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Thailand has been a choice for short rejuvenation trips for Asians and long vacation stays for many others due to its warm tropical climate and the energetic vibe of the country. I'm back to corporate-life, this time, working for my passion in adventure travel. I clearly miss those days when I was slow traveling in Himachal Pradesh after quitting my job, but I certainly don't miss out on any opportunity to travel. Travel brings an everlasting smile on my face and keeps me forever young. A quick rejuvenating getaway to Thailand from Mumbai was most welcome to take a break from my work. Thailand welcomed me with enough warmth for that smile! ?
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To have an idea on what it takes to be able to fly, check out my video here: |
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How to reach Kamshet
Nirvana Adventures and Native Place are nestled between the Sahyadri Mountains, 30 kms from Lonavla, off the Mumbai-Pune express highway.
You can take any bus to Lonavla either from Mumbai or Pune. From Lonavla you need to hire a taxi to reach Native Place / Nirvana Adventures. I had driven down 125 kms from Mumbai to Kamshet.
You can take any bus to Lonavla either from Mumbai or Pune. From Lonavla you need to hire a taxi to reach Native Place / Nirvana Adventures. I had driven down 125 kms from Mumbai to Kamshet.
Native place overlooking Vadivali lake, Kamshet
P.S. I was invited by Nirvana Adventures to do the Elementary Pilot course with them and was hosted at Native Place.
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I gifted myself a backing trip to South East Asia (Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia) after taking the bold step of quitting my job as a software engineer. I chose budget destinations for my backpacking trip as I wanted to travel for 5 long weeks, without having any income in my account for almost a year since then. I was very excited about spending maximum time in Vietnam as I could relate the diversity of this country to India. From north to south, Vietnam has diverse landscapes ranging from mountains, deserts, heritage sites, dense forests, river delta, coastal stretches, islands and tropical lowlands. While exploring the rich diversity and culture, adventure was also on my top list. I flew to Ho Chi Minh City and traversed from south to north covering the following destinations:
1. Vinh Long - River Island in Mekong Delta
Mekong River Delta in the south was my first pick in Vietnam after I landed at Ho Chi Minh City. There are 3 provinces frequented by tourists on the Mekong Delta - Bến Tre, Vĩnh Long and Cần Thơ. I chose to explore Vinh Long, approachable by bus from Ho Chi Minh City. A short ferry ride took me to a river island named An Binh on Tien river, in Vinh Long province. An Binh is a beautiful green island, inhabited by the ethic Viet. I stayed with the locals in a homestay, walked around the island to observe the simple lifestyle of locals there and took a boat ride to floating market of Cai Be.
2. Scuba Diving in Nha Trang
The seaside town of Nha Trang was a must-visit for me as it is the Scuba Diving centre of Vietnam. Nha Trang is one of the cheapest destinations for Scuba Diving certification. Being of the prime fishing location, this part of the country is heavily fished, and doesn’t offer great marine life sightings while scuba diving. But since I am already an advanced open water diver, I would love to take a dive in different parts of the world to upgrade my diving skills and experience. I was already spoilt by diving in the islands of Indonesia, Andaman and Lakshadweep. I was very happy to explore the dive sites of Vietnam that enhanced my experience of diving in strong currents. Nha Trang town has a laid back vibe with a beautiful bay, white sand beaches, bars and boutiques.
3. Hoi An - UNESCO World Heritage Site
To explore some heritage side of Vietnam, I headed to Hoi An - a UNESCO World Heritage Site influenced by Chinese, Japanese and Dutch architecture. I had a “love at first sight” affair with this chic town decorated with creative Vietnamese lanterns. It had chic garden cafes serving the Vietnamese coffee, which I rate the best I’ve ever had. I stayed in a homestay on the banks of a beautiful river that runs through the town. A short walk from my homestay through the fields took me to scenic beach with pretty mountains in the backdrop. The boutiques in the central town sold tailor-made first copies of all high-end brands, I was spoilt for choice! The central part of the town has charming cafes overlooking the river where artists play live music under the lantern-lit streets. I someday wish to go back to this town to live there for a few months admiring the beauty!
4. Trekking through rice terraces in Sapa
Sapa highlands in the north was another adventure destination for me in Vietnam. Located in the mountain range close to the Chinese border, Sapa is a picturesque town inhabited by Hmong - the ethnic Vietnamese tribe. I trekked upto Taphin village in the mountains and stayed overnight at a homestay with the ethnic Vietnamese locals, who looked like Chinese as it is very close to Chinese border. The family cooked delicious local food. This is where I learnt using chopsticks as it was the only available option! I had been escaping using chopsticks on all my trips to South East Asia all this while! The family walked me around the village showing me cherry blossoms and beautiful view points in the mountain range. The lady walked me to the main trail from where I hiked down to the town of Lao Can to take my bus to Laos.
Backpacking in Vietnam gave me varied experiences of trekking, scuba diving, heritage, culture, food, homestays and picturesque locations. I haven’t done justice to the country as the country has a lot more to offer than the destinations I visited.
How to Travel to Vietnam:
I had taken the low-cost Air Asia flight from Mumbai to Ho Chi Minh City with a layover in Malaysia. I would also recommend to explore Kota Kinabalu if you wish to spend some time in Malaysia before heading to Vietnam. Budget Hotel in Kota Kinabalu can be booked through reliable hotel booking platform.
Visa requirements for Vietnam for Indians:
Vietnam has Visa on Arrival for Indian passport holders, with a visa approval letter which can be obtained through online application with any of the online agent platforms. Once you have the approval letter, the visa will be stamped on arrival. The agents have fixed application fee, however they can charge a surcharge if you need the approval letter during any of their holiday season (mainly during the Chinese year holiday season).
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Breaking myths has been my favourite pastime since ever and driving has fascinated me since I was a kid. The first thing I ever wanted to possess after I start earning was a car. As a kid I used to fantasise about owning 7 cars, 1 for each day.
I come from a typical Indian family where my parents wanted me to buy a car only after I get married. They feared me being rejected by guys for marriage if I break my bones or suffer from physical dysfunction on banging up my car.
I come from a typical Indian family where my parents wanted me to buy a car only after I get married. They feared me being rejected by guys for marriage if I break my bones or suffer from physical dysfunction on banging up my car.
Celebrating my freedom with my car
After I started earning, I had many heated up arguments with my family about my desire to buy a car. But that didn’t stop me. Some day, I gathered enough money and courage to buy a small hatchback car, just enough for me. I celebrated my freedom by driving it for a week to various destinations before I “informed” my parents about my new possession.
They were of course not happy, but they had no option except warning me to use the car only in the city and not take it on the highways. Little did they know that the car was on highway everyday for the entire week.
I was a social butterfly when I lived in Pune. I had started enjoying my freedom as I could be out for parties till late, without the worries of availability of public transport, I could explore beautiful destinations around Pune on the weekends.
They were of course not happy, but they had no option except warning me to use the car only in the city and not take it on the highways. Little did they know that the car was on highway everyday for the entire week.
I was a social butterfly when I lived in Pune. I had started enjoying my freedom as I could be out for parties till late, without the worries of availability of public transport, I could explore beautiful destinations around Pune on the weekends.
Driving my new i10 to Shrivardhan beach
Breaking egos
I started going out on long road trips with friends. I had to constantly fight the egos of my male friends who always wanted to show that they are better drivers than me, but still, didn’t have the guts or permission to take their dad’s car on road trips. I even learnt to be patient on the roads.
Driving my new i10 on Worli sea link
Taking safety measures on road for woman solo driving
Gradually I got so immersed in solo traveling that I wanted to enjoy my long drives solo. I started taking my car to Mumbai to meet my parents (of course, without letting them know about it). Having driven to Goa various times with friends, I gathered enough courage to drive solo to Goa from Pune. I had lot of apprehensions about executing this plan.
- The evening before, I went to a mechanic to understand the basics of the engine.
- I got all the tyres fixed and even learnt to jackup my car to change the wheel.
- I got up very early to target reaching Goa by afternoon, keeping enough time before dark for me if anything goes wrong on the way.
- I drove with the windshields rolled up and car locked all the way.
- I dressed modestly on the road trip.
- I didn't want to be noticed driving alone. I avoided taking any break on the way and landed in Goa after 7 hours of drive.
My first solo drive to Goa
Making car my home when I lived location independent
There came a stage in my life when I’d taken the biggest decision of my life of quitting my job as IT professional to give myself a chance to pursue my passions. I decided to take a break from work for a year and slow travel in Himalayas. I had started living minimalistic to have the freedom to move around easily. I donated most of my belongings, packed only what I needed into my car and drove all the way to Himalayas. Being location independent, I explored and lived in different parts of Himachal Pradesh. I had made my car my home. All my belonging were packed in my car for 1.5 years and I used them as and when required when I traveled to different places. I had the luxury of parking my home anywhere as per my comfort if I went on any trek or took flights for any other travels.
Living out of my i10 for 1.5 years in Himachal Pradesh
Solo driving in Himalayas
Once I realised my capabilities, I never wanted to stop. For my first drive to Himalayas, I had a guy by my side, to pacify my parents. The sheer hate of being dependent on anyone for my needs lead to me driving solo in the mountains. I still remember the day when I had encountered a huge bus on a single lane road with a steep valley on my side. I completely froze with the sight of valley on my side. I tried to reverse my car to give way to the bus, but I was just too scared, I requested the driver to reverse the bus and give me way. I practised and perfected those narrow roads looking down the valley where I didn't want to encounter any bus, and those sharp blind turns and got very comfortable with the scary sounding drives in the mountains. I traveled extensively in Himachal Pradesh and moved my base to 3-4 different places. I drove frequently to Delhi from Himachal Pradesh whenever I had to take flights to go to another destination. After living in Himalayas for 1.5 years, when I had to move to Mumbai to take up a job in adventure travel, I drove solo all the way from Tirthan Valley (Himachal Pradesh) to Mumbai covering 2000 km in 3 days, making sure I end my drive before dark everyday.
Off-roading my i10 in Himalayas
Feeling empowered as a woman while driving solo
Each time I took my car off on long road trips in the mountains, I felt intensely empowered. The feeling of being able to do something that every female is stopped from, made me bolder with each drive of mine. I eventually started getting comfortable with roads and people in Himachal Pradesh. I no longer felt worried if I had to take food and pee breaks on the way. I started off-roading my i10. I even learnt to drive my i10 on the snow-covered roads. My adventures of solo drives helped me build my confidence on many other things in life. I have never observed any female driving on the highways. And I feel glad I could break this myth in my own head.
Driving my i10 on the snow
Encouraging woman empowerment
The locals in the mountains trusted me with their sisters and wives whenever they needed a lift. The local community where women were never exposed to the idea of going out without any male, got comfortable in sending their ladies with me on short trips as well. Few mothers were happy sending their daughters with me on my morning jogs. The lady from my local family in Tirthan Valley would proudly tell me, “You can fail all men with your driving”. I would always consult the man in the family before taking my car on any new road to which he would say, “You have driven in entire India alone, why should you be scared of the roads here?”
My friends' parents and my relatives started trusting me with their daughters for any drive on highways. I wish they start trusting their own daughters someday.
My parents too have stopped questioning me and started showing confidence in my driving on seeing me safe and sound after my solo drives.
My sweetheart i10 has been the best travel companion of mine. Buying a car was one of the best decisions of my life. My car has seen places with me and I feel blessed to have taken those chances which I didn't want to regret later.
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My friends' parents and my relatives started trusting me with their daughters for any drive on highways. I wish they start trusting their own daughters someday.
My parents too have stopped questioning me and started showing confidence in my driving on seeing me safe and sound after my solo drives.
My sweetheart i10 has been the best travel companion of mine. Buying a car was one of the best decisions of my life. My car has seen places with me and I feel blessed to have taken those chances which I didn't want to regret later.
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Weekend getaways & adventures from Mumbai & Pune are most sought after by the corporate-infested city dwellers. Apart from its romantic weather, Pune had attracted me towards it by promising me a lifestyle I choose for myself. It had everything to offer from work opportunities, sports, dance, music, nightlife, friends, outdoor adventures. Having lived in Pune and Mumbai, I’ve had the chance to explore many destinations and adventures in the western ghats over weekends. Maharahstra’s long Konkan coastline hidden behind the Sahyadri range makes diversified landscapes. Monsoon and post monsoon are my favourite seasons to travel in this region as the clouds come down to kiss the lush green mountain range and beautiful streams of water adorn these mountains by making their way through them.
1. Kaas Plateau - Valley of Flowers
Kaas Plateau is Maharashtra’s very own valley of flowers. With over 850 varieties of flowers that bloom in the area of 10 sq. kms. across seasons, this biodiversity hotspot boasts as UNESCO World Heritage Natural Site. The most colourful site in the Sahyadris is full-blown right after the monsoons, towards the end of September. Located around 125km from Pune and 280 kms from Mumbai, towards Satara, Kass Plateau also known as Kaas Patthar in local language is a perfect weekend destination. Along with the valley of flowers, you can enjoy your time at the Thosegar waterfall and camp at the Kaas lake. Kaas Plateau is home to many endangered specie and it is responsibility of every visitor to protect them and avoid extinction.
Kaas Plateau / Kaas Patthar - Valley of Flowers
2. Hike to Lohagad Fort
One of the most popular monsoon destinations of Maharashtra is Lohagad Fort. Nature lovers of all ages from kids to senior citizens, are found hiking up to the beautiful fort on monsoon weekends. It is approachable from station called Malavali on Lonavala train route. You can start walking from the station itself, either by following the crowd or by asking the directions from locals. A simple hike of couple of hours takes you to the fort. Climb the stairs of the fort to get the beautiful top view of the fort. A further hike to the scorpion tail gives breathtaking views of the Sahyadri range. Carry enough rain covers if you are hiking in monsoons. On return, you can stop for home cooked local maharashtrian meal - zunka bhakhari and mutton. The residents of villages on the route serve food in their own homes. It is a short and sweet hike of half a day.
Hike to Lohagad Fort
3. Waterfall rappelling in Igatpuri
I had one of the most memorable experiences on monsoons in Sahyadris, when I had gone for waterfall rappelling. It is 15-20 minutes activity where you hike up to the waterfall from the backside and descend through the waterfall. There are climbing experts who organise these activities in monsoons when the waterfalls are in their best forms. It is quite challenging to navigate through the heavy fall of water when the rocks are slippery and the only sound you hear is that of the gushing waterfall. Vihigaon in Igatpuri has one of the best waterfalls suitable for rappelling.
Waterfall rappelling in Igatpuri
4. Trek to Rajmachi
Trekking in Sahyadris is a very popular activity in the monsoons. Rajmachi fort is one of the many historical forts in the Sahyadris. Rajmachi Fort consists of twin fortresses of Shriwardhan and Manaranjan. The hiking route to Rajmachi starts from Lonavla. It is very picturesque route and can be ideally done in 2 days. You can hike on 1st day, spend the night at one of the homestay on the top, explore the forts and descend the next day. The best attraction of the Rajmachi trek is the waterfall. The pair of waterfalls are one of the pristine falls I’ve ever seen.
Rajmachi waterfall
5. Camping in western ghats
Western Ghats make the best camping grounds for some fun-filled weekend. On one such monsoon weekends, I went on a long drive with my friends towards Tapola lake, found a perfect spot, pitched my tent and spent the evening witnessing the changing colours of the sky. We kept chatting for the entire night as we heard the rain pitter-patter on the roof of the tent. It was a great way to connect with my best buddies, as we were completely disconnected from everything else for the entire weekend.
Camping in Sahyadris
6. Drive to Konkan Beaches
I have made umpteen trips to the diverse stretches of Konkan beaches in Maharashtra - Kashid, Harihareshwar, Dapoli, Guhagar, Ratnagiri, Ganpatipule, Malvan, each offering its own uniqueness. While exploring the stretches, I’ve come across some pristine beaches which are unbelievable beautiful. Some beaches were so desolate that I could take my car to the beaches and drive through the splashing waves that were softly dousing the beach. Most of these beaches don’t have any fancy cafes or shacks. The offer very basic food and accommodation options and thats what helps them remain pristine.
Drive to Konkan beaches - Dapoli
7. Paragliding in Panchgani / Kamshet
I had my first paragliding flight in Panchgani, my first ever experience of spreading my wings and flying like a bird. The trained pilots take you on a tandem flight over the beautiful valley. It feels heavenly to appreciate the beauty of mother earth from 1000 feet high. The paragliding courses at Panchgani and Kamshet are already tempting me to learn to glide on my own.
Paragliding in Panchgani
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Everest Base Camp is the most popular trek in the world. The trekking route to Everest Base Camp is very well marked and well facilitated. Many companies organise Everest Base Camp trek, however this trek can be attempted as a self-supported trek or solo trek if you are an experienced trekker.
Route to Everest Base Camp:
The 12-day itinerary is generally the standard route followed for trekking to Everest Base Camp. This route ensures you gain height gradually to reduce the chances altitude sickness.
Day 01: Fly to Lukla (2800m) and Trek to Phakding (2660m) - 6 kms, 3 hours.
Day 02: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m) - 13 kms, 7 hours.
Day 03: Rest and acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar.
Day 04: Trek to Tengboche (3870m) - 11 kms, 6 hours
Day 05: Trek to Pheriche (4200m) or Dingboche (4410m) - 9kms, 5 hours.
Day 06: Rest and acclimatization day at Pheriche / Dingboche.
Day 07: Trek to Lobuche (4910m), 7 kms, 5 hours.
Day 08: Trek to Gorakshep (5160m) - 4.3 kms, 3 hours
Trek to EBC (5364m) - 3.7 kms, 2 hours and back to Gorakhshep 1 hours
Day 09: Steep ascend to Kalapatthar (5555m) - 2.4 kms, 2 hours and back to Gorakhshep 1 hour,
Trek to Pheriche / Dingboche - 11.3 kms, 5 hours.
Day 10: Trek to Namche Bazar (3440m) - 20 kms, 7 hours.
Day 11: Trek to Lukla (2800m) - 19 kms, 8 hours
Day 12: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
However, if you are already acclimatised (if you have done another high altitude trek just before attempting EBC), you can cut down on the acclimatisation days and can walk longer hours in the initial days. You can complete the trek in 5-6 days too, depending on your fitness, but be very careful when you choose to do this.
Also, keep 2-3 days extra when you plan Everest Base Camp Trek, as the flights to and fro Lukla are subject to weather conditions. The flights get delayed and cancelled very frequently.
Day 01: Fly to Lukla (2800m) and Trek to Phakding (2660m) - 6 kms, 3 hours.
Day 02: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m) - 13 kms, 7 hours.
Day 03: Rest and acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar.
Day 04: Trek to Tengboche (3870m) - 11 kms, 6 hours
Day 05: Trek to Pheriche (4200m) or Dingboche (4410m) - 9kms, 5 hours.
Day 06: Rest and acclimatization day at Pheriche / Dingboche.
Day 07: Trek to Lobuche (4910m), 7 kms, 5 hours.
Day 08: Trek to Gorakshep (5160m) - 4.3 kms, 3 hours
Trek to EBC (5364m) - 3.7 kms, 2 hours and back to Gorakhshep 1 hours
Day 09: Steep ascend to Kalapatthar (5555m) - 2.4 kms, 2 hours and back to Gorakhshep 1 hour,
Trek to Pheriche / Dingboche - 11.3 kms, 5 hours.
Day 10: Trek to Namche Bazar (3440m) - 20 kms, 7 hours.
Day 11: Trek to Lukla (2800m) - 19 kms, 8 hours
Day 12: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
However, if you are already acclimatised (if you have done another high altitude trek just before attempting EBC), you can cut down on the acclimatisation days and can walk longer hours in the initial days. You can complete the trek in 5-6 days too, depending on your fitness, but be very careful when you choose to do this.
Also, keep 2-3 days extra when you plan Everest Base Camp Trek, as the flights to and fro Lukla are subject to weather conditions. The flights get delayed and cancelled very frequently.
Route to Everest Base Camp
Difficulty Level of Everest Base Camp Trek
Difficult. The maximum height on this trek is 5360m for EBC and 5555m for Kala Patthar. These heights are not to be taken light. EBC is a long route and the hike to Kala Patthar is quite steep.
I would not recommend EBC trek for first time trekkers. Ideally one should have experienced 4500m to 5000m high-altitude treks before attempting Everest Base Camp.
I would not recommend EBC trek for first time trekkers. Ideally one should have experienced 4500m to 5000m high-altitude treks before attempting Everest Base Camp.
Steep hike to Kala Patthar at 5555m
Physical fitness required for Everest Base Camp Trek
Everest Base Camp Trek can get very exhaustive even for the seasoned trekkers, as one needs to walk very long distances everyday. Each day will take you through continuous ascends and descends before you reach your destination for the day.
It is advisable to follow regular workout routines including heavy cardio and strengthening for 1-2 months before the trek.
It is advisable to follow regular workout routines including heavy cardio and strengthening for 1-2 months before the trek.
Best time to trek to Everest Base Camp
April-May and October-November is considered to be the prime trekking season for EBC when the skies are generally clear and the views are fantastic.
If you want to avoid the crowd, you can consider trekking in late March, early June and early December. The weather might not be the best then, but it could be the best bet if you want to enjoy your "ME" time in the mountains.
If you want to avoid the crowd, you can consider trekking in late March, early June and early December. The weather might not be the best then, but it could be the best bet if you want to enjoy your "ME" time in the mountains.
Candid moments with the mountains on way to Lobuche, Everest Base Camp trek
Accommodation on Everest Base Camp Trek
There are countless tea houses on the EBC route. You will find tea houses at intermediate locations too. You can conveniently walk till your body allows you to, and the moment you want to stop, you should be able to find a tea house around.
The tea houses have single and double rooms with shared toilets and shower rooms and are available for NPR 250-500. These cheap rates come with a condition that you need to buy your meals in their restaurant. If you don't, they can charge you higher.
The tea houses have their own charges for hot shower, drinking water, wi-fi and charging and are very strict about all of it.
Amongst all these tea houses, there exists a chain of Lodges "Everest INN - Your Home in the Himalaya". They are currently operational in Lukla (Shangri-La), Phakding (Sherpa Eco-Home), Namche Bazaar (Hotel Everest) and Pheriche (White Yak) and are trying to mark their presence at other locations too. I found Everest INN to be the best lodges on the entire route as they lived upto their tagline of "Your Home in the Himalaya".
The tea houses have single and double rooms with shared toilets and shower rooms and are available for NPR 250-500. These cheap rates come with a condition that you need to buy your meals in their restaurant. If you don't, they can charge you higher.
The tea houses have their own charges for hot shower, drinking water, wi-fi and charging and are very strict about all of it.
Amongst all these tea houses, there exists a chain of Lodges "Everest INN - Your Home in the Himalaya". They are currently operational in Lukla (Shangri-La), Phakding (Sherpa Eco-Home), Namche Bazaar (Hotel Everest) and Pheriche (White Yak) and are trying to mark their presence at other locations too. I found Everest INN to be the best lodges on the entire route as they lived upto their tagline of "Your Home in the Himalaya".
- They don't charge extra for hot shower, drinking water and charging the gadgets.
- The wi-fi rates are very nominal compared to the other lodges.
- They provide fresh and healthy food with good portion size. It is a very important criteria as many restaurants on EBC disregard the fact that trekkers need fresh food to keep in good health. I had seen many trekkers falling ill due to stale food they had taken on their way.
- More importantly, the hosts and managers at these lodges welcome you with the widest smiles and actually make you feel at home. They go out of their way to cater to the need of their clients - a very rare attitude on the EBC route.
- Sherpa Eco-Home at Phakding has charging points even in the room, Hotel Everest at Namche Bazaar has attached toilets, White Yak at Pheriche has a sun-room which keeps you warm in the low temperatures, Shangri-La at Lukla is located right in front of the runway which gives you fantastic views of the flights landing and taking off.
Everest Inn - White Yak Lodge & Restaurant with sun room, Pheriche
Everest Inn - Room with attached toilet at Hotel Everest, Namche Bazaar
Food at tea houses on Everest Base Camp Trek
This could be one of the treks where it might get difficult for you to lose calories even when you walk more than 100 kms. The tea houses on Everest Base Camp route have proper restaurants with multi cuisine menus menus offer burgers, pizzas, parathas, daal bhat, macaroni, rosti, steaks, sizzlers, chowmein, choupsey, soups, salads and desserts on their menu.
I would suggest to avoid breads and meat after Namche Bazaar, as the higher altitudes don't have fresh supply of these items and the stale food can harm your health when digestion is anyways difficult at these altitudes.
I would suggest to avoid breads and meat after Namche Bazaar, as the higher altitudes don't have fresh supply of these items and the stale food can harm your health when digestion is anyways difficult at these altitudes.
Everest Inn - Restaurant at Sherpa Eco Home, Phakding
Evererst Inn - Sample menu at Hotel Everest, Namche Bazaar
Everest Inn - Nepali Breakfast Set at Hotel Everest, Namche Bazaar
Water on Everest Base Camp Trek
Tap water on Everest Base Camp is potable at least for the locals and Indians. However, you can buy filtered water for NPR 100-150 per litre and hot water for NPR 250-300 per litre from the tea houses. Mineral water bottles are equally expensive. Other option is to carry your own water filter and use the tap water. There are water purifying tablets too that can be carried.
I used the normal tap water and it was totally fine for my body.
I used the normal tap water and it was totally fine for my body.
Alcohol on Everest Base Camp Trek
Alcohol, specially beer, is available on the entire route on Everest Base Camp Trek. There are a lot of tempting pubs serving happy hours at Lukla and Namche Bazaar. The world's highest Irish Pub is at Namche Bazaar at the height of 3440m. I would strongly suggest you to celebrate only on your way back.
Worlds highest Irish Pub at Namche Bazaar, Everest Base Camp Trek
Phone and internet connectivity on Everest Base Camp Trek
Ncell network has good connectivity on the EBC route. You get signal and 3g connectivity till Pangboche. Ncell also works at Gorakshep, but this connection isn't very reliable.
Almost all the tea houses have wi-fi connectivity. They can charge you anything between NPR 200-500 for an hour. From Tengboche onwards Everest Link is the only internet connection available. This connection is very expensive, you need to buy wi-fi prepaid cards costing NPR 600 for 200MB data. You can use this card on the entire route as long as your data lasts, but only on 1 device.
Almost all the tea houses have wi-fi connectivity. They can charge you anything between NPR 200-500 for an hour. From Tengboche onwards Everest Link is the only internet connection available. This connection is very expensive, you need to buy wi-fi prepaid cards costing NPR 600 for 200MB data. You can use this card on the entire route as long as your data lasts, but only on 1 device.
Buying trekking gears for Everest Base Camp Trek
Thamel in Kathmandu has huge market for buying and renting trekking gears. You will be able to select from wide range of local to branded gears. Lukla and Namche Bazaar also have lot of shops selling from where you can buy and rent trekking gears at quite high rates. You would want to buy from there only in case of emergencies.
Permits required for Everest Base Camp Trek
You need 2 permits for trekking to Everest Base Camp:
1. Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS Card)
TIMS cards can be obtained from the offices of Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu and Pokhara, TAAN Secretariat at Maligaon and TAAN Pokhara Secretariat in Pokhara. You need passport and 2 photographs. TIMS Card fees: Group trekker: NPR 1000 and Free individual trekker: NPR 2000
For SAARC countries: Group trekker: NPR 300 and Free individual trekker: NPR 600
2. Sagarmatha National Park permit:
This permit can be obtained from the entrance point of the National park at Monjo.
Sagarmatha National Park fees: NPR 3390 per person per entry
For SAARC countries: NPR 1500 per person per entry
If you are trekking with any agency, they'll arrange these permits for you.
1. Trekkers Information Management System (TIMS Card)
TIMS cards can be obtained from the offices of Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu and Pokhara, TAAN Secretariat at Maligaon and TAAN Pokhara Secretariat in Pokhara. You need passport and 2 photographs. TIMS Card fees: Group trekker: NPR 1000 and Free individual trekker: NPR 2000
For SAARC countries: Group trekker: NPR 300 and Free individual trekker: NPR 600
2. Sagarmatha National Park permit:
This permit can be obtained from the entrance point of the National park at Monjo.
Sagarmatha National Park fees: NPR 3390 per person per entry
For SAARC countries: NPR 1500 per person per entry
If you are trekking with any agency, they'll arrange these permits for you.
AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) on Everest Base Camp
EBC trek is attempted by lot of people as it is the most popular trekking route in the world. Since it is commercialised and well facilitated trek, it is easy to attempt. But the altitude of Everest Base Camp (5300m) and Kala Patthar (5555m) needs to be taken seriously as lot of people tend to get hit with AMS on this route. The flat desert land at Gorakshep also calls for serious headache and AMS symptoms as well.
It is advisable to drink lot of water, eat healthy food, avoid junk food and alcohol, take proper rest on the trek and spend a couple of days acclimatising at the mentioned points on the route. Even then if you get hit with AMS, the only solution is to descend to lower altitudes ASAP. Many people take AMS light and take it to their ego to complete the trek and put their life at risk. Chopper evacuation is available at most of the places on the route, but it is subject to weather conditions. Always listen to your body on high altitude treks and if you feel discomfort, analyse the symptoms and take appropriate action.
It is advisable to drink lot of water, eat healthy food, avoid junk food and alcohol, take proper rest on the trek and spend a couple of days acclimatising at the mentioned points on the route. Even then if you get hit with AMS, the only solution is to descend to lower altitudes ASAP. Many people take AMS light and take it to their ego to complete the trek and put their life at risk. Chopper evacuation is available at most of the places on the route, but it is subject to weather conditions. Always listen to your body on high altitude treks and if you feel discomfort, analyse the symptoms and take appropriate action.
Rescue operation being carried out at Gorakshep
My take on solo trek to Everest Base Camp
The trail is broad and well marked. There are ample of tea houses on the way even between the stop points mentioned on the regular route. Food, water, shelter, directions and other facilities are so easily available on this route that it's very easy to trek all by yourself. All you need to carry is your clothes and water. You can carry only 2 pairs of clothes and wash them at the tea houses.
However, I would suggest to do this trek solo if and only if you have prior high-altitude trekking experience. Only if you understand the symptoms and seriousness of AMS, only if you can listen to your body and can totally rely on yourself in the worst situations. Don't expect the locals to help you on your way, everything is way too commercialised there.
Trekking with a company or an agency has many benefits over solo trekking:
1. They provide you with travel insurance that can be very helpful in case of rescue operations. (Please make sure that the company you are trekking with provides you with one).
2. They have tie ups with airlines and in case of flight cancellations at Lukla, they can smoothly help you for alternative flights in the coming days. If you are trekking alone, you need to carry this burden on your head all the time, be at the airport for first-come-first-serve boarding in case of rescheduling.
3. The experienced guides can help you in case of health issues or natural calamities.
4. Negligence can lead to spending more on solo trek than what the companies would charge. But make sure you go in smaller groups. Treks are enjoyed the best when the group size is small (8-10).
5. You don't need to take the overhead of arranging the permits as they would take care of it.
Whichever option you choose, make sure you are safe and totally ready for that.
Video showing entire route of Everest Base Camp & Kala Patthar
However, I would suggest to do this trek solo if and only if you have prior high-altitude trekking experience. Only if you understand the symptoms and seriousness of AMS, only if you can listen to your body and can totally rely on yourself in the worst situations. Don't expect the locals to help you on your way, everything is way too commercialised there.
Trekking with a company or an agency has many benefits over solo trekking:
1. They provide you with travel insurance that can be very helpful in case of rescue operations. (Please make sure that the company you are trekking with provides you with one).
2. They have tie ups with airlines and in case of flight cancellations at Lukla, they can smoothly help you for alternative flights in the coming days. If you are trekking alone, you need to carry this burden on your head all the time, be at the airport for first-come-first-serve boarding in case of rescheduling.
3. The experienced guides can help you in case of health issues or natural calamities.
4. Negligence can lead to spending more on solo trek than what the companies would charge. But make sure you go in smaller groups. Treks are enjoyed the best when the group size is small (8-10).
5. You don't need to take the overhead of arranging the permits as they would take care of it.
Whichever option you choose, make sure you are safe and totally ready for that.
Video showing entire route of Everest Base Camp & Kala Patthar
P.S. I had trekked with Explore Himalaya and stayed in the Everest Inn Lodges at Lukla, Phakding, Namche Bazaar and Pheriche.
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Everest Base Camp trek or the EBC trek as it is popularly known, was never in my checklist of treks. I had always imagined it to be too commercialised and crowded. However when I was in Nepal in June to attend the International Travel Bloggers and Media Conference, I wasn’t ready to leave the country without witnessing the glory of Nepal. Ofcourse I’m not ready to climb the Everest yet, but I had a strong desire to see the highest mountain on the planet - up, close and personal.
Khumbu Glacier at Everest Base Camp
Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
After my conference, I made a quick visit to Thamel to buy some gears that I needed for the trek and I flew to Lukla the next early morning. The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is known to be the most dangerous flights in the world. Lukla at the height of 2843m is the most dangerous airport with a tiny 527m long strip of runway. I was never too scared of these facts until I saw the locals bending down to pray for a safe flight before boarding. The 40-minute flight was a delight to my eyes as the little chartered flew between the snow clad mountains. The entire flying time kept me engaged as I felt close to the mountains even before I started trekking. The landing was very short and quick as the Lukla airport is at height.
Lukla, Nepal - world's most dangerous airport strip
Day 1: Lukla (2843m) to Phakding (2660m) - 6 kms, 3 hours
The anxiety about the trek was building up in my mind while having breakfast at the Shangri-La Lodge at Lukla. I had heard that it is a difficult trek, but never knew what makes it difficult. Keeping all the worries aside, I started walking through the market of Lukla. The first 40 minutes from Lukla was a descend through quaint villages, monasteries, chortens and zillions of lodges.
Mani stones on the way to Phakding - Everest Base Camp Trek
For a moment I thought I could rent out a home surrounded with radiant flowers and spend few months of doing nothing. The next 1 hour was almost a flat walk and then 80 minutes of gradual ascend. It took us 3 hours to reach Phakding. We checked in to Sherpa Eco-Home which had clean beds and toilets and a hot shower. The rest of the day required a good diet and a good sleep.
My mantra to keep fit on the trek - “Eat Right, Drink Right and Sleep Right”
Tea houses at Everest Base Camp trek
Day 2: Phakding (2660m) to Namche Bazaar (3440m) - 13 kms, 7 hours
Phakding to Namche Bazaar was a long day of 2 hours of gradual ascend and 5 hours of steep ascend, covering 13 kms. This day was very interesting as we entered the Sagarmatha National Park (Mt. Everest is known as Sagarmatha in Nepal). Out of the many suspension bridges built on the EBC route, I was eagerly waiting to cross my favourite one that leads to Namche Bazaar.
Suspension bridge on way to Namche Bazaar - Everest Base Camp Trek
Though I hated the commercialised part of the EBC route, I fell in love with the colourful town of Namche Bazaar. The mountains wrapped up the entire town and gave glamorous views at different hours of the day. The sight of golden mountains at the sunset was enough to energise me after a long tiring day. I stayed at Hotel Everest, which served the most delicious meal on the entire route.
Mountains shining golden at sunset at Namche Bazaar - Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 3: Acclimatisation day at Namche Bazaar
This day is extremely important to prepare your body for the higher altitudes in the coming days. Thanks to the digital nomad life I have been living, I had to carry my MacBook all the way to EBC to work on the assignments I had committed to before I planned EBC trek. After a long working day, I head out to explore the town. Namche Bazaar has a charming little monastery, vibrant market with shops selling essential trekking gears and souvenirs, bakeries serving freshly baked breads and cakes, lots of pubs offering happy hours and the topmost attraction being World’s highest Irish Pub at 3440m. However tempting these pubs sound, I would recommend to celebrate only on return.
Shopping market at Namche Bazaar - Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 4: Namche Bazaar (3440m) to Tengboche (3870m) - 11.3 kms, 6 hours
I hiked up from Namche Bazaar for around 20 minutes and my guide pointed at a mountain and called it Mt. Everest. I first didn’t believe him, but when I looked closely, it stood there with pride, radiating unbelievable energy. I couldn’t believe I saw the tallest mountain of the world. The first sight of the majesty Everest was so emotional and inspirational that I felt tears in my eyes and the desire to climb higher.
First view of Mount Everest ahead of Namche Bazaar - Everest Base Camp Trek
All my calculations were failing on EBC route. It was only 400m of height again today, but the route was extremely tiring and long. It took 20 mins of ascend, followed by 2 hours of gradual flat walk, followed by 40 mins of descend and finally 2 hours of steep climb to reach Tengboche. Tengboche welcomed us with artisitic wooden prayer wheels and the largest monastery of the Khumbu region. I missed out the magnificent panoramic views of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam from my room as they were all hiding beneath the clouds.
Largest monastery of Solu Khumbu region at Tengboche - Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 5: Tengboche (3870m) to Pheriche (4200m) - 9 kms, 5 hours
Another long day started with half and hour descend through the rhododendron forests and then gradual and steep climbs of 4.5 hours. The weather went bad this day and we hiked in snowfall through the fog. It was a good relief from the hot days.
Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 6: Acclimatisation day in Pheriche
Yet another extremely important day to prepare the body for the 5000m+ altitudes in the coming days. I again got chance to catch up on my pending work while I enjoyed the views from the dining room of the lodge. I also took a small acclimatisation hike up the mountains. The hosts at the White Yak Lodge made me feel at home with their warm hospitality.
Acclimatisation hike in Pheriche - Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 7: Pheriche (4200m) to Lobuche (4930m) - 7 kms, 5 hours
Today’s hike took me through heavenly landscapes of yaks grazing in the meadows.
Yaks grazing on the meadows near Pheriche - Everest Base Camp Trek
and the stone huts of nomads just after Pheriche.
Stone huts of Nomads near Pheriche - Everest Base Camp Trek
After crossing the suspension bridge to Thukla, a steep hike took us to the Lobuche pass adorned with strings of colourful prayer flags. There is Khagan chorten, a cemetery ground with hundreds of cairn memorials for those who died on the mountain. After 5 hours of gradual and steep ascend, we rested at a lodge in Lobuche.
Prayer Flags at Lobuche Pass - Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 8: Lobuche (4930m) to Gorakshep (5130m) - 4.3 kms, 3 hours
The real test of EBC starts from here as you cross the height of 5000m, walk long hours from Lobuche to Gorakshep, Gorakshep to EBC and back to Gorakshep and wake up in the wee hours the next day for the toughest climb of the entire trek to Kala Patthar. This route was heavenly as I got closer to the panorama of highest peaks in the world. Khumbu glacier started appearing to make the views more attractive.
Mount Nuptse on way to Gorakshep - Everest Base Camp Trek
Gorakshep (5130m) to Everest Base Camp (5340m): 3.7 kms, 2 hours
Gorakshep is the last stop point for the ones trekking to Everest Base Camp. EBC is on the Khumbu glacier where the climbers attempting the summit setup their base camp. It is at 2 hours of gradual ascend from Gorakshep. I trekked to EBC after the climbing season when the campsite was empty which otherwise looks like an international carnival ground. Everest Base Camp is a plethora of stories and emotions. I found a note there saying "Dad, I Miss You" and I imagined all sorts of stories behind it.
Everest Base Camp
I spent some of the most exciting moments at the magical Khumbu glacier. The irony is that Mount Everest isn’t visible from the EBC. The most beautiful things come with their own price tags. One needs to climb to Kala Patthar for the views. I returned to my lodge at Gorakshep and prepared myself for the early morning climb to Kala Patthar.
Khumbu Glacier at Everest Base Camp
Day 9: Gorakshep (5130m) to Kala Patthar (5555m): 2.4 kms, 2 hours
I started at 4am to be able to reach Kala Patthar during sunrise. It was a very steep climb and difficult climb and the weather was unpredictable as the mountains were playing hide-n-seek in the clouds. Luckily I got a clear view of the peaks when I made it up to the top of Kala Patthar. There I saw the Mount Everest again - up, close and personal.
Mount Everest and Mount Nuptse as seen on the way to Kala Patthar
Kala Patthar is a small mountain in the middle of the 360 degrees panoramic high altitude mountains. Standing on Kala Patthar actually made me feel incomplete, it just made me crave for more heights.
After I was done with relishing the mountains, I descended to Gorakshep, picked up my backpack and started descending towards Pheriche.
Panoramic views of the himalayas from Kala Patthar
The next 2 days I retraced my steps to Lukla, this time covering twice the distance in a day. The way back to Lukla was continuous ascends and descends, just the way it was while going towards EBC.
Day 10: Pheriche to Namche Bazaar
The skies were clear and gave fantastic views of Everest till Tengboche. Namche Bazaar’s vibe called for a celebration of a successful trek with Everest beers on the table.
Mount Everest view from Tengboche - Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 11: Namche Bazaar to Lukla
This was the first trek which ended with an ascend. The last stretch to Lukla was actually an ascend, exhausting the every ounce of energy in me.
Ascend to Lukla - Everest Base Camp Trek
Day 12: Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
The host at Shangri-La lodge at Lukla offered a khata (traditional ceremonial scarf in Tibetan Buddhism) around my neck and bid us farewell and safe journey back home. As we walked down to the airport, the sudden overcast caused us waiting for our flight for 4 hours. When I landed at Kathmandu, I felt difficult to acclimatise in the plains, yet again!
Ending Everest Base Camp Trek at Shangri-La Lodge
I must confess that I had under-estimated the potential of Everest Base Camp trek. Though I stayed in lodges, had fancy meals and daal bhat in restaurants, pampered myself with hot-showers and was connected to wi-fi on the trek, EBC trek turned out to be a unique and glamorous experience for me. More so, because I trekked in the off-season and I could get immersed in the culture of the Solu Khumbu region and enjoy my solitude with the mountains.
Nepal you are right - “Once is not enough". I wish to build strong ties with you, mainly because you are home to 8 out of 14 8000m+ peaks of the Himalayas!
Video showing entire route of Everest Base Camp & Kala Patthar Trek
P.S. I had trekked with Explore Himalaya and stayed in the Everest Inn Lodges at Lukla, Phakding, Namche Bazaar and Pheriche.
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Author
Namaste! I'm Medhavi Davda.
I travel to Evolve..
In Nature, I confide..
I find my calling in the Himalayas..
In the Oceans, I meditate..
A High-Altitude Trekker & PADI certified SCUBA Diver, I love exploring the heights and depths of the planet with my regular doses of mountains and oceans.
Discovering myself & life through nature, adventures, travels, sports and dance has been an addiction since my existence!
Quite fond of the natural & cultural diversity of India, I've travelled extensively in my own country before exploring international destinations.
I had left my 9+ yrs of career in Software Industry in a quest to make a living out of my passions. I packed my basics in my car (gave away the rest) and lived in different parts of Himachal Pradesh for 16 months. This invaluable experience of my taught me to observe life from a broader perspective.
I'm currently living in Mumbai to work with an Adventure Travel company as a product manager for Scuba Diving. I continue living a minimalistic life.
I travel to Evolve..
In Nature, I confide..
I find my calling in the Himalayas..
In the Oceans, I meditate..
A High-Altitude Trekker & PADI certified SCUBA Diver, I love exploring the heights and depths of the planet with my regular doses of mountains and oceans.
Discovering myself & life through nature, adventures, travels, sports and dance has been an addiction since my existence!
Quite fond of the natural & cultural diversity of India, I've travelled extensively in my own country before exploring international destinations.
I had left my 9+ yrs of career in Software Industry in a quest to make a living out of my passions. I packed my basics in my car (gave away the rest) and lived in different parts of Himachal Pradesh for 16 months. This invaluable experience of my taught me to observe life from a broader perspective.
I'm currently living in Mumbai to work with an Adventure Travel company as a product manager for Scuba Diving. I continue living a minimalistic life.
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