The Life of Kashmiris on Dal Lake, India – Harmony in a Living Ecosystem

Life on Dal Lake in Kashmir

The Original travelogue of Paradise on Earth by Medhavi Davda in NCERT language coursebook by Class7.
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After my incredible trek to the Kashmir Great Lakes - one of the most breathtaking treks in India, I found myself in Srinagar for a whirlwind of less than 24 hours. The floating market on Dal Lake was the highlight of my trip. I yearned to experience living in a houseboat and witnessing this unique Indian phenomenon.

I met a Shikhara owner who advised me to be ready at 4:00 am for our ride to the floating market. It was my first night in a houseboat after sleeping in tents for eight consecutive nights. The excitement was overwhelming, and I was already there at 4:00 am, waiting for the Shikhara owner.

As we set off into the darkness, traveling solo in Kashmir was an exhilarating adventure. I kept myself occupied with conversations about the floating market to ease my nerves.

The darkness gradually faded, revealing a breathtaking view of the lake. This was a side of the lake I had never seen in pictures. We navigated through narrow lanes, under wooden bridges, and past houses with their mirrored reflections. More Shikharas joined us, heading towards the floating market.

Early morning Shikhara ride on Dal Lake, Kashmir

Floating vegetable market on Dal Lake in Kashmir

After a 45-minute ride, we arrived at the floating market. The vendors had already set up their stalls in the center. The shikharas, loaded with fresh vegetables, made the lake look vibrant in the early morning hours.

Floating vegetable market on Dal Lake, Kashmir

Barter system on Dal Lake in Kashmir

Did you know that the barter system still thrives in India? I was deeply moved by this aspect of human nature that persists in our country. The locals here cultivate vegetables in small plots near their homes. Every morning, they gather their homegrown produce and exchange it at this designated spot. Within an hour, they all return home with a diverse assortment of vegetables, before the sun is out. Money is not involved; it’s simply a vegetable exchange.

Barter of vegetables at floating market on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​The humanity in my eyes was amplified when I witnessed these individuals meticulously assisting one another in transferring vegetables from their shikharas.

Barter of vegetables at floating market on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​Sometimes, even the “3rd person” helps in exchanging vegetables by holding the shikhara while the other two engage in their barter.

Barter of vegetables at floating market on Dal Lake, Kashmir

Traditional Kashmiri houses on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​The floating market on Dal Lake was the most "No-nonsense" market I’ve ever encountered. Everyone’s eyes were fixed on each other’s vegetables. A mere glance was sufficient for them to reach an agreement on the exchange. As the dawn broke, I gazed upon the houses behind the shikharas, where these locals reside. 

There was also a "Mr. Wonderful Flower Man"

Shikhara with flowers on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​The Mr. Wonderful Flower Man was so kind to come over and give me a flower from his bunch. I was the only one who wasn’t participating in the barter, and he probably didn’t want me to feel left out.

Floating lotus gardens on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​The floating market wound up before sunrise, and I requested my Shikara rider to take me on a tour of the Nishat garden on his shikhara. While it was significantly more expensive and time-consuming compared to visiting the gardens via auto rickshaw, it undoubtedly turned out to be one of the best decisions I had made, second only to my visit to the floating market.

As we embarked on our journey, I was captivated by the breathtaking actions unfolding on the lake. The shikhara rider, with his wealth of knowledge about the lives of people in Kashmir, shared fascinating insights and stories during our ride.

Cranes on Dal Lake, Kashmir

People at work on Dal Lake

Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir, is actually divided into two distinct parts: those who reside on the Dal Lake and those who live on land or along the roads. This division has resulted in the existence of two extreme lifestyles within the city.

Children residing on the Dal Lake commute to school by riding their own Shikhara, a traditional Kashmirian boat. Fishing plays a significant role in the livelihoods of those who live on the lake.

Fishing in Dal Lake, Kashmir

​The women here are seen extracting weeds from the lake, which they use to make compost for their home gardens.

Weed compost at Dal Lake, Kashmir

​I witnessed women carrying the weed extracts in their Shikharas on the Dal lake.

Woman carrying weed on her shikhara at Dal Lake, Kashmir

Wedding houseboat on Dal Lake

There’s a marriage hall nestled in the middle of the Dal Lake, with the majestic mountains standing tall in the backdrop. I believe that all the Kashmiris residing on the Dal Lake make destination weddings a default choice.

wedding houseboat at Dal Lake, Kashmir

Char Chinar Island on Dal Lake

There’s a small island on the lake called Char Chinar, home to four majestic Chinar trees. We parked our shikhara on the side and hopped on to this tranquil island, eager to enjoy the tranquility of the lake.

Char Chinar at Dal Lake, Kashmir

First rays of sun on Dal Lake

Dal Lake glitters when the sun rises from the mountains, casting its rays across the lake.

First rays of sun on Dal Lake, Kashmir

Chori ki Kheti on Dal Lake in Kashmir

Have you heard about the floating land on Dal Lake? It’s called “Chori ki kheti,” which means “stolen farmland” in local language. People here claim ownership of any piece of land they find floating on the lake.
The shikhara rider asked me to step on a small piece of land that was just 5-6 square feet. He promised me it wouldn’t sink. I was a bit skeptical, but I decided to give it a try. 

Floating islands, chori ki kheti, on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​Nishat Bagh accessible through Dal Lake

Nishat Bagh, a renowned Mughal garden, welcomes visitors from 08:00 am onwards. I arrived early, parking our shikhara on one of the sides near the lake’s bank. We crossed the road and entered the garden. I had an omelette from a roadside stall and waited patiently for the gates to open. While the blossoms weren’t in full bloom yet, I had a blast posing like old actresses for pictures, following the instructions from my guide, the Shikhara rider. Sometimes, I step out of my comfort zone to engage with locals and build connections.

Nishat Garden/Bagh by shikhara

​Visit to a house on Dal Lake

We embarked on our ride back after our visit to the Mughal Garden. By then, the Shikhara rider had become a familiar friend to me. Through him, I gained a wealth of knowledge about Kashmir and the Dal Lake. He regaled me with a captivating yet disheartening collection of stories about the disputed land. He had earned the affectionate moniker “Aashiq Bhaiya” from me. Eager to try the renowned local salty tea, “Nunchai,” I expressed my desire to him.
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He graciously guided me to the residence of one of his friends, situated on the picturesque Dal Lake. As captured in the accompanying photograph, the house appeared to have emerged from a fairy tale.

The people residing in this region are known for their reserved nature. The hospitality I received was exceptional, as I savored the delectable Nunchai accompanied by some local bread.

Visiting traditional Kashmiri house on Dal Lake

Kashmiri Hookah

Kashmiris are fond of smoking hookahs, and most of them own one in their homes. I wish I could bring this exquisite piece of art back home!

Kashmiri hookah

Vegetable gardens on Dal Lake

I also strolled through the vegetable garden that encircles the house. The vegetables tasted incredibly fresh and sweet due to the nearby freshwater lake.

vegetable gardens on Dal Lake, Kashmir

Doorstep floating stores on Dal Lake

There are doorstep services provided by shikharas for the residents of the Dal Lake. This man had come to deliver some vegetables to the house I visited.

Floating vegetable stores on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​I was quite fascinated with this floating plasticware store on Dal Lake.

Floating plasticware store on Dal Lake, Kashmir

And this floating candy store on Dal Lake was cool too!

Floating confectionary store on Dal Lake, Kashmir

Water lilies on the floating gardens on Dal Lake

As the sunlight intensified, the water lilies on Dal Lake burst into full bloom, transforming the lake into a breathtaking spectacle of floating gardens.

Water lilies in full bloom on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​This picture captures a beautiful moment of the locals enjoying a ride on a Shikhara on Dal Lake, surrounded by the vibrant beauty of water lilies in full bloom.

Water lilies in full bloom on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​Aashiq Bhaiya plucked a water lily and crafted a necklace for me. This gesture of his radiated a glow on my face, even visible through the half-burnt skin (resulting from the trek).

Water lilies in full bloom on Dal Lake, Kashmir

​Aashiq Bhaiya, with his impeccable timing, safely dropped me back at my houseboat, ensuring I wouldn’t miss my flight. Our connection didn’t end there. The next day, he reached out to check if I had arrived home safely. To show his care, he even couriered a pair of Kashmiri dangling earrings (known as Athoor in the local language) to me.

Aashiq had mentioned that his younger brother owned a shop in Varkala and resided there. A year later, when I embarked on a backpacking trip to Varkala, I called Aashiq Bhaiya. He promptly made all the necessary arrangements through his brother for a comfortable stay in Varkala. While I didn’t truly require any assistance for the trip, it was simply a way to strengthen our bond.
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​This travelogue is published as a chapter for class7 in NCERT syllabus. For details click here.