Living in a traditional Himachali house in Tirthan Valley
Himachali traditional houses built in the Kathkuni style of architecture, using local timber, stones, mud, and slate roofs, have always captivated me in the Indian Himalayas. From the outside, I would stand and admire the simplicity and beauty of these pahadi houses. During my journeys, I photographed various Himachal houses that caught my eye. I couldn’t help but wonder what it would be like to live in these old traditional houses.
Living in modern towns like Mithapur, Ahmedabad, Pune, and Mumbai, I never had the opportunity to experience traditional house living. In November 2016, I decided to immerse myself in the Himalayan lifestyle by living in a homestay in Tirthan Valley. I was staying with a local family of a young couple and their child. While it was a modernized homestay, they planned to visit their old house on the top, where the their mother lived. They invited me to join them, but they did so with an underconfident tone, fearing that I might not enjoy living in an old house without modern facilities. Despite their doubts, I showed great enthusiasm and expressed my eagerness to experience this unique opportunity. They reassured me that if I didn’t like it, they would come back in a day. With my bags packed, I prepared myself for a three-day stay in this traditional house in Himachal Pradesh. I had to hike for 15-20 minutes to reach their ancestral home, a beautiful wooden house standing alone in the middle of the mountains. The autumn leaves still adorned the trees in the fruit orchards surrounding the house. From there, I had unobstructed views of the snow-capped, cedar-forested, and rocky mountains, as well as a bird’s-eye view of the Tirthan River. Let me confess, I like the river from close up when I can see the crystal-clear water and hear its soothing sound. As soon as I stepped inside, I was immediately captivated by the intricate interiors of the Himachali house. The Himachali houses have a covered passageway that connects different rooms, creating a sense of openness and flow. Each room was independently connected, with wooden frames for the windows lacking panes. Despite the freezing cold of January, with temperatures dropping to a mere 3 degrees during the day and plummeting to -5 degrees at night, I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the beauty of the house and the serene atmosphere that enveloped me. She is a darling! Without her, my life would have been very different in Tirthan Valley as living in the Himalayas is not a cake walk. She makes me feel like home. She cooks for me religiously and takes care of all my needs. She even misses me when I’m away! She took over the kitchen at her mother-in-law’s house and ensured that my food habits were maintained there as well. The traditional kitchen has a mud-made tandoor where food is cooked using firewood, keeping the kitchen warm. There’s also an open chulha where the woman cooks food on firewood. Gas is only used in emergencies. The traditional, colorful mats in the kitchen create a happy atmosphere for cooking, and they also make for a great backdrop for photography! Every morning, I start my day with a glass of ginger-lemon-honey tea, savoring the breathtaking mornings in the mountains. This picture perfectly captures my state of mind in the Himalayas—a sense of calm and peace, enjoying my solitude, and content with my simple life. I could spend hours here, admiring the different view that was presented to me! I acted like a child who gets lost and indulges in a new set of toys. I follow various workout routines when I reside in the Himalayas. My favorite routine is walking and hiking around the small villages nestled on the mountains. Birding is my next favorite pastime. Tirthan Valley is home to a diverse array of bird species. While I may not be able to identify them all, I’m actively trying to improve my identification skills. For now, I’m simply enjoying the process of chasing and capturing these birds in my photographs. Any birder who reads my blog would be greatly appreciated if they could help me identify these birds. (Thanks to Ankit Sood for providing the names of some of the birds.) The winters in the Himalayas are harsh, but it was a vacation time for the kids. They were thrilled playing with their friends in the fields and orchards, grazing goats on mountain tops with their grandmother, jumping on trees, and breathing in the fresh air. His mom complained that he would always remain a jungle villager with these interests. I was happier to see him enjoying his simple life. I gave her an example of my life and partly convinced her to let him pursue his passions, calming her down. It pains my heart when kids in the Himalayas talk about migrating to cities, leaving behind their healthy and peaceful lifestyle. I understand their desire to study, earn, and prove themselves like others, but I secretly wish they would value their lifestyle and continue living a healthy life. It’s a silent wish right now, but I hope someday I can make a real difference! Even the lady, who I had only seen working in the kitchen and doing domestic chores, showed me a different side of herself by working in the fields. I was truly liking what I was witnessing. Every morning, the Grandmother takes the goats and sheep for grazing. Her neighbor joins her for conversations while they keep an eye on the goats. The little one also enjoys playing with the goats. Each member of the family had their own tasks to complete. The woman worked in the fields and prepared lunch, while the child played with his friends and the goats. The grandmother took the cattle for grazing, and the man had left home early to attend to his construction work. I was diligently capturing every moment for this story! After completing their morning routines, it was time for bathing. The toilet and bath were located just outside the house. I was astounded to discover that the elderly woman had constructed a water heater using some coils and leftover electrical components. The locals in the Himalayas never fail to amaze and humble me. In the evening, the ladies gather in the kitchen to cook dinner while engaging in delightful conversations. The lady, aware of my fondness for green peas, has prepared a special dinner just for me. The conversations continued after dinner near the ‘Tandoor’, even as the temperature dipped to subzero degrees. This was my cozy and comfortable wooden room in the house. I ended up staying here for three days, but I would have stayed longer if there was internet access. I’ve already booked this room again in the spring, when the orchards will be blooming with beautiful flowers and fruits. This place has become my second home in the Himalayas. Drop by Bisht Niwas Homestay in Tirthan Valley and give my regards to Kavita & Mahendra. Contact no: +91-9418093158. |
AUTHORNamaste! I'm Medhavi Davda.
I travel to Evolve.. In Nature, I confide.. I find my calling in the Himalayas.. In the Oceans, I meditate.. A High-Altitude Trekker & PADI certified SCUBA Diver, I love exploring the heights and depths of the planet with my regular doses of mountains and oceans. Discovering myself & life through nature, adventures, travels, sports and dance has been an addiction since my existence! Recent PostsRavenousLegs on InstagramRavenousLegs on FaceBookRavenousLegs on X |