Offbeat Goa: Portuguese heritage colony in Fontainhas

A heritage walk in Fontainhas, the Portuguese colony of Goa, was a journey back in time. It gave me a sense of appreciation for the passion of the state to keep the legacy alive. Goa has a history of being ruled by various empires which resulted into a rare cultural heritage influenced by Indians, Mughals and Catholic Portuguese which reflects in the lifestyle of Goans.
Fontainhas is a heritage colonial quarter in the centre of Panjim, where the influential Portuguese rulers lived. The Portuguese style old villas and buildings with overhanging balconies in the narrow and winding lanes reflect the old European architecture. The blue, yellow and green coloured houses make up a vibrant and cheerful locality.

The Portuguese heritage colonial quarter, Fontainhas, Goa

Roosters on top of Portuguese houses in Goa

It is very easy to identify the Portuguese houses. All Portuguese houses have a bright coloured rooster on the top. Rooster is a national symbol of Portugal which symbolises honesty, integrity, trust and honour. Every Portuguese is supposed to have this on top of their houses to bring them good luck.

Balcões in Portuguese houses in Goa

It is customary for the houses to have covered porches called Balcões and verandahs facing the streets. These Balcões have a built-in seating area for people to chat with neighbours and enjoy the evening breeze  and for men and women to sit together and see eachother. The rich owners used this place to have conversations with people from lower classes, keeping a barrier to entry in the house. ​

The Balcões in Portuguese houses, Fontainhas, Goa

Statues of soldier on top of houses in Goa

Some houses in Goa have statues of soldiers on the top. This signifies that the house belonged to a freedom fighter.

Statues of soldiers on top of Portuguese houses in Goa

Oyster Shells windows in Portuguese houses in Goa

The houses have large ornamental windows made of timber that open in the streets or the verandah. The glass panes were replaced by oyster shells that were found extensively on beaches. The flat ones were shaped and slipped between grooved wooden battens to be installed into windows. Oyster shells kept the houses cool from the tropical heat of this region. The quality of light which passed through these openings gave the houses a very special ambiance.

Oyster Shells windows in Portuguese houses in Goa

High plinths and grand staircases of Portuguese houses in Goa

The houses of rich landlords had high plinths with grand staircases leading to the front door or Balcão. The higher plinths reflects grandeur, a high status. The name plates in the houses were uniformly designed with blue and white colours.

High plinths and grand staircases of Portuguese houses in Goa

Coloured wash on Portuguese houses in Goa

The coloured wash on the houses looked decorative and was a sign of economic well-being. During Portuguese rule the owner of the house was fined if his house was not painted. Till date, the houses are freshly painted every year.

The colourful Portuguese houses in Goa

Heritage house with a wishing well in Fontainhas, Goa

One of the heritage houses in Fontainhas has a bright red coloured wishing well with roosters mounted on it. It's a peaceful place to read a book or spend time with your self  by enjoy the evening breeze. 
Goans are art-loving people. Here, you may find someone playing violin or guitar in their verandahs overlooking the streets.

Heritage house with a wishing well in Fontainhas, Goa

Chapel of St Sebastian in Fontainhas, Goa

There is a well preserved Chapel of St Sebastian in one end of Fontainhas. The traditional annual street festivals used to be held here.

Chapel of St Sebastian in Fontainhas, Goa

Heritage houses turned into guest houses in Fontainhas, Goa

Some old heritage houses have been turned in lodges and guest houses. This is the best place to stay in Goa  to experience Portuguese lifestyle and heritage. I now know where to stay, the next time I land up in Goa.

Heritage houses turned into guest houses in Fontainhas, Goa

Heritage houses restored to cafes and hotels in Fontainhas, Goa 

Few Portuguese heritage homes in Fontainhas are converted to exotic cafes with bakeries and luxury hotels. 

Heritage houses restored to cafes and hotels in Fontainhas, Goa

These hotels have preserved the antique art and interior works of the Portuguese era. I was very impressed with their unique styled furniture, paintings and artefacts.

Heritage houses restored to cafes and hotels in Fontainhas, Goa

Art lovers and Architecture students in Fontainhas, Goa

There are a couple of art galleries in Fontainhas, which are frequented by art and architecture students who come to learn about the ancient architecture of Goa. Fontainhas Art Festival is organised here every year for a week when the historic houses are turned into galleries. The residents of these houses display their artworks, unique architectural features of their balconies, and furnishings in their dining halls.  

Architecture students on the streets in Fontainhas, Goa

Fountain of Phoenix at Fontainhas. Goa

Fountain of Phoenix is a small natural spring that lies at the end of Fontainhas. The name Fontainhas is said to be drived from the Fountain of Phoenix (Fonte Phoenix). The surroundings of this spring are under renovation. The source of this spring is not known.

Fountain of Phoenix at Fontainhas. Goa

Confluence of Hindus, Mughals & Catholics in Fantainhas, Goa

Just next to the Fountain of Phoenix, there are two tomb like structures. A few steps up on the hill there's Maruti (Hanuman) temple, the glittering structure on the right-most corner of the image below. 

Maruti temple, tombs and tunnel with cross in Fontainhas, Goa

There's a underground tunnel between the two tombs that has been recently discovered. The entrance to that tunnel is found near the spring of Phoenix. I walked down the steps and waded through the waters inside the tunnel. I found a cross at the end of the tunnel. This is exactly below the second tomb. The Goans are quite surprised to have confluence of three different religions at a single point.

The cross in the tunnel in Fontainhas, Goa

Our Lady of the Immaculate conception Church, Panjim, Goa

I walked half a km more to end my heritage walk at the Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church in Panjim. This bright white painted church stood tall and glittering with the surrounding lights in the dark.

Our Lady of the Immaculate conception Church, Panjim, Goa in night

Few more places of interest in Goa to learn about the traditional cultures and lifestyles of Goa

I was quite impressed to see few passionate Goans who took a stand to live in Goa and contribute to preserving the traditions of Goa in some way. They believe in preserving the past to enrich the future.

Ancestral Goa, BigFoot Museum, Loutolim

Maendra J. A. Alvares, an Artist and Sculptor from Goa has put tremendous efforts to preserve the dying quirks of Goan lifestyle through Ancestral Goa, also known as BigFoot museum in Loutolim. The various facets of life of Goans is beautifully depicted here in form of statues.

Spanish + Portuguese architecture at Ancestral Goa, Bigfoot museum, Loutolim

Goa Chitra Museum, Benaulim

Victor Hugo Gomes, a restorer by profession, has founded Goa Chitra museum as a tribute to his ancestors and to their way of life using age-old wisdom passed down through generations. It is an unique collection and display of traditional farming implements and other ancient tools of trade set up against the backdrop of a traditional organic farm.

Traditional Goan artefacts at Goa Chitra Museum, Benaulim

Traditional Goan artefacts at Goa Chitra Museum, Benaulim

The Goan style cottages

It was a delightful experience to stay in the Goan style vibrant cottages at Miramar Residency - a GTDC resort, located in Panjim. Fontainhas is just 4km away from here. Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, Chorao Island is easily approachable from here (8 km to Ribandar Jetty and 10-15 minutes boat ride to the Island).

Goan cottages at Miramar Residency

P.S. I was invited by Goa Tourism Board for this trip.
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Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, Chorao Island, Goa

Goa Tribal Festival