From Cities to Mountains: Making a Home in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Bir, Himachal Pradesh: Living in a quaint Himalayan Village

Bir is a charming village in Kangra district, Himachal Pradesh, nestled in the Dhauladhar Range of the Indian Himalayas. I stumbled upon Bir-Billing and made it my home for three months. After leaving my job in Pune, all I craved was fresh air, clean water, and delicious food. After all, it wasn’t just about quitting my job; I wanted to escape the city and start a new life. And guess what? God exists!
In the mountains, I discovered my “Nirvana Moments.” I was addicted to the Himalayas and always found excuses to visit, even just to catch a glimpse of snow-capped mountains on a weekend. The next thing I wanted to do was experience living in the mountains, like a local, not just a tourist ticking off places to visit in Bir-Billing.
Bir holds a special place in my heart because it was my first step into living in the Himalayas. It was my first time immersing myself in nature and connecting with people. After moving to Bir, my lifestyle changed completely. In this post, I’ll share with you all the different aspects of Bir that I observed, learned, and enjoyed.

Bird's eye view of Bir, Himachal Pradesh. When I flew up in the air

​My home in Bir

When I first landed in Bir, I had no idea what to expect. But when I saw my rented home for the first time, I exclaimed, “Beautiful!” It was a brick-red walled house nestled in the green fields, overlooking the dense forest slopes that led to Billing on the mountain top.

My home in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​The house was basic, lacking any modern design. However, it boasted a terrace that offered a breathtaking view of the clear blue sky and the snow-capped peaks of the Dhauladhar mountains. I couldn’t help but feel envious of my neighbors who resided in the traditional Himachali houses in my neighborhood.

View from my terrace in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​From my terrace, I look up at the endless skies and see colorful parachutes gracefully flying. I could spend hours observing them!

Paragliding in Bir, Himachal Pradesh, the view from my terrace

​Houses in Bir

​The traditional Himachali houses, adorned with vibrant colors, add a touch of beauty to the surrounding greenery, making Himachal a land of vibrant colors. 

Traditional Himachali houses in Bir

​The houses are constructed using local stones, mud, and wood, and their roofs are made of slates. However, due to the limited availability of slates in the state, the new houses are roofed with red metal.

Traditional Himachali houses in Bir

Traditional Himachali houses in Bir

​My mornings in Bir

My mornings, once filled with a frustrating drive through traffic-jammed roads to the office, have been transformed into refreshing routines. Every day, I wake up to foggy mornings that make the place look prettier and cleaner. These are the perfect mornings to enjoy my ginger lemon honey teas.

Foggy mornings in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​After settling in, I began exploring the place on foot. The quiet roads provided ample space for me to enjoy my solitude in the serene atmosphere of Bir.

Buddhist prayer flags on roads in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​The dry leaves made my way through the forested mountains beautiful but tough for my hikes. There were many trails in the mountains that went nowhere, but they provided me with good options for my workout routines.

Hiking in the jungles in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​I finally fulfilled my long-awaited wish of jogging in the mountains, breathing in the fresh air. During my run, I had the opportunity to meet many locals living in Bir. They were curious about my origins, my purpose in Bir, and the reason behind my jogging. Eventually, the ladies in Bir began sending their daughters with me to join me on my mountain runs.

Road to my home in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Flora in Bir

I relocated to Bir on March 27, 2016. Spring was the best thing that happened to me in Bir. The snow from the mountains had melted, and the land looked vibrant in lush green. During my three months of stay in Bir, I was able to see different colors on the trees and plants. Nature brings a lot of joy to my life.

Red bloom trees in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Purple jacaranda bloom trees in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Yellow jacaranda bloom trees in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Pink bloom in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Pink bloom on trees in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Fauna in Bir

I used to think bird-watching was boring, but then I met Bir! I couldn’t look away from the beautiful birds that visited my neighborhood regularly. Now, I’m on a mission to chase colorful birds all over the mountains!

Red billed blue magpie in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​I had never seen geese guarding a house before. As I approached a house next to the monastery, the geese began screeching.

Pet geese in a monastery in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​Traffic jams in Bir

I was overjoyed to finally be free from the constant struggle of wasting my precious time in the congested and polluted cities. The only traffic jams I encountered were caused by adorable goats, and I can’t imagine anyone complaining about such charming jams. It was an exhilarating sight indeed!

The goats causing traffic jam in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​It was a delightful sight to witness the goats strategically positioning themselves in unexpected locations.

The goats in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

The goats in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Local people in Bir

Bir is a melting pot of cultures, with people from all over the world making it their home. You’ll find a lot of Punjabis and Tibetans here, as well as some paragliders who’ve come from all over the country. And like me, there are also people who’ve left the hustle and bustle of the city for a quieter life in the mountains.
The official language of Bir is Kangri, which is a dialect of Himachali. But the locals usually speak a mix of Kangri and Punjabi, which they call Pahadi.
When it comes to dress, the traditional attire for women in Himachal is called a Pattu. They wear it during special occasions, but even though most women wear salwar kameez, the older ladies still stick to the traditional dress.

Pattu - traditional dress for women in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​In winters, Himachali men typically wear casual sherwanis with waistcoats. A must-have accessory for Himachali men is the vibrant Himachali cap.

Sherwani - traditional dress for men in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​There’s a separate settlement for Tibetan refugees called Tibetan colony. Bir is home to many monasteries, and local Tibetans visit them during prayer times. ​

Tibetan refugees in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​The kid walks through the fields to attend her school in the village.

The kid walks through the fields to go to her school in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​The girls here were so friendly, they greeted me with “Good evening” or “Hello” every time we met!

Young girls in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​The women are quite accustomed to carrying their children on their backs while going to work. The woman in the picture below was my domestic helper in Bir.

My cook and domestic help in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​There are gypsies or nomadic tribes that reside in the jungles and higher mountains. One day, a lady visited my doorstep to sell Jungli Lingdi (Fiddleheads), a type of organically grown vegetable that she collected from the mountain tops. She insisted that I buy it because it was delicious. My cook cooked it, and it was not only tasty but also healthy.

Lingdi (Fiddleheads) organic vegetable in higher Himalayas. Gypsies in the Himalayas

​Many monks reside in Bir. There are institutes in Bir where children are trained in Buddhist Monasticism.

The kid monks in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

Occupation of people living in Bir

In Bir, agriculture and farming are the backbone of the community. The locals are self-sufficient, growing their own food, raising cattle for milk and meat, and taking care of all their domestic needs.

Women working in fields in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​Pesticides are commonly used in agriculture, but there are also organic farmers who grow their vegetables without using harmful chemicals. My neighbors were so kind to share their farm-fresh organic veggies with me when I was in need. It was the peak season for green peas, and I absolutely adore them! I couldn’t get enough of them in the entire three months. They were so sweet and flavorful, especially in the mountains where I grew up. I’d often pluck them straight from the farm and enjoy them as a snack.

Women plucking green peas from the fields in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​The main crops grown here are wheat, rice, barley, and lentils. During my stay in Bir, I noticed how the wheat fields would turn green to barren after the harvest.

Wheat harvest season in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​Threshing machines come to the fields during the harvest season, ready to make hay!

Threshing machine in fields for Wheat harvest season in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​When I arrived in Bir, I was greeted by tea gardens on both sides of the road. There’s even a tea factory there! You’ll often see women in Bir plucking green tea leaves to make a living.

Women working in tea gardens in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​Bir is a completely non-commercialized village with only small shops that provided basic necessities. This place taught me how to live without the brands I was accustomed to. Sometimes, I had to drive 15 kilometers to Jogindernagar to satisfy my craving for Pani-Puri (Golgappe).

Small shops for basics in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​The Tibetan colony had limited shops selling clothes and other basic necessities. Most Tibetans were engrossed in their devotion to Buddhism.

Shops in tibetan colony in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​Women ran small stalls selling Tibetan food. Some of them even sold momos on the side of the road!

Tea and momo stalls in tibetan colony in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​Bir is a popular tourist destination known for its adventure activities. There are numerous shops selling paragliding, trekking, camping, and cycling packages. Visitors often come for a day trip from Mcleodganj to experience the thrill of paragliding. In the mornings, you’ll see cars loaded with gliders on the roof, making their way up the 16-kilometer road to Billing, the take-off site.

Paragliders in Bir, Himachal Pradesh

​I had numerous knowledge exchange sessions with the local people of Bir, and I learned a lot from them. By the end of three months, I had embraced and integrated into Himachali culture. On my last day, the lady who had provided me with domestic help at my home invited me for lunch at her place. She surprised me by wrapping a ‘Pattu’ around me before serving me the lunch.