Kashmir Great Lakes Trek - exploring the jewelled lakes

Kashmir Great Lakes trek is one of the most beautiful treks of India. If there’s a paradise on earth, it is definitely Kashmir. I had an intense urge to experience the beauty of this state since childhood. Against a lot of opposition from my close friends and family, I left for Kashmir alone and joined a group of trekkers in Sonmarg. I was ready to put in all the efforts it takes to capture the purest parts of Kashmir in my eyes. I chose to join a group for a trek to the Great Lakes of Kashmir. These jewelled lakes are hidden from the crowd, between the mountains.

Height: 14000 ft
Route: Sonmarg to Narnag
Distance covered: 63 kms
Difficulty Level: Moderate with several steep ascends and descends.
The Trail: runs through meadows, boulders, rivers, passes, forests with huge pine and maple trees, army campsites. The gradient and the landscape changes at every kilometer.
No. of trekking days: 7 days (includes one leisure exploration day at the twin lakes)
Dates I trekked on: 10th Aug 2013 - 17th Aug 2013 (Failed attempt)
                                  13th Jul 2014 - 20th Jul 2014 (Successful Attempt)
Best time for Kashmir Great Lakes Trek: Mid July to 1st week of August

I reached my base camp site and was completely mesmerized by the bird's eye view of Sonmarg town.

Bird's eye view of Sonmarg

A DELIGHTFUL START!!!
The first day of the trek was a difficult climb, but the sight of the alluring panoramas would not dampen anyone's spirit. They make you greedy for more.

On way to Nichnai Pass

Have I seen this anywhere before? Yes, I have seen a similar site in the movie "Highway", or may be it was the same site? A dream house on the table land.

On way to Nichnai Pass

Even the rocks are colorful in Kashmir!

After two days of strenuous climb, we got the first glimpse of the first lake - Vishnusar.

Vishnusar lake

The emerald water of this untouched, unadulterated lake, made the trek feel like an accomplishment in itself.

Vishnusar Lake

Vishnusar Lake

Vishnusar lake has a twin lake called Kishansar lake just behind the ridge. Both these lakes are home to fresh trouts. Few locals come here for fishing and feasting on them. Fishing needs lot of patience and skills and it's way more difficult than it sounds, here's a fishing guide for reference. 

Kishansar Lake

THE BLOW THAT SWEPT THE DREAMS!!!
We camped just near the lake and once the sun started setting down, the clouds started roaring and bursting. It rained incessantly for 3 days. The rains were so wild that it became difficult for us to even go to the kitchen tent. There was no chance for us to move in any of the directions. We were stuck in our tents for more than 72 hours. While this was a depressing time for most of the members in the group, some of us ended up making life-long friends with eachother. After 3 days, the rain slowed a bit, but the clouds still dominated the skies. The next climb to Gadsar Pass was very steep and through narrow trail. It was a heart-breaking and wise decision to discontinue the trail and head back to Sonamarg.

AND THE MOUNTAINS BECKON ME AGAIN!!
I came back home with a much stronger urge to see more on this trail. I hate to leave any story incomplete.
Come next year, I was back in Kashmir with hopes of successfully completing the trek. I started from Sonmarg base camp again. The day was clear when we started for Gadsar Pass this time. Just after an hour's climb, the rain god bestowed upon us. Fighting against a lot of difficulties (I would write a separate post on this), we managed to cross the pass in heavy rain and I got to see the sapphire Gadsar lake. It looked magnificent with the floating ice sheets on it.

Gadsar Lake

We camped near the Satsar lake, and had maggi with a miliion-dollar-worth view!

The next was a tough day, making our way through boulders and heavily-flowing streams. The final leg of the climb was to cross the steep Zach Pass. The snow covered pass added on to the difficulty of this climb.

On way to Zach Pass

After I reached the top of this pass, just when I was catching my breath and celebrating the achievement with myself, a co-trekker asked me to turn around. My heart skipped a beat when I saw this view. This was one of the most glamorous views captured by my eyes and felt by my heart - the twin lakes of Nundkol and Gangbal.

Twin lakes of Nundkol and Gangbal

We descended to camp near these lakes. The closer I got to these lakes, the fonder I got for them. We spend one entire day to explore the lakes.These lakes too are home to fresh trouts.

Nundkol lake with Harmukh peak

Gangbal Lake

The locals dressed in their Kashmiri dress called 'Pheren', and their hookah.

Meet my co-trekkers in the fantasy land :)

The feeling of contentment after the successful second attempt made it all worth!
I repeat, no words, pictures or emotions can do any justice to the beauty of Kashmir.

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