Kaaphal Hill - a self-sustained farmstay, Village Tourism in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

On my last trip to Kumaon in Uttarakhand, I chose a farmstay in a village to understand life of people in Kumaon. Village Tourism in the Himalayas is enticing me a lot since I got addicted to the Himalayas. I started living in different parts of Himachal Pradesh to get immersive travel experiences after I quit my job and city life. It is a fantastic way to learn and explore the culture and rustic way of life of the people in the mountains. 
Kaaphal Hill is a self-sustained farmstay, perched on a mountain in a village called Chaukori. It is the only house standing on that mountain, surrounded with vast farms, fruit orchards and pine forests. The resident family here grows own food, raises cattle for milk, keeps the bees, processes own grains and feeds more than 30 varieties of birds that come to their surrounding everyday. This family of an old couple and their son, have opened their doors to travellers who want to experience village life in Kumaon.

Kaaphal Hill - a self-sustained farmstay, Village Tourism in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Kaaphal Hills offers a vast panoramic view of the Himalayan Range starting from Garhwal to Nepal. Nandadevi , Nandakot and Panchachuli are the prominent peaks that stand tall in this Himalayan Range.
Sunrises and sunsets over the mountains is quite a spectacular sight as seen fom Kaapahal Hill.
My day here starts with chirping of the birds during sunrise followed by aunty's prayers.

Sunrise at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The old lady in the family welcomes you to her village land through her favourite window in the kitchen.

Local family at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The kitchen is completely made of bamboos and wood. The kitchen was occupied with only basic cooking equipment, that left a huge space for families to gather and bond.

Traditional kitchen at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​I was very happy to see them using the traditional brassware and fireplace (chulha) for cooking. Aunty offered me traditional brassware to make my herbal tea.

Traditional kitchen at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The rooms at Kaaphal Hill are basic, yet very comfortable, and have huge glass windows that offer clear views to the farm and the mountain peaks.

Bedroom at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Aunty fed me with farm fresh organic food everyday. She cooked various homegrown daals (lentils), brown rice, multi grain roties (Indian flat bread) and leafy vegetables during my stay there. The multi grain roties tasted awesome with homemade ghee and jaggery. One of the interesting breakfasts she made was "Kumaoni Maggi" (homemade noodles, fried and spiced with homemade herbal dips ).

Kumaoni noodles at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​I had visited Kumaon in March 2017, when the sky was clear blue, the fields were green and fruit orchards were blooming. The mustard fields were shining with yellow flowers near the house.

Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The blushing red rhododendrons were in full bloom. I had tasted rhododendron juice several times before, but aunty surprised me by making a salad out of the the petals of rhododendron flowers.

Rhododendrons at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Pretty pink flowers blossomed on the Aadu (Peach) fruit trees.

Peach blossoms at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Aunty made spicy lemons as afternoon snack from the huge lemons she plucked fresh from the trees.

Lemon Tree at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The oranges were 1 week from being ready to be plucked.

Orange Tree at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The fig fruits had started growing on the branches.

Fig Tree at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The beautiful birds payed regular visits to the farms and fruit orchards of Kaaphal Hill.

Rufous-bellied Niltava at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

Turtle Dove at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​I was amazed to hear from the son that aunty had tamed Kaleej Peasants, one of the most sought after birds in the Himalayas. Sighting Kaleej Pheasants is regarded as lucky and cliking a picture of them is evem more lucky. I felt the luckiest when I had a pair of Kaleej Pheasants (blue is the male, brown is the female) around me for 20 minutes. They kept feeding on grains that aunty had left for them, while I kept clicking them. They shied away from me for a minute, but then they got comfortable with me and even posed for me (they didn't shy from the camera anymore). The owner of the farmstay exclaimed that I have been the only visitor till date who could spot the pheasants up, close and personal. He said that the birds are very sensitive and they would have sensed me as a nature lover and felt safe around me.

Kaleej Pheasants at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The family had tamed and raised 6 cows for their own source of pure cow milk. I don't like drinking milk tea, but uncle had lovingly made cow milk tea with cloves and cinnamon for me in the morning. I would confess, I liked the taste of this milk tea. I was used to drinking milk everyday, until I realised what chemicals are added as preservatives in the packaged milk!

Cow shed at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Uncle was passionately engaged in beekeeping as he is very fond of fresh organic honey. He climbs up the trees to catch bees.

Beekeeping at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​The honey bees are raised in a box made of mud and wood. Aunty once gave me a small bowl of freshly cultivated honey. Uncle commented that i won't like this honey as I would be used to the market brands. I then told them my story of living in the Himalayas. They were very happy to hear that I was already a "pahadi".

Honey farming at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​Aunty would grind homegrown wheat to flour and process own brown rice with this manual wooden equipment. Every food item I had at Kaaphal Hill oozed out freshness and natural taste. Everything they consumed was natural and homegrown. I admire people who still love the idea of self-sustainability. 

Manual grain grinding at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, in Chaukori, Uttarakhand

​A 2 km trail up the mountain takes you to a point which gives an intimate view of the snow covered mountains. 

Himalayan Ranges at Bageshwar - Pitthoragarh, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

​Aunty took me up to the point at the Bageshwar - Pitthoragarh border on the mountain. For once in my life, I felt like clicking someone else more than myself! Aunty, at the age of 60, was so energetic that she became the showstopper.

Himalayan Ranges at Bageshwar - Pitthoragarh, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

​On our return, aunty started collecting firewood for cooking dinner on the chulha.

Natural living at Kaaphal Hill farmstay, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

​Natural living is the way of life I really admire. I quit my job and city life for a natural life. I would love to eat fresh food, drink clean water and breathe fresh air for the rest of my life.

P.S. I was hosted by Kaaphal Hill during my stay there. 
Contact Tarun Mahara +91-9410591535 for reservations.

Video on my experience of living at Kaaphal Hill farmstay in Chaukori village

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