Kaaphal Hill - a self-sustained farmstay in Chaukori, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

Kaaphal Hill: sustainable farmstay in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

Tucked away in the quiet village of Chaukori in Uttarakhand’s Kumaon region, Kaaphal Hill is a self-sustaining farmstay that offers an authentic glimpse into Himalayan living in India. Perched on a remote mountain and surrounded by fruit orchards, organic farms, and pine forests, it stands as the only homestay on the hill - making it a true escape into nature. Kaaphal Hill is one of the best-kept secrets of the Indian Himalayas as it embodies traditional, sustainable living and is a serene haven for eco-conscious travelers, slow tourists, and nature lovers alike. 

​The resident family, comprising an elderly couple and their son, has cultivated their own food, raised cattle for milk, kept bees, processed their grains, and even fed over 30 varieties of birds that visit their surroundings daily. This family has graciously opened the doors of their homestay to travelers seeking to experience the authentic village life of Kumaon.

​On my week-long roadtrip trip to Kumaon in Uttarakhand, India, I opted for the farmstay experience at Kaaphal Hill. Village tourism in the Himalayas has captivated me since  I got addicted to the Himalayas. After quitting my job and city life, I lived in different parts of Himachal Pradesh, seeking immersive travel experiences. This unique approach allowed me to learn and appreciate the culture and rustic way of life of the mountain dwellers.

Kaaphal Hill - a self-sustained farmstay, Village Tourism in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Kaaphal Hills offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the Himalayan Range, stretching from Garhwal to Nepal. Prominent peaks like Nandadevi, Nandakot, and Panchachuli stand tall in this majestic range.
Watching the sunrises and sunsets over the mountains from Kaaphal Hill is a truly spectacular sight.
My day begins with the chirping of birds during sunrise, followed by prayers offered by my aunt.

Sunrise at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The elderly woman in the family welcomes you to her village land through her favorite window in the kitchen.

Local family at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The kitchen, entirely constructed from bamboo and wood, was equipped with only basic cooking utensils, leaving ample space for families to gather and strengthen their bonds.

Traditional kitchen at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​I was delighted to witness them utilizing the traditional brassware and fireplace (chulha) for cooking. Aunty even offered me some traditional brassware to brew my herbal tea.

Traditional kitchen at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The rooms at Kaaphal Hill are basic yet very comfortable, featuring large glass windows that provide unobstructed views of the farm and the majestic mountain peaks.

Bedroom at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Aunty fed me with fresh, organic food every day. She cooked various homegrown dishes, including lentils, brown rice, multi-grain roties (Indian flatbread), and leafy vegetables. The multi-grain roties were especially delicious when paired with homemade ghee and jaggery. One of the interesting breakfasts she made was “Kumaoni Maggi,” which were homemade noodles fried and spiced with homemade herbal dips.

Kumaoni noodles at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​I visited Kumaon in March 2017 when the sky was a clear blue, the fields were lush green, and the fruit orchards were in full bloom. The mustard fields near my house were adorned with vibrant yellow flowers that shone brightly.

Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The blushing red rhododendrons were in full bloom. I had tasted rhododendron juice several times before, but my aunt surprised me by making a salad out of the petals of rhododendron flowers.

Rhododendrons at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The Aadu (Peach) fruit trees were adorned with beautiful pink flowers.

Peach blossoms at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Aunty made spicy lemons as an afternoon snack using the huge lemons she had plucked fresh from the trees.

Lemon Tree at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The oranges were one week away from being ripe and ready for plucking.

Orange Tree at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The fig fruits had begun to grow on the branches.

Fig Tree at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The beautiful birds made regular visits to the farms and fruit orchards of Kaaphal Hill.

Rufous-bellied Niltava at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

Turtle Dove (Ghughuti) at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​I was amazed to learn from the son that Auntie had managed to tame Kaleej Peasants, one of the most sought-after birds in the Himalayas. Sighting Kaleej Pheasants is considered a lucky occurrence, and clicking a picture of them is even more fortunate. I felt incredibly fortunate when I had a pair of Kaleej Pheasants (the male is blue, and the female is brown) around me for 20 minutes. They diligently fed on the grains that Auntie had left for them, while I diligently clicked pictures of them. Initially, they shied away from me for a minute, but gradually, they became comfortable with my presence and even posed for me, no longer afraid of the camera. The owner of the farmstay exclaimed that I had been the sole visitor until that point who had managed to spot the pheasants up close and personal. He explained that the birds are highly sensitive and would have sensed my love for nature and felt safe in my presence.

Kaleej Pheasants at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The family had tamed and raised six cows for their own source of pure cow milk. Although I don’t particularly enjoy drinking milk tea, my uncle would lovingly make it with cloves and cinnamon for me in the mornings. I must admit, I found the taste quite delightful. I had been drinking milk every day until I discovered the chemicals added as preservatives in packaged milk!

Cow shed at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Uncle, who is very fond of fresh organic honey, passionately engaged in beekeeping. He would climb up the trees to catch the bees.

Beekeeping at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Honey bees are raised in a box made of mud and wood. Once, my aunt gave me a small bowl of freshly cultivated honey. Uncle commented that I wouldn’t like this honey because I’d be used to market brands. I then told them about my life in the Himalayas. They were delighted to hear that I was already a “pahadi.”

Honey farming at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Aunty would grind homegrown wheat into flour and process brown rice using this manual wooden equipment. Every food item I had at Kaaphal Hill was bursting with freshness and a natural taste. Everything they consumed was made from natural and homegrown ingredients. I admire people who still cherish the concept of self-sustainability. 

Manual grain grinding at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​A 2 km trail leads you up the mountain to a point that offers an intimate view of the snow-capped mountains. 

Himalayan Ranges at Bageshwar - Pitthoragarh, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

​Aunty took me to the Bageshwar-Pitthoragarh border on the mountain. For the first time in my life, I felt like taking a picture of someone else more than myself! At the age of 60, Aunty was so energetic that she became the showstopper.

Himalayan Ranges at Bageshwar - Pitthoragarh, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

​On our return, aunty began gathering firewood for cooking dinner on the chulha.

Natural living at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

​Natural living is the lifestyle I truly admire. I left my job and city life behind to embrace a natural lifestyle. I yearn to consume fresh, wholesome food, drink clean, pure water, and breathe in the fresh air for the rest of my days.

I was hosted by Kaaphal Hill during my stay there. 
Contact Tarun Mahara +91-9410591535 for reservations.
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​Here’s a video recounting my experience living at Kaaphal Hill Farmstay in Chaukori village.