​Markha Valley Trek in Ladakh, a breathtaking trekking route in the Indian Himalayas, offers a unique blend of stunning mountain landscapes and rich Ladakhi cultural experiences. During my initial trek to Roopkund, I was inspired by a French lady who embarked on a solo trek with a guide. This experience ignited a passion within me for solo trekking, and it quickly became a top priority on my list. Since 2013, I’ve been trekking frequently, gaining valuable experience with various treks, including Roopkund, Chadar, and Kashmir Great Lakes. With each trek, my confidence grew, and in 2014, I decided to take the plunge and embark on a solo trek (with a guide) to Markha Valley. I meticulously planned my route, booked my flights, and shared my exciting adventure with a few friends. As the date approached, my confidence soared, and I found myself motivated to conquer the highest trekking summit of India, Stok Kangri, after completing Markha Valley. The exhilarating rush of high-altitude mountains had become an addiction, and the challenge of trekking solo to Markha Valley and Stok Kangri consumed my thoughts relentlessly.

Purple and Teal green coloured mountains on way to GandaLa - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Difficulty  level: Difficult
Route: Zinchen - Yurutse - Ganda La Base Camp - Ganda La - Skiu - Markha - Thachuntse - Nimaling - Kongmaru La - Shang Sumdo
Total distance covered: 90 km
Passes crossed: Ganda La (4800m/15750 ft), Kongmaru La (5200m/17060 ft)
No. of trekking days: Planned - 7 days (including one rest day at Markha Valley), Actual - 6 days.
​No. of acclimatisation days in Leh before the trek: 2 days
Dates I trekked on: 25 Aug 2014 - 30 Aug 2014
Best time for Markha Valley Trek: July - Aug

​Acclimatisation in Leh before Markha Valley Trek

Acclimatization is the most crucial aspect of any trek in Ladakh. Upon arriving in Leh, you’ll land at an altitude of 3500 meters (11,500 feet). To prevent altitude sickness, I planned to acclimatize in Leh for a few days before embarking on the trek.
On my arrival, I spent some time at the hotel, savoring fresh apricots and sipping ginger lemon honey teas. In the evening, I ventured out to the local market to search for a local guide. Fortunately, I received a call from a guide I had previously trekked with in Kashmir. He was on his way to Leh and was interested in exploring the Markha Valley route. We decided to team up!
Next, I visited Shanti Stupa (though it’s not recommended, I couldn’t resist). As I climbed the steep stairs to the stupa, I felt dizzy. I stopped, sipped some water, and continued slowly. That night, I gazed up at the starry sky and was fortunate enough to witness three shooting stars!
The next day, I set out to explore the monasteries at Likir, Alchi, and Lamayuru.

Shanti Stupa in Leh, Ladakh

​Day1: Zinchen (3380m/11090 ft) - Ganda La Base (4540m/14900 ft) : 8 km / 4 hrs

After a 45-minute drive from Leh to Zinchen, the taxi driver, accompanied by my friend, guided us towards the trail’s beginning and wished us good luck. We steadily and gradually traversed the dry trail through the barren mountains of Ladakh, our curiosity piqued by the mysteries that lay beyond.

Zinchen - starting point of Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​I was delighted to discover a teahouse at Rumbak and a few fellow hikers on the same trail. We engaged in conversation while savoring our noodles and bid farewell to the monk who served us. After a gradual ascent, we reached Yurutse, which offered a homestay. We inquired with the locals about the possibility of proceeding to Ganda La Base Camp. 

Yurutse - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​We found a fixed campsite and a teahouse at the base. Upon reaching GandaLa Base Camp, I experienced a slight headache due to the significant height gain of over 3800 feet on the first day. To alleviate the discomfort, I took a tablet and drank a few glasses of water before going to sleep. The campsite owner woke me up for dinner, after which I fell asleep again.

GandaLa Base Camp - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Day2: Ganda La Base(4540m/14900 ft) - Ganda La(4800m/15750 ft) - Skiu (3400m/11160 ft) : 22 km / 8 hrs 

The next day, I woke up feeling refreshed and prepared to cross the Ganda La pass at an altitude of 4540 meters. The caretaker at the campsite guided us towards the route, which appeared quite steep. The kaleidoscopic landscape, with its dramatic Trans-Himalayan Range of Ladakh, kept me engaged throughout the entire journey. I was mesmerized by the ever-changing colors that the mountains displayed. 

View from GandaLa pass - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​The well-marked trail led us to Ganda La pass, where we celebrated my first accomplishment with a packet of teacakes. Ganda La pass was supposed to offer breathtaking views of Stok Kangri, but unfortunately, the cloud cover prevented us from enjoying the stunning scenery. 

GandaLa pass - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​The descent from Ganda La pass appeared straightforward. After a couple of hours, I took a break at a tea house in Shingo village. There, I met a few trekkers who had decided to turn back at this village and not continue further. I had planned to hike up to Skiu. The trail stretched endlessly, and I finally reached Skiu just before sunset. Exhausted, I decided to rest at the homestay. The lady there served me my favorite ginger lemon tea, which helped me relax after a long and tiring day. The next morning, I woke up early to witness the breathtaking sunrise behind the magnificent Skiu monastery. 

Skiu monastery - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Day3: Skiu (3400m/11160 ft) - Markha (3400m/12370 ft) : 20 km / 8 hrs

After a hearty breakfast, we were ready to embark on another long walk. I was thrilled on this day because I was finally reaching Markha Valley. The Markha River added a touch of glamour to the barren trail. We crossed the river twice using the bridge, and the third time, we had to wade through the icy-cold river with bare feet. We were followed by other trekkers on the route, and we helped each other cross the river.

Markha River - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​Today’s lunch break was at the charming teahouse in Narding village. It was another long day before we reached our destination. The lush green Markha valley, as beautiful as I had heard, was even more captivating. Initially, I had planned to spend a day exploring the valley and giving my legs some rest. However, I must admit, I had started enjoying the journey more than the destination itself. My body and mind had adapted to the daily long and strenuous walks. My thighs had ached for two days, but after the third day, my body stopped perceiving the pain. My legs had become accustomed to walking with the discomfort, and we had decided to continue our journey the next day.

Markha Valley - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Day4: Markha (3400m/12370 ft) - Thochuntse (4010m/13165 ft) : 13 km / 6 hrs

We spent some time with the locals of Markha Valley in the morning and then resumed our walk. The route never failed to amaze me with its diverse landscapes. From the ruins of Tacha Monastery (Kunkhan Gompa) to the intriguing German art of balancing stones, and from the beautifully carved Mani stones adorned with Tibetan Buddhist symbols to the stunning scenery, this route offered a wealth of experiences.

carved Mani stones with Tibetan Buddhist symbols - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​I gradually began to savor the exquisite aspects of this side of Ladakh. I started appreciating the small details about the Ladakhi people and their culture. The ruins also began to impress me.

on the way to Thochuntse - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​I took two breaks: one at the teahouse in Umling village for lunch and another at the teahouse in Hankar village. Since the destination was relatively closer, I wasn’t in a hurry. My pace increased as I acclimatized to the altitude. I arrived at the campsite in Thochuntse in the afternoon.

Thochuntse campsite - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Day5: Thochuntse (4010m/13165 ft) - Nimaling (4730m/15520 ft) : 7 km / 3 hrs

Another day of a short walk on the trail gave me ample time to explore the captivating landscape. I could sit by the pond and observe the yaks grazing peacefully around me. I could also leisurely enjoy the breathtaking views of the majestic Kang Yatse peak in the background. I was feeling quite adventurous about climbing the peak myself, but I was also a bit hesitant due to its technical nature. 

yaks grazing with Kang Yatse peak in backdrop - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​We walked ahead on the orange-colored terrain, drawn to the vividness of the mountains again.

on the way to Nimaling - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​It’s crucial to get a night’s rest in Nimaling before crossing the high-altitude pass of Kongmaru La. The temperature in Nimaling typically drops to between 0 and 5 degrees Celsius. I was fortunate enough to set up my tent before the hailstorm hit Nimaling. I was captivated by the transformation of the brown landscape into a pristine white.

Nimaling campsite - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Day6: Nimaling (4730m/15520 ft) - Kongmaru La (5200m/17060 ft) - Shang Sumdo (3730m/12240 ft) : 18 km / 7 hrs

Kongmaru La pass appeared straightforward from Nimaling, but it proved to be a bit challenging to climb. It was my first time crossing a height of over 17,000 feet. Just as we were about 15-20 minutes away from the pass, the weather took a turn for the worse. 

Kongmaru La pass - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​I was overjoyed when I reached the KongmaruLa pass. I had finally made my dream of trekking solo come true! To celebrate our second remarkable achievement, I had kept a pack of teacakes in reserve for this very moment.

Kongmaru La pass - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​The descent from KongmaruLa to Shang Sumdo was a bit long, but the mountains continued to captivate me with their striking colors. I felt exceptionally content and accomplished after successfully completing my first solo trek.

Homestays and teahouses on Markha Valley Trek

The locals in every village or settlement along the route have graciously opened their homes to trekkers. These homestays offer dormitory-style rooms with clean beds and blankets. They have common dry-toilets, a local custom. The meals are deliciously home-cooked. Accommodation rates are standard throughout the valley. There are numerous signboards along the route guiding trekkers to the homestays in Markha Valley. It’s highly convenient to break your journey at any of these homestays and continue your trek the next day at your own pace. Additionally, the homestays provide the option to pitch your own tent in their designated camping area for a nominal fee. However, GandaLa base camp, Thochuntse, and Nimaling only offer fixed campsites and no homestays.

Homestays - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​Many locals in the Markha Valley region warmly welcome trekkers to their tented teahouses near their homes. These teahouses offer basic food items such as maggi (noodles), tea, dal (lentil soup), and rice. Trekkers can relax, let their hair down, and dry their shoes while enjoying a hot, freshly served lunch. 

Teahouses - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Wildlife spotting on Markha Valley Trek

Before I began observing the captivating creatures on the high mountains, I was completely unaware of the existence of wildlife. However, I had the privilege of getting up close and personal with the Bharals, also known as the Blue Sheep, which was an unforgettable experience. 

Bharal (Blue Sheep) - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

​Even the Chukars appeared appealing.

Chukar - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

My exposure to Ladakhi culture & lifestyle on Markha Valley Trek

The Markha Valley trek completely transformed my perspective on mountains. Before this trek, mountains held a personal significance for me—a symbol of self-achievement and self-confidence, a testament to my strength. However, the Markha Valley trek offered me an extraordinary opportunity to immerse myself in the authentic Ladakhi homestays, where I had the privilege of interacting with the locals. Through these interactions, I gained insights into their unique way of life, a stark contrast to our own. I cherished the simple conversations we shared, and the kindness and generosity displayed by the locals left an indelible mark on me. This trek marked my first exposure to the cultural aspects of travel, an unexpected yet profound experience. It was a stepping stone towards embracing the authentic mountain lifestyle, which gradually became an integral part of my life. As a result, I embarked on a journey of living a basic lifestyle in the Himalayas.

Ladakhi lady - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Tacha Monastery (Kunkhan Gompa) - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Ladakhi kitchen - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Ladakhi school kids - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Ladakhi kid - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Colorful mountains in Ladakh on Markha Valley Trek

I’m still in awe of the psychedelic mountains of Markha Valley! After the trek, I couldn’t stop talking about the vibrant colors of the mountains to everyone.

Trans Himalayan Range - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Golden Trans Himalayan Range - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Riot of colours in Trans Himalayan mountain range - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Kang Yatse peak - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

Friends I made on Markha Valley Trek!

I encountered fascinating individuals on the trek who were traversing the same route at a similar pace as mine. We commenced our day together, supporting one another, taking breaks together, sharing laughter, and even sharing tents. 

Kongmaru La pass - Markha Valley trek in Ladakh

The vibrant mountains of Ladakh, painted with hues of purple, orange, teal and magenta have my heart!
Everything felt so perfect on this trek. Everything felt so perfect on this trek. I realized how much I loved my freedom to walk at my own pace, without anyone asking me to slow down when I felt energetic or hurry up when I wanted to soak in the nature. After successfully completing my solo trek to Markha Valley, my confidence grew multiple folds. I was ready to take on my next adventure to Stok Kangri head-on!